Ok - this decision has changed to 3/4 ton or 1 ton?

[ruthiebaby88]

I am researching buying a pickup and camper to ride in bed.

Most of the camper manufacturers say a 3/4 ton pickup is fine for the campers I want to carry, however some of the truck manufacturers claim that their maximum payload is 2800 with a 4x4 and extended cab like I want. Sounds like lots of people carry with a 3/4 ton, but don't like the ride so eventually upgrade to a 1 ton.

What is your experience with these vehicles?

How would owning/maintenance expenses vary between the 2 pickups?

Gas mileage? Driv-ability?

I'm on a limited budget, so buying a 1 ton means it has closer to 150k miles on it, where I could find a 3/4 ton with about 100k miles.

[BenK]

PS...have driven two neighbor's pickups. Both have the same model Lance slide in

The RAM is a 2500 CTD 4x4 with stock 16 wheels

The Ford is a F350 V10 Super Duty 4x4 with after market 19.5's

Both feel about the same, but the F350 also tows a utility trailer (alu V nose),
which I've not towed

But...their Lance slide in's are HUGE...the OP should be looking at much smaller
slide in's

[BenK]

Most of these things and ratings are taken out of context

Like the MTWR (Max Tow Weight Rating) from most any OEM will have the test using
a stripper model TV (no options, except for the tow option), one driver weighing
in at 150 lbs (I was 150 only in my freshman year in HS).

The 'trailer' is a flat bed with NO frontal area (it is lower than the TV...there
is a picture and I'll dig it up later and repost here)

That 'stripper' model is the 'curb' weight model. No 4x4. No AC. No power windows,
nor power locks, nor power seats. No 2nd and 3rd row seats. No extended cab, nor
crew cab, etc. No optional sound system. No upgraded interior. Etc, etc, etc

Only two that I know of own strippers. Our Admin, Marty, and my dear uncle Bill who
taught most of this stuff to me. He used to laugh about the ratings using that one
driver at 150 lbs. Uncle Bill was a huge Dutchman with flaming red hair and at
5'8 weighed over 250 lbs of pure muscle (no fat on his body)

Here is a diagram showing how the WHOLE system looks like. The interactions of
each component/sub-system. How taking any ONE rating without factoring in the
others is to take that out of context

howmuchcanitow howmuchshoulditow


My Suburban weighs in at around 7,200 lbs with me in it (180), toolbox
(+200) and misc stuff

My MTWR is 10,000 lbs, but that is with a 6,000 lb curb Suburban and
one 150lb driver.

I'd have to loose 30 lbs and unbolt over 1,200 lbs of 'stuff' (options)
in order to really or actually be 'RATED' MTWR...and maybe 40 lbs
after the holidays... :B

My Calif SMOG certificate says my Sub weighs in at
around 5,200 lbs...so another 800 lbs to unbolt...

[Bedlam]

If you do not plan to tow anything heavy and do not want 4wd, a Class B RV may be a better solution for you. There are small truck campers made for 1/2t trucks, but expect them to have smaller tanks and not be as robustly built.

I would recommended a 3/4t truck as minimum just for the upgraded axles and brakes over the 1/2t models. As others have posted, many manufacturers will skin their vehicles with the the same panels and you have to look at the underpinnings.

I had a short bed extended cab 3/4t diesel truck that was just over 19' long. With the camper, it was under 22' allowing you to fit most parking spots. We were on the heavy side because wanted a slide out, the largest available tanks, generator and dual-pane windows (about 11,500 lbs when fully loaded). Going without the diesel, slide and generator would put you closer to 10,500 lbs. This weight puts you in the range of most modern 3/4t and 1t trucks without going to dual rear wheels and still keeping a small profile.

[wintersun]

ScottG wrote:
After carrying a TC in a 3/4T I would say both of those are too light. It may have the capacity to carry it but it's not comfortable or safe feeling.
A 1T truck doesn't cost or ride that much different and gives you a huge choice of campers and much better driving manners when loaded.

You have not kept up to date. 2011 and later GM/Chevy trucks whether 3/4 or 1-ton have the same suspension, drivetrain, and frames, only the leaf packs are different and the 1-tons have the option of DRW. Same is true with the 2013 and later Ram trucks. Only with the Ford trucks is there much variation between the F-250 and the F-350/450 trucks at this time - things change though.

My 2011 GM 2500HD pickup came with a 700 lb. higher rear axle rating than the standard DRW 3500HD trucks. I chose the 2500HD to be able to get the extended/double cab along with the standard length box which is a combination not available with the GM/Chevy 3500 trucks.

[ruthiebaby88]

Hmm - after looking at some trucks and the payloads prescribed - it seems someone would be very lucky to find a 3/4 ton that can carry their camper. However, so many are recommending a 3/4 ton (and dealers even rec a 1/2 ton telling me that it has 8000# payload!)

I looking at the specs over the years it seems trucks payloads are getting significantly less the newer the truck is. An attempt at better gas mileage?

It seems funny to me that the trucks can tow 5 million pounds roughly, but can only carry a couple thousand in the bed. I suppose it's because the engine is powerful, but the parts supporting the weight are not?

People say that a truck/camper combo will get better gas mileage than a Class B or C, but I don't see how that can be true.

I developed my payload requirements by following the payload calculator advised by truck camper magazine. The recommend taking the dry weight and then adding the weight of full tanks and the battery to come up with the wet weight. Then adding 500# to the wet weight for people and gear. I decided to add 1000# for people and gear since I would like to be able to transport 4 adults.

That's how I came up with the payload requirement of 3200-3900 pounds. The lightest dry weight of a camper I found was 1875#, but once you fill the tanks and add people I came up with 3204#.

