Not sure upper stableloads are right for me (UPDATED)

[Sliding-into-ho]

(UPDATE 10/23/2019 here: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29794168/gotomsg/29988533.cfm#29988533 Safe to say the upper stableloads were NOT causing any issues that I didn't have already, but the stock shocks very likely were. Upgrades continue! Big thanks to the massive wealth of knowledge on this board. In the first page of responses alone, pretty much all the relevant considerations were addressed. You Rock! Thanks also to Torklift who reached out and went the extra mile to help me get dialed in.)

Rig: 2017 F350, SRW, FX4.
Tire sticker 3243lb
Rear GAWR: 7230lb
TC: NL 9-6, 2600 Dry, 2900 Wet

The only suspension mod the dealer installed is upper stable loads. I wanted the lowers, but they said they don't install them because they don't want to deal with the drilling.

I've never hauled a TC before, but plenty of heavy trailers. The stable loads don't feel quite right. If you've ever ridden in a New York taxi cab in the 80's or 90's (you know... the Ford Tauruses and Lincoln Town Cars with shot suspensions), that's sort of the sensation: floaty, bouncy, vague, disconnected.

I wouldn't say there's a lot of sway in terms of magnitude of movement, but when it does sway, it bounces back and forth from side to side.

My hunch is simple: my rig may not be quite heavy enough to warrant full size stable loads, which engage too much of the upper overload spring (lower spring rate) and not enough of the higher spring-rate lower overload. I suspect this is why Torklift unequivocally recommends lower stable loads first. But to be clear, I don't have any experience with this and these are just guesses.

The rear fender is 1-2 inches higher than the front fender, depending on the load, for what it's worth.

Here are a few things that I would try next, but if you feel like you know a more ideal solution, please let me know:

1. Remove stable loads and get a baseline for how the truck handles fully stock. After all, I'm under my door sticker weight (I've removed a propane tank and the heavy rear patio).

2. Shave an inch or two off the stable load blocks

3. Uninstall stable loads and, assuming too much sag/roll, upgrade shocks to rancho adjustable and add Hellwig Big Wig.

4. Last option would be air bags, which would probably only need minimal inflation.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts!

[otrfun]

Sliding-into-home wrote:
Drove up to the mountain today. No major porpoising. Perhaps slower speed on certain local roads is the issue. I'm going to try multiple configurations and report back.

We may be purchasing a 2019 Northern Lite 8-11 this week. Interesting, according to NL's website, the long bed NL 9-6 is 3" longer than the short bed NL 8-11, however, the 9-6 weighs 25 lbs. less than the 8-11 :h

In any case, our truck is a '16 Ram 3500 CC SB SRW 6.7 (4k payload; 11.7k GVWR; RAWR 7k). After reading your thread I'm beginning to wonder if we're going to have similar issues. Especially in light of the fact your NL 9-6 has the advantage of having the COG a number of inches in front of the rear axle on your LB F350. The new, 2019 short bed NL 8-11's COG is approx. 1.5" behind the rear axle on the SB Ram 3500.

[bighatnohorse]

https://www.torklift.com/blog/entry/proper-tension-for-turnbuckles

[WyoBull]

I have both the upper stableloads and airbags on my truck. I run 60 psi in front and 80 psi in the rear tires when I am hauling my camper. I also have the camper package so it has the sway bar as well.

I haul my camper fully wet with the water and hot water tanks full as I never know if and where I will be able to fill the tanks because we typically are off grid. When I load my camper I set my airbags to just where the upper stableload engages with the overload spring. On my truck that is typically around 25-35 lbs. If I am also pulling my ATV trailer then I find I am usually running about 40-45 lbs in the bags.

I like my setup and it feels very stable to me.

[Sliding-into-ho]

Just an update. I haven't had a chance to make any changes yet, due to unforeseen circumstances, but I did want to chime in and say that I've been in contact with Torklift. They've been a class act as far as proactive customer service is concerned. They are going the extra mile to make sure I'm satisfied and that I have the right product for my application. Kudos to Torklift.

[Sliding-into-ho]

Drove up to the mountain today. No major porpoising. Perhaps slower speed on certain local roads is the issue. I'm going to try multiple configurations and report back.

