replacing brakes on 1 of 4 wheels?

[TundraTower]

Relatively new 5,400 # Dexter axles and drums on our TT, have less than 2,000 miles.

I developed had a grease leak on one wheel and that brake locked up so much it ruined a tire in 350 miles. I took it apart and replaced the grease seal, and cleaned shoes and drum with red-label brake cleaner, then laquer thinner, then more brake cleaner. Just took it for a test drive today and that one wheel is still grabbing.

SO, looks like I need to replace the shoes on that one wheel. I've never replaced brake shoes on just one side of an axle, but given how new the axles are I can't see why not. The other side of this axle is doing fine.

I know the braking on that axle will be uneven for awhile until the new shoes on one side conform to the radius of the drum, but I was thinking about using a belt sander to try to shape the new shoes to hasten that wear-in.

Anyone ever tried just replacing brakes on one side of an axle? Any reason not to?

Am I missing anything else to stop the grabbing/sliding on this side?

Thanks

[Gdetrailer]

time2roll wrote:
I would just replace the one corner and see what goes. Not near as big a deal to have everything perfectly balanced and matching on a trailer vs the tow vehicle.

When you experience having just "one" brake magnet wire breaking off while you are driving you WILL fully understand just how ONE missing or subpar brake CAN and WILL affect your tow vehicle...

BEEN THERE, DONE THAT.

[TundraTower]

OP here. Thanks for the input so far.

The axles are 18 month-old Dexters and I have in stock TWO complete backing plate brake assemblies, left and right, bought from Dexter. So surely the brake material would be the same.

I am not familiar with this phenomenon mentioned of the trailer pulling the truck to one side due to uneven braking. I'm not saying it isn't real, I've just never heard of it nor experienced it. This is a 8K TT being pulled by a 3/4 ton diesel chevy that weighs 10K. On the last trip, with this one tire locking up enough to ruin the tire, I never felt anything (didn't hear it either).

As far as I can tell the original seal that came with the axle failed. This axle was ordered special WITHOUT the zerk fittings, and without the auto adjust nonsense. Just a good old plain axle with electric brakes.

Doing both sides is a PITA and with the low miles I question if needed. Yes braking will be somewhat uneven until seated, but at least I'll have 75% of my brakes. If I replace both, then I'm down to 50% normal brakes until they wear in.

Thanks for your comments. I'm still deciding.

[time2roll]

I would just replace the one corner and see what goes. Not near as big a deal to have everything perfectly balanced and matching on a trailer vs the tow vehicle.

[Gdetrailer]

Vintage465 wrote:
I'm going to disagree with previous posts. Electric trailer brakes are very "individual" in operation even thought they all receive the same brake signal from the controller. If one brake is slightly out of adjustment, it will just take longer to start braking compared to the other brakes on the axles. If one is worn less, meaning the new one, it may brake sooner when it get the signal if the other three aren't adjusted up to par. If the other brakes are not worn much, I don't see a reason to replace any more than the one side that gooped up...

Have to disagree.

Electric brakes while not connected physically together (hydraulic or physical mechanical wire) MUST REACT THE SAME WAY AT THE SAME TIME.

You simply cannot have one side lead or lag, they MUST work in UNISON.

Putting a new set of brake shoes on one side WILL result in the OPPOSITE SIDE PULLING YOU TO THAT SIDE (the side of the old shoes) UNTIL THE NEW SIDE BRAKE SHOES GET FULLY BEDDED IN.

Takes time to get the shoes to fully fit your worn drum surface.

For that reason IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AND COMMON PRACTICE TO ALWAYS CHANGE BRAKE COMPONENTS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE AXLE.

Can you change just one? SURE, BUT you will have to deal with the brakes not working in unison until enough of the shoes worn down to fully make 100% contact with the drums..

The result will be slightly annoying to down right dangerous, take your pick and take your chances.

I won't do it, not safe to have the trailer suddenly attempt to pull you to the side each time you apply the brakes..

[JRscooby]

opnspaces wrote:


No I would never hit the brake shoes with a belt sander.

Back in the day, a mechanic doing a brake job would drill out the rivets, re-line the shoes. Then use a rasp or file to match the shape of drum. It is very unlikely for the drum to be worn for enough to need.
OP, I would buy and install the backing plate. (be sure you get the correct side.) Then use your sander lightly to remove the contamination from shoes. Box the shoes, magnet, and springs and carry with you. If you have the parts with you, never have the issue DutchmenSport had.
BTW. Before I had the big air wrench, working by hand, I would pull one wheel after a day of work, new shoes and spring kit, and if needed drum on that wheel. Next day, work than another wheel.

[Vintage465]

I'm going to disagree with previous posts. Electric trailer brakes are very "individual" in operation even thought they all receive the same brake signal from the controller. If one brake is slightly out of adjustment, it will just take longer to start braking compared to the other brakes on the axles. If one is worn less, meaning the new one, it may brake sooner when it get the signal if the other three aren't adjusted up to par. If the other brakes are not worn much, I don't see a reason to replace any more than the one side that gooped up. Also, good info on buying the whole backing plate with new springs, magnets, shoes and attaching parts. They really are a bargain now-a-days compared to buying shoes and busting knuckles putting them together!

[DutchmenSport]

On our (new) 5er, shortly after we purchased it, (probably 3000 miles on it), a spring broke on one wheel brake. It was griding awful, sounded horrible. I limped the trailer back to the dealership. Under warranty they replaced the entire wheel (on both sides). The spring destroyed too much inside to save anything, and sounds like it was just easier to replace the whole thing.

I asked why they did the second wheel .... on the opposite side, same axle. They said it was required to keep the braking power/resistance equal on both sides. Considering warranty covered it all, I didn't argue the point.

[midnightsadie]

do them both its not that hard of a job, then you,ll know whats going on.

[dodge_guy]

You can try and do just the one side. If it stops or acts funny then replace the other side. With that low of miles it shouldn't matter. But the shoes are sold in pairs.

[Lynnmor]

Do you have the EZ-Lube feature where there is a grease fitting on the axle end? Did you use that fitting?

[rhagfo]

opnspaces wrote:
Shoes are usually sold in pairs. You can buy complete brake and backing plate assembly for about $50.

I personally would not replace brakes on just one side. You will never find replacement shoes with the same friction as the other side.

As far as the grabbing. That could be that the shoes are contaminated. Another reason though could be the grabbing brakes are extremely out of adjustment.

No I would never hit the brake shoes with a belt sander.

X2
Replace both sides on that axle.

[opnspaces]

Shoes are usually sold in pairs. You can buy complete brake and backing plate assembly for about $50.

I personally would not replace brakes on just one side. You will never find replacement shoes with the same friction as the other side.

As far as the grabbing. That could be that the shoes are contaminated. Another reason though could be the grabbing brakes are extremely out of adjustment.

No I would never hit the brake shoes with a belt sander.