Frontal area for travel trailers

[Lakama]

I have a 2016 Nissan Frontier 4 cyl 2WD and want to tow a Jayco that weighs 2300 # with a frontal area of 63 square ft. Any ideas about the feasibility of this? The owner's manual states a limit of 30 square ft frontal area. Only a pop up would meet this criteria. Any advice?

[2012Coleman]

Lakama wrote:
What do you think of this plan - we get a transmission cooler and temperature gauge, then test drive the trailer we want (63 sq ft frontal area vs the 30 sq ft limit)? Our truck is 152 hp, automatic transmission, 2 WD, 4 cylinder. The trailer weighs 2400#, our gear and passengers weigh 500# and the limit for this vehicle is 3500#. We will drive below the speed limit.
If the transmission heats up on the test drive, we'll go for a popup with a frontal area nearer the recommendation.

what limit are you referring to - tow capacity?

Know anything about payload? Is there a sticker in the door jamb that says something like total weight of cargo and occupants not to exceed xxxx lbs?

What is the model/make/year of TT and the make/year truck?

Does it have a hitch receiver? Is there a weight limit stamped on it?

What kind of tires does it have?

[Perrysburg_Dodg]

I towed right at the limit with my 2002 Ram 1500 4.7 3.92 and it was not a fun time at all (about 800# over the rating). The truck did it but it was also taking all it had to do it. All you are doing if you have to push your vehicle to the limits is kill it in very short order.

As for not having to worry about over heating a manual trans you might want to rethink that stance. You can over heat a manual easier then an auto and you will not even know you are doing it!

Don

[brulaz]

Lakama wrote:
What do you think of this plan - we get a transmission cooler and temperature gauge, then test drive the trailer we want (63 sq ft frontal area vs the 30 sq ft limit)? Our truck is 152 hp, automatic transmission, 2 WD, 4 cylinder. The trailer weighs 2400#, our gear and passengers weigh 500# and the limit for this vehicle is 3500#. We will drive below the speed limit.
If the transmission heats up on the test drive, we'll go for a popup with a frontal area nearer the recommendation.

Sounds good to me. But, as already suggested, test it hard under worst case conditions, like on a day with good headwinds. Then decide.

Make sure you have a good anti-sway hitch dialled in and the trailer brakes are working properly.

Awareness of your tow vehicle's limitations is smart. And sometimes you just have to make do.

If you do go this route, however, I see a tranny rebuild sooner rather than later in your future. May want to up the frequency of tranny flushes too.

[Walaby]

I don't think a test drive is going to show you much, unless you test drive for an extended period of time, freeway and backroads, hills etc..

I just don't see this combination as being anywhere close to a comfortable drive. And I honestly do not see a test drive as giving you enough information to feel good about driving it. But, what the heck... Go for it, and if you end up not happy, sell the trailer (likely at a loss), or buy a bigger truck.

Mike

[Lakama]

What do you think of this plan - we get a transmission cooler and temperature gauge, then test drive the trailer we want (63 sq ft frontal area vs the 30 sq ft limit)? Our truck is 152 hp, automatic transmission, 2 WD, 4 cylinder. The trailer weighs 2400#, our gear and passengers weigh 500# and the limit for this vehicle is 3500#. We will drive below the speed limit.
If the transmission heats up on the test drive, we'll go for a popup with a frontal area nearer the recommendation.

[rjstractor]

To add my two cents again, I used to tow pretty much the same weight and frontal area with just 102 hp. It maintained 60 mph on the freeway easily (although it took a little while to get there), and 45 over the mountain passes of Washington. The main difference is that I did not have an automatic transmission and so didn't have to worry about trans temperatures. I don't know a thing about the trans your truck uses, but a cooler would certainly help.

[Grit_dog]

Last post wouldn't post up.
I say we start reccomending towing a big trailer with a compact pickup. You know reverse psych......since reccomendations not to don't be sinking in!

[Walaby]

I think you've gotten good advice here. Predominant theme is this is not a good match. At the end of the day, only you can make the decision. It seems like you are trying to rationalize that it will work. You obviously have doubts, or you wouldn't pose the question.

My input - follow the manufacturer's recommendation, which is validated by the majority of reponses here. You certainly will find SOMEONE who say's it will work. Your decision to either follow that lone voice, or the voice of many.

Mike

[BenK]

Watch it only will be telling after most of the damage is done...

Hottest point/area and is where the heat is generated...is in the TC and at the edges of the vanes

ATF temp senors are normally NOT there, but elsewhere in the tranny assembly. Where the ultimate temp is no longer, but muted by thermal mass and fluid dilution. That is part of the heat rejection management system...which is the main engine radiator and maybe an external Aux ATF cooler

The damage will be in nibbles over time/miles. Initially not noticeable and will be an ever increasing issue

By the time the temp is noticeable...already too late and maybe watch it fail out in the boonies somewhere

Not just temp of the ATF, but the ATF's ability to lube the various parts well...as the temp increases up to the ATF OEM's max temp spec...its ability to lube is less and less until there isn't enough lube specification to do the job. By overloading, the engineered margins are reduced...meaning that most folks do NOT know that proper gear lube is engineered to have a layer/film of lube between mating gear teeth...and a ditto for bearings. They are NOT supposed to go metal to metal when the ATF and the rest of the gear box is used within spec...

Have no skin in my advice provided...just have to sleep at night...rarely say 'no'...just provide info for the OPs to make up their own risk management decision(s)...AKA gambling...

[patperry2766]

You maybe, might, possible, fingers crossed be able to make a Forest River RPod of Jayco Hummingbird work.

Or either a hard-sided pop-up camper like the Flagstaff or Rockwood.

You're trying really hard to make a square peg fit in a round hole.

[drsteve]

I think you're grasping at straws, to be honest. Even if it was OK on a calm day, what happens when there's a strong headwind? Even side winds cause increased aerodynamic resistance. If the truck was capable of this, you can bet Nissan would be crowing about their little truck having big truck muscle. But they aren't.

If you decide to buy this trailer, I see a new truck in your future.

[Lakama]

What do you all think of a transmission temperature gauge being used on a test drive of the TT and my Nissan Frontier to determine if the frontal area causes too much strain on the transmission. If I keep the temp below 200 degrees do you think I am safe with towing a large frontal area? Of course, I will not be able to go 70 mph, but any other considerations I should know about?

[drsteve]

The 2.5L 4 has 150 HP. You need to either go with a popup, or buy a new truck.

[blt2ski]

I believe, do not quote me, but the new tow specs are probably 30 square ft per sae, 60 for full sized rigs.
Reality is, if this is the case, EVERYONE is over ratings!

Martu

[Perrysburg_Dodg]

Lakama wrote:
I have a 2016 Nissan Frontier 4 cyl 2WD and want to tow a Jayco that weighs 2300 # with a frontal area of 63 square ft. Any ideas about the feasibility of this? The owner's manual states a limit of 30 square ft frontal area. Only a pop up would meet this criteria. Any advice?

Since that trailer is just over double the manufactures rating the answer in No it is not feasible. Unless you want to destroy your vehicle. Your only other option is a Hi/Lo trailer or Pop Up.