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If price was not a consideration, Gas or Diesel?

FireGuard
Explorer II
Explorer II
With the new impressive gas engines coming out there is a lot of chatter on different web sites.
I’ve had both and agree with most of the pros and cons.
Just out of curiosity, if you could get the same truck with either engine for the same price would anyone still buy the gas engine?
If so, what are the reasons.
13Jeep Wrangler
07 Ragen 21FB
12 Yamaha Super Tenere
14 Suzuki DR 650
79 REPLIES 79

mountainkowboy
Explorer
Explorer
burningman wrote:
With the right fuel plate, delivery valves, injectors and turbos, you can make such stupid power that new stock diesel pickups are a joke... everyone is oohing and aahhing over measly 400-something horsepower while you have 700. It’ll cost you to build a transmission to handle it and some other upgrades so you don’t just scatter parts all over the street. But it won’t be $75,000.
And - it’ll run, period. No trouble codes, no check engine light, no DEF, no sensors, none of that garbage.




The 97 Dodge 12v I had was "turned up" to 375 hp and had a Garret torque turbo on it along with a 3.5" exhaust and the rest of the goodies required for that performance...it was a beast!! The problem was that the Dodge part of the truck was falling apart and costing WAY to much to keep on the road. I would LOVE to 12v an old F450 with an NV5600 and a 2 speed rear axle. Say 425 hp or so of easy reliable power without the hassle. 😉
Chuck & Ruth with 4-legged Molly
2007 Tiffin Allegro 30DA
2011 Ford Ranger
1987 HD FLHTP

burningman
Explorer II
Explorer II
If you look a while you can still find a clean not-used-up 20 year old Dodge Cummins.
Yank out the electronic Bosch VP44 injector pump and throw it as far off a cliff as possible.
Then install a pre-computer, mechanical Bosch P7100.
With the right fuel plate, delivery valves, injectors and turbos, you can make such stupid power that new stock diesel pickups are a joke... everyone is oohing and aahhing over measly 400-something horsepower while you have 700. It’ll cost you to build a transmission to handle it and some other upgrades so you don’t just scatter parts all over the street. But it won’t be $75,000.
And - it’ll run, period. No trouble codes, no check engine light, no DEF, no sensors, none of that garbage.

Of course, you don’t have to go nuts on the power, but you can easily have as much as a new truck plus simplicity, which equals reliability.

(The preceding message was brought to you by an old hot rodder who, every rare now and then, still blows someone’s doors off in his “grampa truck” just for fun. Reader discretion advised.)
2017 Northern Lite 10-2 EX CD SE
99 Ram 4x4 Dually Cummins
A whole lot more fuel, a whole lot more boost.
4.10 gears, Gear Vendors overdrive, exhaust brake
Built auto, triple disc, billet shafts.
Kelderman Air Ride, Helwig sway bar.

mountainkowboy
Explorer
Explorer
jimh425 wrote:


Besides, in your previous thread you said you were buying a new diesel when you retired? Has the 7.3L gasoline engine got you to switch back?


Never said I would buy a "new" diesel...maybe a 7.3 PS but then it would have to be an F450 for the payload ability. Otherwise it would be a used 2011 or newer gasser....
Chuck & Ruth with 4-legged Molly
2007 Tiffin Allegro 30DA
2011 Ford Ranger
1987 HD FLHTP

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
On the other hand - Time is consideration in this thread.
Long thread does indicate lot of variables, but years ago I had a project 600 miles away from home.
Used 2 vehicles driving there several times, both delivering 32 mpg.
But one was 201 HP, the other 90 HP.
So even I kept the same cruising speed on long drive, the car with more HP was getting me there 1/2 hr faster.
Not noticeable at first, couple of seconds gained here on better acceleration, few second gained on long grade and on 7 hr drive it did make 1/2 hr difference.

ppine
Explorer II
Explorer II
Diesels pull more, last longer, have fewer problems, and hold their value. They are industrial engines. The best thing that can happen to an RVer is to own a diesel.

jimh406
Explorer III
Explorer III
mountainkowboy wrote:
Sure a diesel might climb the hill faster than my gasser, but I'm in no hurry, so it doesn't matter and 9 grand buys a lot of gas. I cruise at 60 mph at 2,000 rpm getting 9.5 mpg on a 30 year old truck and I expect the newer gasser to get around the same.


