Enclosed underbelly question

[Camper76]

Dealer called me they have 2017 29qbsw slx with enclosed belly. Another dealer called they have 2018 without enclosed. Between the two it's not much price difference. The 18 they will go have with me on the slide topper and less with the new hitch setup. What does everyone think

[westend]

Yeah, there is a lot that can be done with enclosing the under belly. Is it Forum member LarryJM (?) that has the pictures of his work in that area? He really did a great job planning out and installing everything, leaving some panels for access points in case repair was needed later. Really, common sense will get a lot of the design done.

About the foam board: This type of insulation is really a godsend for the DIY'er. It cuts easily and is light, doesn't hardly absorb moisture, and, if installed right, puts a lot of insulation value into a small space. I have it installed throughout my old Starcraft and I think making sure there are no gaps for air convection is one secret. FWIW, if I close all the windows in the morning on a 90f day, the trailer will only heat to 75f by noon or so. The same works for heating. One 1500W space heater is more than enough to heat at below freezing.

[Huntindog]

campigloo wrote:
Westend, I never thought about using the foam board for insulation. I'm gonna try it on mine. Great idea!

I did mine a little different. Home depot sells an insulation board made out of polyisocronate (sp). 1"=R7. I used this inside the frame rails and directly above the coroplast. I basically made the entire underbelly insulated from the out side. Then I cut an additional heat vent into the underbelly. So that entire area can be heated. I also wrapped all of the water lines with heat tape and insulation. All of this made a huge difference. I should have running water down to 40 below. Have not had the opportunity to test that, but the floors are noticeably warmer in single digits, and propane use is much less. So much that I think it may have offset the cost of the mods already.

I found some really good deals on the heat tape on ebay that helped with the cost.

[campigloo]

Westend, I never thought about using the foam board for insulation. I'm gonna try it on mine. Great idea!

[westend]

I'd suggest to get your best price and make a commitment to either get under the trailer yourself or hire someone to straighten out wiring and ducts, insulate, reinforce tank straps, and install a covering on the belly.

An owner can get a much better result underneath than a factory, in most cases. After the sale, you can design/upgrade the under-belly to your desires and your need for access.

Just a few upgrades off the top: Reinforce tank attachments to carry weight of full tanks, insulate with foam board and batt insulation for comfort, dress/route wires for OEM operation and any future electric use, insulate heat ducts, route brake wiring in a "star" config.

I've actually done this using 2" foam board and Luan sheet goods. The Luan board was sealed thoroughly with paint before installation. The increase in comfort was big, no more cool floors. Foam board was glued/sprayed into place and the Luan was installed with flanged screws, into blocking, if needed.

[Bumpyroad]

do you plan on keeping it a long time where one year older won't really matter for resale value?
bumpy

[rbpru]

Floor plan, tow vehicle capacity and cost; if the TT satisfies all three, covered floor makes little difference.

[Old-Biscuit]

coolmom42 wrote:
I really don't see the benefit of an enclosed underbelly. I prefer to have easy access and be able to see any problems readily.

FT it was a benefit.....cause we got caught in -19*F temps and that heated enclosed underbelly was GREAT!


Besides....it makes rig so much more aerodynamic and improved our mileage :W :R

[SoundGuy]

JMO, but having owned 2 trailers with an enclosed underbelly and now our current trailer without I far prefer no underbelly. Access to anything when it's enclosed is a major PITA, when it's open you can run cables, hoses, etc, with no effort at all.



Open up an enclosed underbelly and you're sure to find wires and hoses run haphazardly all over the place, with little to secure them other than the underbelly itself. The few cables and hoses running along the underside of my current Coachmen are properly dressed and tied in place. As far as extreme cold or hot weather camping is concerned I haven't noticed any real difference at all between having an enclosed underbelly or not in temps between freezing and 100F. Claims that an enclosed underbelly makes for more efficient towing is just "sales speak" and offers no advantage at all.

[coolmom42]

I really don't see the benefit of an enclosed underbelly. I prefer to have easy access and be able to see any problems readily.

[bobndot]

x3 floorplan for sure.
Every time you have to access anything that's under the trailer, the underbelly has to be removed. Just be prepared to do that or pay someone to do it.

[campigloo]

Don't know the cost but I wouldn't think that material is that expensive. It comes in whatever length you want and it's held up with self drilling screws and fender washers. High tech heat system consists of a few slits in the duct work made of flexible dryer hose, at least that's how mine is put together. If the only thing keeping you from buying the 18 model just add it later. The dealer may even give you the material to make the deal.

[Lwiddis]

There are times I wish I didn't have an enclosed underbelly.

[epeters]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
Pick the 'floorplan' you really like

x2

If they are the same floorplan, then ask yourself if you will really camp in weather where an enclosed underbelly will make a difference or not.

I've had my current trailer for just over 10 years and the tanks are exposed and have had zero issues. Even camped a couple times right around the freezing mark. Otherwise, I always keep the tanks and lines drained in the winter months. No issues traveling, but I don't do off road either.

[Old-Biscuit]

Pick the 'floorplan' you really like