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Lance service dept info

FreeLanceing
Explorer II
Explorer II
Anyone have a way to contact the Lance truck camper service dept. They do not respond to requests from there website. I am going to remove my front window and I need to source the metal and seek advise on how to go about it. The glass broke from a stone last fall and I am done with it.
8 REPLIES 8

travelnutz
Explorer II
Explorer II
FreeLanceing,

Hi neighbor! I have sent you several PM's and you should have all the info for your TC front window altering you seek now. If you need more, just ask.
A superb CC LB 4X4, GM HD Diesel, airbags, Rancho's, lots more
Lance Legend TC 11' 4", loaded including 3400 PP generator and my deluxe 2' X 7' rear porch
29 ft Carriage Carri-lite 5'er - a specially built gem
A like new '07 Sunline Solaris 26' TT

pbrooks101
Explorer
Explorer
I have had great luck and great service from calling them direct. I have ordered several parts from them in the past. Shipping is a bit high but they have always come through with what I needed. Twice I have needed a piece of filon for wing repairs and they have come through for me.
2011 Ford F350 Superduty DRW SD
2011 Lance 1191 (picture below shows 2004 1161-will update soon!)
2010 HD Street Glide
2005 Pace-American MC trailer
2010 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

FreeLanceing
Explorer II
Explorer II
Well thanks for the replies. I will try calling them. Yes my camper is a 2004 815. I really like everything about it. I don't use enough to justify a new one. Its been to Alaska and back. The only complaint is the dang front window. I was really planning on replacing the 2 complete front skins for a proffesional job. I see the detail involved. I am a licensed builder/finish carpenter so if I could find the stuff I think I can knock it out. I really hate to do the patch over thing but I can see where that would work saving time and money. Its not like its worth a lot anymore.

travelnutz
Explorer II
Explorer II
A new area cover over the old front cab over window area is so much easier than replacing the full width front skin which involves removing the preformed corner molding which is so hard to keep from bending or kinking because the caulk under it has usually become like a glue thanks to years of the Sun's heat. Once you bend that molding even by accident, it will never look right again or seal properly and you'll expose all the screw holes to new leaks.

That's why I have always replaced all exterior screws that weren't already stainless to stainless and almost always 1/4" longer so they have some new bite. Steel screws almost always rust from the condensation moisture contained in the wood and or the difference in interior and exterior temperatures. Many times the existing steel screws will even breakoff and leave the rusting/rusted debris in the screw hole so a new screw even won't go back in. Just think about the rot that's around that rusted screw?

BTW, steel screws in aluminum and with ambient moisture/humidity which contains natural air born chemicals and pollutants is actually a small battery and over time the aluminum becomes sacrificed. No more grip!
A superb CC LB 4X4, GM HD Diesel, airbags, Rancho's, lots more
Lance Legend TC 11' 4", loaded including 3400 PP generator and my deluxe 2' X 7' rear porch
29 ft Carriage Carri-lite 5'er - a specially built gem
A like new '07 Sunline Solaris 26' TT

travelnutz
Explorer II
Explorer II
To the OP,

2004 was the last model year that had the front window and it has a wood frame with metal siding. The same wood frame used for several decades and can be seen by googling and pre-2005 wood framed Lance Camper brochure. Very clearly shows the front end framing detail with the skins removed. Really helpful!

It's very easy to work with for the removing the front window as you can screw and glue the new filler framing where the window is so easily and it will be very strong. Then add an inside same thickness as OEM panel to cover the newly installed framing area and glue it on and simply staple or use 1" brads to hold it on while the glue dries. I'd also add a larger vinyl covered panel overlapping the existing front inside paneling with about 2" to 4" overlap using plastic panel edging so it looks professional and like it was originally done. All construction materials can be had from Rycenga Lumber where you live as I also live there too and have purchased the items. Might be had at Home Depot also which is right across the street.

Now fill all the new frame cavities with either spun glass insulation or well fitted closed cell foam board. Cover with matching thickness wood like a plywood and expanding foam bead seal all around the edges to seal against water or moisture intrusion as the bunk area walls and ceilings sweat from body heat and breathing moisture release especially when it's cold outside. I would then brush on Thompson's waterproofing (Petroleum based, not water based) and let it totally and thoroughly dry. One coat is all that's needed.

Next comes the exterior patch and you have choices. Either standard white aluminum that matches your TC's skin and PM me and I'll tell you where to get it in West Michigan or I can arrange for you to buy thru my connections. It avoids and long delivery time and the protective wood packing which is required and the shipping costs which are an arm and a leg! Usually has to go by truck! The thin aluminum exterior patch can be made to look professional and somewhat original by using standard white pre-painted "J" channel around the aluminum siding and be sure to caulk very well. The "J" channel is attached with staples like TOT 50 stainless 3/8" min length to the original window opening framing and caulk well under it before being stapled.

Maybe you want a flat white fiberglass panel look like the Filon siding. No problem, as it's done the same way. If spacers are needed for thickness matching under the exterior skin, use either some roofing felt layers glued on or if a lot is needed, use a foil bubble wrap cut to fit under the exterior skin. Both are water/moisture proof and the foil bubble wrap also adds some insulation R-value.

It's really not that big of a project (about 2 days after having all materials already on hand) if you are an average capability handyman. Only simple hand tools are needed and a decent sized table top to work on. Have to keep the working on the TC area dry and a large tarp covering the entire top and cab over area and tied down will do that in rains.
A superb CC LB 4X4, GM HD Diesel, airbags, Rancho's, lots more
Lance Legend TC 11' 4", loaded including 3400 PP generator and my deluxe 2' X 7' rear porch
29 ft Carriage Carri-lite 5'er - a specially built gem
A like new '07 Sunline Solaris 26' TT

pcoplin
Explorer II
Explorer II
I've always had great customer service when calling them.
2005 F350 CCLB Dually 6.0/5R110
2009 Adventurer 950B

TrailerTravele1
Explorer
Explorer
We got through to them via telephone. I had the same experience via the website. But the phone worked. Try calling 661-802-0997 for the service dept. Good luck!
Cheers! Jan & David

Just returned from our First "Snowbird" Winter ... 25,000 miles, 26 states, 23 National Parks ... and counting....

TrailerTraveler.net

jimh406
Explorer III
Explorer III
I've heard others say they respond to phone calls.

'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.

NRA Life Member, CCA Life Member