Short Bed to Long Bed

[SALTYDOG5435S-T]

I have a F-250 and Lance 845 at this time. Due to rust issues I need a New truck. It looks as if I am going to get a F-350 long bed with a 7.3 diesel. It is an older truck but I could not find a V10 I liked. I am and have always been a ford man. Noting against the others but I am who I am.

I am going to build a frame of 2x6 or 8 or 10 (not sure of the best size just yet) for the camper to butt up against. I am using the Happyjack tie down system just now. I have been thinking of going to the torque lift system. Of course I will be doing the same things as I did to the 250. New shocks, stable loads, and tires. Also looking at new sway bars. Also we are considering a new camper in a few years.

Now the questions. I know I am not the first to do this but I was unable to find any threads that discussed this. If you did this what tie down system did you use. How did it work? How long did you run like this? How did you like it?

Any comments are welcome. And thanks for looking.
SALTYDOG

[SALTYDOG5435S-T]

@ steel hog, Thanks for the information. I will be looking into everything you listed. As for the nose down, I will see how it sets after the camper is on.

@ big rig, thanks for the reply. We are looking forward to our first trip. A short one of about 400 miles empty. We have a lot to learn.

[Big_Rig]

Nice truck. That 7.3 is a workhorse and your gonna love it. Just do what Steelhog recommends to help prevent future problems. We just got back home from a 1400 mile trip from Oregon to Tahoe area and back and our 2000 7.3 performed like a champ. Wouldn't even know we had 4k in the bed of the truck. Enjoy.

[Steelhog]

Good looking truck. Not a big fan of the heavy steel bumper other than it gives some protection to the coolers. The stock bumper is flimsy. If you have a laptop get the AutoEnginuity software with the enhanced Ford module. Great for troubleshooting. Definitely install a good gauge set. http://www.dieselmanor.com/gauges/ford_kits/dm-gkf-rxx39903.asp
You really need to watch the trans temp as the stock cooler is undersize and you can cook the 4R100. By the time the dash gauge reacts your done. Depending on load I'd also suggest installing the trans cooler from a 6.0. It is amazing how fast your EGT will climb pulling a big hill and there again temperature can kill a turbo. Turn your spare tire winch tube 90° so it point into the wheel well. If you want to get rid of the nose down look replace the front spring with the ones used in the plow package. Carry an extra CPS (Crank Position Sensor) as they are known to die at inopportune moments. You need to know about Bob Bergman at Diesel O'rings. Same for a fuel filter. Bob has them at a great price and you can't change them too often on a 7.3.

[gdavidg]

Did not do SB camper in LB truck, but did go with Torklift. the company is great to work with, answers all questions quickly. They will adapt to your current situation with a segment of chain, mine came with about 18 inches plus a D ring on each.

When you get a longbed camper you will be ready to go. Would go with the fastguns if in budget, nice and quick adjustment when camper is not installed on truck exactly the same.

Know you don't want COG input so none offered. Do check the rear axle loading, it may be larger than you expect.

[SALTYDOG5435S-T]

I found a 2002 F-350 long bed, 7.3 diesel Loaded. This thing is sweet. I have not started to get it ready for the camper. That will happen soon.

I said I would add pictures. So here goes:







I have not had it a week. When the marriage happens I will post pictures.

[mkirsch]

I've seen it done plenty of times, here on this forum, and a few in person.

There's really nothing to it but common sense. Load it in and chain it down. Use the 18" in front of the camper for whatever you want. Probably a good idea to build a robust frame to hold the camper in place.

The front tiedowns will have quite an angle to them, but unless you build your own custom tiedowns you are stuck with what you get.

[SALTYDOG5435S-T]

Thanks again for all of the replies.

@wnjj, I should have looked at your link before I last posted. It is exactly what I was looking for. The link had a couple of good examples showing what I am about to do. Gives me more confidence and ideas. Thank You.

