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Interesting leveling blocks

Dave5143
Explorer
Explorer
This is kinda neat looking idea. Anybody here use these for side to side leveling of their trailer?
Dave & Mary

2012 Denali 289RK
Ford F250 Lariat Powerstroke 6.7L Diesel
31 REPLIES 31

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
rbpru wrote:
I just use two five foot 2"x12" boards. They provides 2 inches or 4 inches of lift under both wheels.


If these boards are 2X then they'll each be ~ 1.5" thick, providing about 1.5" or 3" of lift. 2" x 10" boards which are ~ 9.5" wide would be plenty wide and be approximately 20% lighter than 2" x 12" boards. Trimming each on a table saw to the same 8.5" width as a Lynx leveler would save even more weight, as well as cutting one board a few inches shorter than the other. No need to drag around more weight than necessary. ๐Ÿ˜‰
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

rbpru
Explorer II
Explorer II
It looks like just another leveling option. I see no particular advantage or disadvantage over other leveling devises.

I just use two five foot 2"x12" boards. They provides 2 inches or 4 inches of lift under both wheels. Easy to drive up on, simple to use, a bit heavy, readily available and they are relatively cheap.

Safe travels
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

RandomAbstract
Explorer
Explorer
siamese wrote:
Hmmmm....nope, i'd pass on that.

For easy effective leveling, I haven't seen anything that surpasses the Anderson leveling system.


Yep, I love Anderson levelers. Infinitely adjustable.
LeRoy & Alessandra

siamese
Explorer
Explorer
Hmmmm....nope, i'd pass on that.

For easy effective leveling, I haven't seen anything that surpasses the Anderson leveling system.

downtheroad
Explorer
Explorer
I just don't see the advantage of this system....over standard boards or blocks.

I do kind of like the LED level gauge...interesting gadget.
LED Level Gauge LINK
"If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane."

Arctic Fox 25Y
GMC Duramax
Blue Ox SwayPro

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
I carry two 2x10s cross wise in truck bed behind 5vr hitch
One long board....52"
One shorter board...46"

Long board when I only need 1.5" lift
Both boards when I need 3" lift
Ends of boards are tapered and top board pins to bottom board so neither slide

Any more then that and I relocate

Simple.........no assembly required
Just lay boards down next to wheels then drive forward or backwards slide boards over and drive onto them
Side to side DONE

One 10' every 5 yrs ----use the left over to make two pads for landing gear or rear stabilizers
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
Dave5143 wrote:
I guess I liked the way each level wedged into the previous lower level thus keeping the different boards from shifting around. Could do the same thing using 16' of 2x8 lumber and carriage bolts though.


What I don't like about using 2x lumber is it's heavy, especially if you're carrying several lengths. I instead mounted light weight plastic Lynx levelers to a hinged 3/4" board so they don't shift, if I need additional lift the next row of Lynx lock into the ones below. Takes up no room to store and has worked like a charm for me for years. :B

2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

Dave5143
Explorer
Explorer
I guess I liked the way each level wedged into the previous lower level thus keeping the different boards from shifting around. Could do the same thing using 16' of 2x8 lumber and carriage bolts though. Don't really need the fancy electronic leveling device.
Dave & Mary

2012 Denali 289RK
Ford F250 Lariat Powerstroke 6.7L Diesel

CapnCampn
Explorer III
Explorer III
Frequently I'll put the two tires on different height blocks (2x lumber, so 1 1/2 inches difference between tires). Adding a block to 1 tire gives about half the height bump as both tires, so it's good for fine tuning the leveling.

I don't feel that I'm causing any harm.

Back to the OP's point, 64 bucks seems a little steep for a few pieces of plastic in my opinion, but hey, Hopkins gotta make some money too. ๐Ÿ™‚

Camp on!

CC

goducks10
Explorer
Explorer
Waste of money IMO.

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
Sorry, but as illustrated in that link I'd never elevate just one low side tire on a dual axle trailer. Thumbs down from me. ๐Ÿ˜ž


parker.rowe wrote:
Why not? Just curious.


One tire, axle, and suspension components are subjected to far more stress than the other tire, axle, and suspension components on the same side of the trailer, and for days at a time while you're camping. Why, when there's no need? :R



Interestingly, later that same link shows both tires properly elevated.



I agree with others in that I see no advantage whatsoever to this Hopkins kit when simply beveling the edges of the 2x achieves exactly the same thing. :S
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

parker_rowe
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
Dave5143 wrote:
This is kinda neat looking idea. Anybody here use these for side to side leveling of their trailer?


Sorry, but as illustrated in that link I'd never elevate just one low side tire on a dual axle trailer. Thumbs down from me. ๐Ÿ˜ž


Why not? Just curious. You can jack up one axle for service...or say drive on side of the camper over a bump and the axles articulate separately.

I've been leveling using just one wheel driven onto staggered 2x6's for about 3 years now and haven't noticed any issues. Doesn't mean it doesn't cause any though.
2015 Starcraft TravelStar 239TBS 6500 GVWR
1997 GMC Suburban K2500 7.4 Vortec/4.10
1977 Kawasaki KZ1000

Sandia_Man
Explorer II
Explorer II
Pretty much use the same system but old-style with boards I tapered and a level I set center of rig from door way access. Nothing wrong with purchasing it if you like electronic gizmos (which I do), but I'll keep using what I have as it takes just a few minutes to level and unhitch as it is, can't see where this system would save me any significant time worthy of the investment.

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
jfkmk wrote:
DutchmenSport wrote:
You have buy the plastic wedges and then add your own lumber. I already have the lumber and chocks, (lots of lumber). I see no advantage to these over anything else that already exists. If you have your own lumber already, you already know you don't need these plastic wedges. All you have to do is taper the edge of the lumber and you've got the same thing.

Nay, I pass on this one.

Yeah, but did you pay $64 to taper the wood??

Agree, I got an alert from e-trailer regarding these and saw no real advantage.


$64 for the Skill saw that did the taper! :B

jfkmk
Explorer
Explorer
DutchmenSport wrote:
You have buy the plastic wedges and then add your own lumber. I already have the lumber and chocks, (lots of lumber). I see no advantage to these over anything else that already exists. If you have your own lumber already, you already know you don't need these plastic wedges. All you have to do is taper the edge of the lumber and you've got the same thing.

Nay, I pass on this one.

Yeah, but did you pay $64 to taper the wood??

Agree, I got an alert from e-trailer regarding these and saw no real advantage.