[Rustofer]

I should add that a big advantage of the lower stable-loads over wedges is the ease with which they can be disengaged. I generally remove my camper after each use and can quickly pull the lower SL's to restore the more comfortable unloaded spring rate.

[Rustofer]

I have a '17 F-350 CCLB 6.2 and 9.6 NL Sportsman (2695 dry per closet sticker). I do carry more add-ons (bedding, toiletries, dishes, beverages, leveling blocks, lawn chairs, etc.). I've added both upper and lower stable-loads, and highly recommend both. Drilling the leafs in my driveway took some effort but went very well; it would have been dead-easy if I had the Torklift jig.
I do have the factory camper package which includes the rear sway bar. Typical rear axle weight is 7000 - 7200, and it handles just fine.

[Sliding-into-ho]

jimh425 wrote:
More likely shocks if your porpoising. I’d also try tire pressure change on the front and ensure they put the pressure back to what you think it is after the tire change.

Yep, pressure was a priority! It's back at 75/80 front/back.

[jimh406]

More likely shocks if your porpoising. I’d also try tire pressure change on the front and ensure they put the pressure back to what you think it is after the tire change.

[Sliding-into-ho]

Bedlam wrote:
I think you will create more issues with the cut down StableLoads. You would be better off removing them as a test or adding spacers between the perch and StableLoad to engage them more. You might hear spring slap against the stops but not what you are describing.

Yeah, I like that idea. Let's avoid making irreversible changes in case things don't get better.

[Bedlam]

I think you will create more issues with the cut down StableLoads. You would be better off removing them as a test or adding spacers between the perch and StableLoad to engage them more. You might hear spring slap against the stops but not what you are describing.

[Sliding-into-ho]

Sway bar arrives on Monday. Pretty sure I'm going to cut these stable loads down quite a bit. I suspect they're contributing to a fairly annoying front-to-back axle hop (porpoising?). IF I have any sag with the stock suspension (and I'm not sure I will) I'll just add rancho adjustables and call it a day.

I'll be able to confirm after I cut down the stableloads, but I suspect most of you guys/gals are getting far more engagement from them, so there's less of a rebound effect. In other words, they're always at least partially engaging the overloads with heavier campers whereas my combo is light enough for my suspension that it's only engaging the upper overloads when the suspension periodically compresses due to bumps or cornering. Not a suspension expert, but that would seem to explain both the side-to-side bounce and the porpoising bounce. I'll be first in line to eat my words if I'm wrong about this, and I'll definitely let you all know.

In other news, I just got the Nokian LT2s put on, and they are GREAT. No joke, I cannot even hear the studs above 10mph.

[mountainkowboy]

A rear swaybar makes and ENORMOUS difference.

[Sliding-into-ho]

Grit dog wrote:
Ok ,so out of the gate, your truck will feel more vague, bouncy etc with 3000lbs inthe rear end.
How your tiedowns are adjusted has 0 to do with howthe truck drives.
If those pics are with the camper loaded then it’s a featherweight and you have a very stout and very brand new suspension (stiffer). It’s barely engaging the uppers and not 100% engaging the lowers.
A sway bar will do 2x as much as spring blocks for the top heavy body roll feel BUT you do not NEED one. It would be a luxury with a camper that’s light or springs that strong.

You certainly don’t need airbags and you don’t need to be miserly with the weight. Fill the water, fill both propane’s, put the bumper back on.....don’t worry. Seriously.

I guess I missed this post, but the the camper wasn't loaded in that pic. I have since filled the tank, propane, generator, gear, and inflated tires to 75/80. Springs don't look much different. The ride has improved somewhat. Still some side to side bouncing over uneven pavement. I'm fairly confident a big wig would be the last suspension change I'd need. I might take off the uppers and throw some felling wedges in the lowers. But if the truck sits with a level attitude with no wedges, I'll probably keep the suspension stock and just run the sway bar.

[Kayteg1]

I think upper stabilload are the safest reinforcement you can do.
I can't stand the image of lower shims applying breaking force on the leaves.
My F350 dually did not sag with heavy camper to the degree to apply load on upper overloads, but just to be on safe side, I put hockey pucks there.
Just because I am not hurting anything by doing so.