KZ Connect C231RBKSE Refrigerator Quit Working

[Surgtech94]

Just a rant! We used our camper once, everything was fine, came home for a few days before the next trip and refrigerator isn’t working. Dealer can’t get It in till week of the 11th. We’re going this weekend and going to use coolers and outside fridge. Anyone else have this issue? Disappointing with something brand new but I understand things happen.

[Kampfirekid]

We just replaced our Norcold in a 9 month old trailer. It was a 12v only fridge. The compressor went out. I’m surprised the OP had a electric/gas/battery fridge in a newer model KZ. All we’ve seen is 12v only units when looking.

[goducks10]

It must be the newer stuff. We had a Norcold 6 cu.ft in our previous 5er for 6 years. Worked perfect from day 1 until we sold it. Even in hot temps all I did was move the temp setting from 4 to 5. 70% of the time it was on 4. Only when temps stayed under 50 ish did we move the setting to 3.

the NX8 we had worked fine for the 1st season which we did a lot of camping as the wife retired in late spring. Probably 70-80 nights. Then 2020 Covid hit and with the parks shutdown and other stuff we only managed 30 nights or so. Half way through the 2020 summer the NX8 started to act funny. wouldn't cool down as quick and then it kept taking a higher temp setting until it finally wouldn't cool at all.

Really disappointing.

[ScottG]

goducks10 wrote:

ScottG wrote:

goducks10 wrote:
I switched out for a 12V only fridge. It's been an adventure but it still works.

Which 12v fridge did you go with?

https://www.geappliances.com/appliance/GE-9-8-Cu-Ft-12-Volt-DC-Power-Top-Freezer-Refrigerator-GPV10F...

It's a power hog but is still way nicer than the Nevercold NX8.
The NX8 is really only about 7.5 cu.ft, The GE is 9.8 so over 2 cu.ft more space.
I have 5 100W panels so under ideal conditions it's fine. Under partly cloudy conditions I need to run the gen for a couple hours. Dont have a problem with that as we usually do anyways around dinner time. It's got a little hum to it but nothing we care about. Can only hear it at night.
We do a mix of dry or FH so for us it's fine.
Right now it cycles between +13 to -13 on the freezer and +32 to +41 in the fridge section. Both doable for us. I have remote temp sensors in each compartment so thats how I know whats happening.

Even though it's a power hog I'd still go 12V again only this time I'd spend the bucks for a
https://www.vitrifrigo.com/us/us/dp2600ibd4-f-internal-cooling-unit.
I only paid $949 from my local appliance store plus $49 for a 3 year warranty. Cheaper than a new Norcold or the Vitrifrigo.

Thx for the response. I truly believe that Norcold has gotten so bad as to be unusable - even brand new. They're marginal in normal weather but they only rarely work when temps hit triple digits. I have to constantly mess with the stat on mine.
Before I take a trip to warmer regions, I have to do something about this POS.

[dccamper]

See if you have a GCFI outlet tripped.

[goducks10]

ScottG wrote:

goducks10 wrote:
I switched out for a 12V only fridge. It's been an adventure but it still works.

Which 12v fridge did you go with?

https://www.geappliances.com/appliance/GE-9-8-Cu-Ft-12-Volt-DC-Power-Top-Freezer-Refrigerator-GPV10F...

It's a power hog but is still way nicer than the Nevercold NX8.
The NX8 is really only about 7.5 cu.ft, The GE is 9.8 so over 2 cu.ft more space.
I have 5 100W panels so under ideal conditions it's fine. Under partly cloudy conditions I need to run the gen for a couple hours. Dont have a problem with that as we usually do anyways around dinner time. It's got a little hum to it but nothing we care about. Can only hear it at night.
We do a mix of dry or FH so for us it's fine.
Right now it cycles between +13 to -13 on the freezer and +32 to +41 in the fridge section. Both doable for us. I have remote temp sensors in each compartment so thats how I know whats happening.

Even though it's a power hog I'd still go 12V again only this time I'd spend the bucks for a
https://www.vitrifrigo.com/us/us/dp2600ibd4-f-internal-cooling-unit.
I only paid $949 from my local appliance store plus $49 for a 3 year warranty. Cheaper than a new Norcold or the Vitrifrigo.

[Grit_dog]

Surgtech94 wrote:
We took it in and nothing wrong was found

So it works fine now with no repairs made?

[ScottG]

goducks10 wrote:
I switched out for a 12V only fridge. It's been an adventure but it still works.

Which 12v fridge did you go with?

[goducks10]

How long has the door been shut and the cool down process been on?

I recently chit canned my NX8 that was 1.5 years old. Everything was working, e.g, the gas part had flame and the elec portion worked. Problem was the cooling tubes were plugged.
Did all the tests and both the gas and elec functioned as normal.

Fridge was always on level ground whether camping or stored.

Yeah really disappointing. I switched out for a 12V only fridge. It's been an adventure but it still works.

[Surgtech94]

We took it in and nothing wrong was found

[wnjj]

deltabravo wrote:

Surgtech94 wrote:
But nothing, on Automatic with the Plugicon, nothing with the electric plug icon,

What is a Plug Icon?

AC operation mode indicator.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1435730/Norcold-Polar-N7v.html?page=26#manual

[deltabravo]

Surgtech94 wrote:
But nothing, on Automatic with the Plugicon, nothing with the electric plug icon,

What is a Plug Icon?

[Scottiemom]

My Dometic wasn't working on electric. Turn out the outlet in the refrigerator compartment was bad. It worked/didn't work. Had a friend replace it and now it works on both gas and electric.

Dale

[Lynnmor]

Surgtech94 wrote:
Our dealer is only a couple miles away. I’d rather not start messing with fuses. We picked up the TT April 1st, so yes covered under warranty. The refrigerator appears to kick on with propane. Everything appears normal as far as lights on the dor angel n inside fridge light comes on when button is pushed to Auto electric,

Not sure why you would ask for help if you won't even change a fuse. If it "appears" normal on propane, then simply look to see if there is a flame burning. If there is a flame and still no cooling, the refrigerator needs major work or replacement.

[BobsYourUncle]

With this bit of info, it would appear that the fuses are ok then.

If it is running and functioning on propane, then all appears well and you can use the fridge.

Did you know that it takes many hours for an RV fridge to get cold? Usually overnight is recommended.

[Surgtech94]

Our dealer is only a couple miles away. I’d rather not start messing with fuses. We picked up the TT April 1st, so yes covered under warranty. The refrigerator appears to kick on with propane. Everything appears normal as far as lights on the dor angel n inside fridge light comes on when button is pushed to Auto electric,