@racedrvr, Thanks for your input. After looking at the link sent by wnjj, I will be going with the torque lift tie down system. The angle of the front tie down when using the Happijac system looks to be to sharp for me. I will ask an engineer about it and his recommendations for the spacer for the camper. Nice having a civil engineer as a brother-in-law.

@dave17352, Thanks for the idea. I had not thought about a fuel tank. I had thought about placing the genny in the space but not a tool box or a fuel tank.

Man do I have a lot of thinking and searching to do. I have been over loaded with Ideas. This is what makes this forum so great.

Thanks to all for looking and to those who replied. (Including the weight police.) Now to get the truck and go to work. My lovely bride of 30+ years wants to go to Iowa in it. Some women are never happy.
SALTYDOG

Yes I will post pictures.

[dave17352]

When I did the same I put a 50 gallon aux tank in front. Worked great for spacing and love that extra diesel.

[steve68steve]

I have the truck you're getting.

I can't picture an SB TC on a LB pickup with Happy Jack tie downs. Doesn't the front HJ apparatus sit between the bed and cab, higher than the bottom of the bed? If you have 2' of construction/ tool box/ generator/ whatever between the front of your TC and the cab, wouldn't that put tie-downs at a weird angle? Wouldn't they limit access to your "forward" area as they would have to transit this space?

I put the torque lifts on mine. The rears are ludicrously simple to install; the front was a bit of a PITA on the driver side of mine because the frame bracket bolts behind the fuel tank. It's a bit fiddly.
I'm using chains and turnbuckles for now, and the path between the front driver's side torque lift and my TC tie-down point brings the chain right in front of the gas filler cap door - I have to release the tie-down to fuel up. If it was a lot more annoying (or I had a lot more money), I'd get Fastguns; for now, I'm just living with it.

EDIT: just to be clear - my TC is made for a long bed. If the TC's tie downs were further back (like they would be on a SB TC), the tie-downs probably wouldn't block the fuel filler.

[racedrvr]

I have a shortbed camper on a longbed. I use a tool box in the bed for a spacer. It gives extra secure storage capacity too.
Keep in mind the campers front tie downs will be 18" or so further rearward of the trucks attachment point. You will need to extend whatever tiedown you use. For those with a dually it is very dicey to clear the fender because of this.

[SALTYDOG5435S-T]

First, I would like to thank all for looking and those who replied.

COG, I have studied to a great extent. In fact I turned down a couple of campers because the COG would not work on a short bed. As stated the extra length is between the cab and the rear wheel.

I do not want a dully. I have looked at them and seriously considered them. They just do not fit with where I will be spending most of my camping trips. Past the 4X4 sign on Padre Island National Seashore.

The weight issue I will deal with as I go along. I do not plan on getting a 3k camper for my next camper.

I read this board almost daily. I enjoy the trip reports and discussions about TC issues. I just would like to hear from people who have done what I am about to do. (Not receive a lecture on COG and weight issues.)

Thanks again on the comments and for all that have read this.
SALTYDOG

[Desertboy]

I need to subscribe to this one just in case, because Im doing the same thing. I changed from a f150 to a 3/4 ton Dodge 12 valve,

[trail-explorer]

I'd highly recommend the Torklift frame mounted tie dow system. It gives a rock solid mount between the truck and the fram.

[wnjj]

Golden_HVAC wrote:
However that might put the camper center of gravity further back over the rear axle, farther back than designed. With a dually, it will not matter, however with 16" rims and 3,042 pound rated tires (235/85R16E is standard with that truck) you might overload them. Moving the load forward even 12" will put much more of the weight on the front axle, and not also be taking weight off the front axle by having more hanging off the back of the truck.

The camper COG will be in the same spot relative to the rear axle on the long bed truck. The extra bed length is in front of the axle. Adding cargo in the "gap" in front of the camper will effectively move the cargo (camper + stuff) COG more forward than with the short bed.