The title of the thread said “price was not a consideration”. 😉

Besides, in your previous thread you said you were buying a new diesel when you retired? Has the 7.3L gasoline engine got you to switch back?

'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.

NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member

mountainkowboy
Explorer
Explorer
When I replace Red, a 1990 F350 gasser, it will be with another gasser. I've owned both gas and diesel trucks over the years hauling TC's, and the new electronic wonder diesels cost to much to buy and to much to fix when they break or fault. We had a fleet of'um at work and they seemed to be in the shop all the time, while the gassers just did what they were supposed to do. Flame me if you want but I will never own another light truck with a diesel...especially the electronic wonders that they sell now. Sure a diesel might climb the hill faster than my gasser, but I'm in no hurry, so it doesn't matter and 9 grand buys a lot of gas. I cruise at 60 mph at 2,000 rpm getting 9.5 mpg on a 30 year old truck and I expect the newer gasser to get around the same.
Chuck & Ruth with 4-legged Molly
2007 Tiffin Allegro 30DA
2011 Ford Ranger
1987 HD FLHTP

Bigfootchevy
Explorer
Explorer
Diesels is the only way to go with a truck camper in the box.

wnjj
Explorer II
Explorer II
Kayteg1 wrote:
pnichols wrote:
I wonder when (if ever) trucks are going to have solenoid operated valves?

Closing both intake and exhuast valves automatically whenever needed on downgrades would probably provide very powerful compression braking in gas engines.


Even in build for high pressure 6l Powerstroke the cylinder pressure could lift the heads in extreme situations.
I can only imagine what that idea would do to gasoline heads who were never intended for high pressure.


Something between the 15psi worth of vacuum braking and the 150psi or more of combustion pressure would be a good compromise. You can’t just shut the valves though. You need the intake open and the exhaust closed intermittently or left just cracked open slightly.

Think air compressor with a slow leak.

Kayteg1
Explorer II
Explorer II
pnichols wrote:
I wonder when (if ever) trucks are going to have solenoid operated valves?

Closing both intake and exhuast valves automatically whenever needed on downgrades would probably provide very powerful compression braking in gas engines.


Even in build for high pressure 6l Powerstroke the cylinder pressure could lift the heads in extreme situations.
I can only imagine what that idea would do to gasoline heads who were never intended for high pressure.

pnichols
Explorer II
Explorer II
I wonder when (if ever) trucks are going to have solenoid operated valves?

Closing both intake and exhuast valves automatically whenever needed on downgrades would probably provide very powerful compression braking in gas engines.
2005 E450 Itasca 24V Class C

wnjj
Explorer II
Explorer II
Regarding exhaust brakes:

Gas engines have a throttle so provide a certain amount of restriction natively. This acts somewhat like a brake.

Diesels without exhaust brakes have little natural compression braking since they only have the friction of the spinning engine and no restriction in the airflow to slow them down.

Now with exhaust-restricting turbos you can add significant resistance to the coasting engine.

Here is the big difference between restricting the intake (gas engine throttle) and restricting the exhaust (diesel exhaust brake): With an intake restriction you can only pull down to as low as a perfect vacuum which is less than 15psi. On the exhaust side you can build much higher pressure than that which provides a much stronger braking effect because it takes more energy to build higher pressures.

otrfun
Explorer II
Explorer II
Kayteg1 wrote:
otrfun wrote:
... FWIW, I've heard you can get a DPF cut-open, cleaned, and welded back together for about a 1/3 the cost of a new one.
That would be technique used by butcher.
DPF cleaning follows up the technology and now in any bigger US city you will find a shop who does ultrasonic cleaning.
In Europe they have several different techniques - from plain water pressure flushing to use of solvents . . .
Glad technology has moved us past the need to butcher DPF's--lol! Seriously though, it's good to know there are other options available if/when a DPF fails. Thanks.

3_tons
Explorer III
Explorer III
The extended warranty Sold to me at time of purchase does not cover emissions equpiment...Though at the time I bought it more as computer insurance....After a collection of nagging issues from my first 07 6.7 to my 16, I can’t hardly help but to wait for the other shoe to drop...Fair or not, I can only consider the emissions add-ons as Beta engineering...