Oven pilot won't light

[ezrydrs]

I'm not having much luck searching. 2011 Fun Finder 215WSK. Previous owner never used the stove or oven inside the TT (has outside kitchen). We tried to light the oven and can't get the pilot to light. There's no gas at the pilot tube. I unhooked the tube from the valve and there's no gas coming from the valve in the pilot position while holding in on the knob. All three stove burners light and work fine. If I heat the thermocouple in the oven I can light the burner with a lighter, so the gas is flowing there. When the oven reaches set temp, burner goes out like it should, but no pilot to relight the burner. Has there been an issue with these things?
It's a suburban model SRNA3SBSE.
I haven't removed the valve yet. Was hoping someone had some info.
Thanks
Matt

[wmoses]

In my case, my oven is now working and the solution was to replace the entire oven (and stove while they were at it). The manifold was replaced and that did not work. Eventually they gave up and replaced the oven.

[ezrydrs]

Successfully repaired. I contacted Makarious RV and they were able to get me a replacement pilot tube. Their customer service is amazing. I've bought from them in the past and have always been very impressed.

[ezrydrs]

Finally got the time to look into this further. Turns out the gas valve had something blocking the flow. A little bit of air opened it right up. Also put a little air through the pilot gas line and it is open. Turns out the pilot "burner" had the orifice plugged as well. I got it opened up for testing purposes and it lights. It's not installed in the oven because the flame is a little too much for a pilot. I need a new piece and can't find anything on the internet. Is this something I can get from a dealer?
I could make it work, but would leave it lit only while the oven was being used.

[Ron_Nielson]

Another opinion. The oven control has an adjustment for the oven pilot. Open this adjustment a LITTLE, and give it 20 seconds or so for the gas to arrive in the oven. After you get the oven pilot lit, adjust the pilot so that it will re-light but not be TOO BIG to be a pilot.

In this picture the steel colored tube at the outside of the stove is the pilot feed line, and on the front of the control in line with this tube is a screw to adjust the pilot.

(I tried to post picture, but no go. PM me with your email address and I will send a pic or two)

My stove is a Magic Chef, somewhat different than yours, but stoves all pretty much work the same.

[rrupert]

I would guess that the valve assembly is a replace only item for safety reasons.

[ezrydrs]

I'm not getting any gas flow out of the control valve at the pilot connection. I've ruled out the pilot tube itself. I just need to see if there's anything I can do with the main oven control valve.

[rrupert]

How about a pinched or kinked line to the pilot? You probably already checked that.

[ezrydrs]

rrupert wrote:
Have you tried cleaning the pilot orifice? If you can remove it soak it in alcohol for several hours and then dry it out. Don't try cleaning it with any objects.

This was my first thought since I knew there was gas getting to the burner when I heated the thermocouple. When I disconnected the pilot line, I checked for gas right at the valve. None.
I'm going to inspect the valve a little closer and see if there's a fix for it, or replace it. Hate to see the price for a new one.

Thank you all for the advice and suggestions!

[rrupert]

Have you tried cleaning the pilot orifice? If you can remove it soak it in alcohol for several hours and then dry it out. Don't try cleaning it with any objects.

[wmoses]

When I saw your thread title and then read that it was a Suburban oven, I understood completely. They are a POS.

I have a SRNA3LBBE model and have a slightly different problem the solution of which has been elusive to all except God himself. The RV is now at the dealer for a replacement of the whole bl*sted stove and oven, under warranty.

Ever since we got this garbage oven it would shut down sometime after reaching demand temperature. The pilot light lit well enough and the burner would come on, but when the oven reached temperature the burner would turn off (as it should) but then would not come back on when the termperature fell too low since the pilot was extinguished in the meanwhile. In other words the pilot light does not stay on after 1 cycle of the burner.

I brought it to the dealer and they said that there were problems with Suburban ovens and in some cases they had to change the thermocouple, in others they changed the manifold and in some cases they changed out the whole stove. Well my oven has now been through all three "solutions" and I hope that by this time next weekend I would have solved it after almost 9 months.

Funnily when I brought it in for the manifold swap, another customer was also at the dealership with the same issue in his new V-Lite. We both had the new manifolds put in (different models) and both failed to solve the problem.

Never had a minute of problem with the Atwood stove / oven in the previous RV.

OP - Good luck on finding a solution to your problem.

[ezrydrs]

I just tried it without the knob. No luck. It's not the thermocouple because I can heat it up and light the burner. I'm thinking its in the valve itself.

[BurbMan]

jetcare wrote:
If you can't even get the pilot to light, the thermocouple is not the issue. Rotate the knob to the pilot position. Take off the knob. Use your finger to push the shaft (metal stub under the knob) in all the way and hold. Will the pilot light? If so, the knob is not pushing the shaft in far enough. Stuff a wad of paper in the knob hole and then reinsert the knob on the shaft.

^^^^^^YES^^^^^^

[jetcare]

If you can't even get the pilot to light, the thermocouple is not the issue. Rotate the knob to the pilot position. Take off the knob. Use your finger to push the shaft (metal stub under the knob) in all the way and hold. Will the pilot light? If so, the knob is not pushing the shaft in far enough. Stuff a wad of paper in the knob hole and then reinsert the knob on the shaft.

[donn0128]

Bad thermalcouple is the mist likely problem. Cheap to replace to see.