Many times we may go with only the 2 of us. I wonder if 1000# was overly cautious, perhaps I should have stuck with 500# for people and stuff. That's the number they used in the magazine article.

[BenK]

ruthiebaby88 wrote:
What are the cons of a larger pickup?

Gas mileage?

First, understand that most pickups within an OEM family all use basically
the body that has some trim differences

What is larger/bigger is what is underneath that body and that is the
frame, drive train, suspension, etc

Think of the body as an egg with holes cut out for the windows and doors.
Unibody or monocoque is what that is and is carried on top of a step
ladder (why truck frames are referred to as 'ladder frame') with rubber
cushions (dough-nuts or bushings) to soften the jarring

Now 'larger' is in the ratings because of the 'bigger' frame, suspension,
tires, drive train (engine, transmission, drive shaft, differential, etc)

So it is 'taller' with the same body as the half ton pickups

Take my Suburban, a 3/4 ton. The 1/2 ton has the exact same body, but
mine sits +2 inches taller because of the beefier ladder frame, drive
train, suspension. Mainly the thicker ladder frame rails.

Since things are beefier, they weigh more and therefore takes more
energy to move and stop. So MPG is less

If MPG is on top of your have to have list, then get a smaller truck
and camper

This is why everyone has said to get the higher rated TV or get a smaller
slide in camper

Also, with a slide in camper, they are tippy in adverse conditions vs
towing a trailer.

Why some have advised getting a dually (four rear tires and much wider)

[spud1957]

Golden_HVAC wrote:
Maintenance for a 5.4L F-150 and F-250 and F-350 is exactly the same. Only change is that the F-350 comes with longer life tires and takes more water to replace the coolant in the engine. (larger radiator among other things.)

Not sure if the bigger rad is a typo or not but the 350 has the same rad as the 250 for the 6.2. and they each have the same rad for the 6.7.

Go to this link, scroll down and look at "THIS PART ALSO FITS".

F250/350/450/550 Rad

[buddyIam]

You get a full floating rear axle on a 3/4 ton. Some 1/2 do have a tapered bearing rear axle. They are good. I don't like the idea of a semi floating C-clip rear axle for towing or carrying a camper.

[ruthiebaby88]

What are the cons of a larger pickup?

Gas mileage?

[rhagfo]

We carried a 8' camper in a 79 F250 with a 8,300# GVWR usually ran about 300# over, had a 460, no handling issues.

With the right F150 Max/Max yes it can be done. Yes it will need to be small, and light, but it can be done safely.

The thought process with most of the other posters, is you will want to go bigger soon. Then you will need a bigger truck.
While we tow a 5er, we will look at drop ins at the RV show. There are some very heavy units out there that even push 3500's capacity.

[RJCorazza]

ksss wrote:
Get a one ton, the real decision would be DRW or SRW. Those slide in campers are top heavy, given the wind in Idaho, I would absolutely get as much truck as you can.

X2. My father had a 3/4 ton SRW with a bed camper and it handled horribly in even gentle turns. I ended up getting a 1 ton DRW class C, 21' for our first RV. My current F250 SRW pulls a trailer, but with its 2500lb payload I would be hard pressed to find a slide in camper for it.

[Golden_HVAC]

You really should be looking at the 1 ton trucks for a camper. It just holds a little more weight, and can take on extra loads such as a cargo trailer, extra passengers, or you can fill a couple of extra 5 gallon jugs of water for the trip, and not worry about exceeding it's 11,500 GVWR.

Many 3/4 ton trucks are well under 10,000 GVWR. With a curb weight near 7,000 pounds, that does not leave much room for the camper and anything you might want to carry, along with passengers.

Maintenance for a 5.4L F-150 and F-250 and F-350 is exactly the same. Only change is that the F-350 comes with longer life tires and takes more water to replace the coolant in the engine. (larger radiator among other things.)

The 2004 and earlier F-350 SRW only had a 9,900 GVWR, so it does not need to follow a 'truck route' designated for trucks over 10,000 GVWR (back in 1965, it took dual rear wheels to exceed 10,000 GVWR, and go up into the class 4 truck size. Now a 2005 and later F-250 has a 10,000 GVWR, while a normal SRW F-350 will come with up to about 11,250 or 11,500 GVWR is standard now.

F-350 dually is around 14,000 GVWR, or cargo rating around 6,000 pounds!

GOod luck,

Fred.

GOod luck!
Fred.

[KD4UPL]

If you want a TC your are crazy to even consider a 1500 series truck. A 2500 series would be an absolute minimum. A 3500 would be the best choice. Even a "modest" hard side TC will overload a 3500 SRW. If you want a larger TC then you'll need a dually.
There are TCs out there that will overload a lot of duallys. My 11' camper on my diesel 4wd crew cab dually loaded with my family on board puts me 1,600 pounds over my GVWR.

[BenK]

Repeat...if only a 'half ton' will do...then look at the fake half tons

They are made just for folks who will ONLY buy/own a 'half ton'...

[ruthiebaby88]

Thank you for the information.

I will look at what's available in my price range and choose the strongest I can afford. I had been thinking I could do 1/2 ton if I compromised winter warmth going with the poptop pickup camper.

I don't want to tow, although I realize you can get a much bigger camper to tow. I'm more concerned about being able to drive down the backroads with ease and park in a standard parking spot in the cities for carefree touring.

I figure this opens up stealth options like a van would have, while also allowing backcountry travel and having better road traction under bad driving conditions. Also it seems they are easier to keep warm.

It loooked like this was the thread for discussing pickups so I posted here even though I'm not towing just to learn more about cost differences between 1/2 - 3/4 ton to decide whether to go super light weight camper as opposed to medium.