Fridge operation when not level

[leatherhead612]

We are nose high on our site. Set up in the dark on a downhill site. Does the fridge have problems cooling only on lp if the site is not level, or if hooked up to shore power as well?
Will try to get more level in the am. Thanks in advance

[ksg5000]

Ralph Cramden wrote:
3 degrees side to side of the fridge. On a 30' long rig with the fridge backed up against the sidewall 3 degrees out would mean the rig is 18" higher on one end. Did anyone ever try sleeping, or even walking in a 30' rig that's 18" out of level front to back lol.

First time I actually did the math on my rig I quickly determined that if it's comfortable enough to camp in it's likely within the mfg specs.

[Lwiddis]

“Also make sure when leveling you're setting the level on the inside of the freezer.”

I do that once on each RV, Vintage, to calibrate the easy to see outside level indicators.

[Chris_Bryant]

ScottG wrote:
Can the ARP temp probe be installed through the rear cover or do you need to pull the ridge?

You may have to pull it a bit, just enough to open the flue cover, but it doesn't have to come out completely, just a few inches, at most.

[Jayco-noslide]

I don't think it matters if you're plugged in or on propane. One piece of advise was- If it's close enough to level to be comfortable to live in, it's OK. We've followed that (our sites are usually not perfectly level) and so far our refrig. in 2 units over 15 years have functioned perfectly. If we park short term,( such as to have lunch) and it's really uncomfortably unlevel, I shut off the frig. until we resume. What is "comfortable" could vary a lot. However, we are pretty picky. If the doors fly open or shut, etc. we would use our leveler blocks. Error on the side of caution.

[ScottG]

Can the ARP temp probe be installed through the rear cover or do you need to pull the ridge?

[LarryJM]

Chris Bryant wrote:
Do yourself a favor and install an ARP Control on your refrigerator, and you won't have to worry about it.

Agree 1000% and it should be installed along with the frig initially.

Larry

[2oldman]

leatherhead612 wrote:
Seems to be cooling fine, its down to 46 degrees and dropping.

Newer RVs should be fine as long as it's level enough to live in. I make a point of being as level as possible. New fridges are expensive and a hassle.

[Lynnmor]

SoundGuy wrote:

Lynnmor wrote:
It is not about operating so much, it is about destroying the cooling system. It must be within 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back.

That assumes the fridge is mounted along one side of the trailer ... mine isn't, it sits along the rear wall of the trailer.

I wasn't assuming anything, I was talking about the refrigerator.

If one has a smartphone, a free level app is available to display degrees.

Don't use refrigerator shelves to level an RV, use the frame under the RV. The cooling coils are screwed to the rear of the refrigerator case. If you are concerned about how level the refrigerator might be, simply check the side and front of the case.

[SoundGuy]

Lynnmor wrote:
It is not about operating so much, it is about destroying the cooling system. It must be within 3 degrees side to side and 6 degrees front to back.

That assumes the fridge is mounted along one side of the trailer ... mine isn't, it sits along the rear wall of the trailer. My solution is simple - I only run the fridge when the trailer is level front-to-back and side-to-side, even turn it off when we arrive at the campground and leave it off until I'm parked & leveled on-site. When returning home I turn it off when I pull up to the house, before I begin the process of parking on our noticeably sloped driveway. If we're traveling and stop midday for awhile I'll also turn the fridge off until we're ready to leave. It may be overkill but it's a technique that's worked well for me for years with several different fridges in several different trailers - no problems at all. :B

[Ralph_Cramden]

3 degrees side to side of the fridge. On a 30' long rig with the fridge backed up against the sidewall 3 degrees out would mean the rig is 18" higher on one end. Did anyone ever try sleeping, or even walking in a 30' rig that's 18" out of level front to back lol.

[Chris_Bryant]

Do yourself a favor and install an ARP Control on your refrigerator, and you won't have to worry about it.

[bobndot]

Initially when I buy a new trailer , I place a bubble level inside the freezer and use a mirror to view it. Once i find the level mark, i install a 2 way level (N-S-E-W) on the front driver side corner of my TT, located so I can view it in my trucks side-view mirror. That way , while pulling into a site, i can see if my TT tires are level by looking in my mirror. Once I unhitch, I then only have to adjust my jack to make it level front to rear. The below style level has 2 bubbles for side to side and front to rear leveling.
https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Wheel-Masters-RV-Bubble-Level-p/03-0198.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjwyvXPBRD-ARI...

If your fridge is located on the driver side or passenger side of your TT, then front to rear leveling is important 3 degrees because the fridge tubes run right/left as you're looking at it .

If the fridge happens to be located on a rear wall, then right to left leveling is the important method to level it. Use of leveling blocks under the tires is more important.

[Vintage465]

Also make sure when leveling you're setting the level on the inside of the freezer. That's where all the action is. Once you know where the "important level" is, then you can set the other levels on your trailer based on that one. Seems like older fridges were more inclined to vapor lock when running off level. And yes, front to back was more finicky than side to side. When I worked at my dad's RV shop we would take out at least one unit a month, turn it over on it's head for 24 hrs. Then fire it up on gas to make sure it worked before re-installing it. It does seem like the newer units just get damaged and not locked up like the oldies.

[Old-Biscuit]

Off level causes OVERHEATING due to lack of gravity low of coolant

Sodium chromate (anti-rust inhibitor in the coolant solution) will crystallize when overheating occurs.
The crystals plate out on the inside of cooling unit tubing......permanently.

Bouncing down the road will NOT cause them to go back into solution....done is done

Operating while in transit does not cause this issue of overheating cause the coolant flow is in constant motion from the rock/roll/bounce of the RV.

20 minutes of off level operation (stationary) where the coolant gravity flow is disrupted is enough to cause the crystals to form.
Damage is accumulative over time