Sway control bar >>>

[kennyd63]

I have a 25 footer T.T. which it sways when windy conditions are present, and semis pass me by.
I am looking on buying a sway bar control bar made by Husky, I notice they sell a right hand and a left hand. My question is on the catalogue they recommend that I buy the L/H and R/H is this is really necessary?.:h

Please advise

Thank you to all for your input in this matter.

[owenssailor]

I used the ezelift system and sway control bar with a previous smaller lighter trailer. It is not nearly as good as my equal-i zer. I do not get pushed around by transports passiing

[beemerphile1]

First step is to resolve whatever is causing the sway, then consider an anti-sway device.

[hohenwald48]

Jeremiah,
Thanks for the reply. I frequently hear folks say the friction device built into various hitch designs is somehow superior to the Husky type friction bars. I also hear them say the hitch with built in friction sway control "prevents" sway while the Husky type bars only "control" it.

That sounds like something you'd expect to hear from a politician instead of an RV'r. I just don't understand how they are different as they both use friction as the sway controlling force and they just go about creating that friction in different manners.

[jerem0621]

hohenwald48 wrote:

ReferDog wrote:
Get an Equal-lzier with correct bar's 1000 or 1200# go by hitch weight

Why is that better? What's wrong with the add on friction devices?

Absolutely NOTHING. Both types are friction sway controls.

The only difference is that in order to increase friction on an Equal-i-zer and the clones is to increase tongue weight and adjust the hitch.

Sorry, its not for me... I much prefer my old fashioned WD hitches and sway bars... and yes I tried the new fangled expensive hitches... they offer zero over a well set up standard hitch and friction sway control (two if towing 24 ft long or more)... as a matter of fact they can be a negative

If you set up a integrated hitch incorrectly then you have a terrible handling rig.. at least with an add on sway control you can retain friction sway control if the WD hitch isn't dialed in... or heaven forbid.. you experience a WD hitch failure. (Something I have experienced with dual cam sway control and it is NO fun)

I have a back up Weight Carrying draw bar with a sway bar tab that travels with me when I tow. That way I can pull my trailer and use my sway bar in the event of another WD hitch failure.

When we go back to a TT I will do the same... I will have a WC draw bar with dual friction sway bar mounts welded on that will stay with me every time I tow.

Nothing worse than being ready to leave the campground or on the side of the road with a broke hitch and no safe way to get the trailer home. Something a simple draw bar with a few sway bar tabs could do easily.

That means having a vehicle that can handle WC of the tongue weight that your vehicle has.. but thats for another thread.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[hohenwald48]

ReferDog wrote:
Get an Equal-lzier with correct bar's 1000 or 1200# go by hitch weight

Why is that better? What's wrong with the add on friction devices?

[ReferDog]

Get an Equal-lzier with correct bar's 1000 or 1200# go by hitch weight

[hohenwald48]

You can get Curt sway controls from Amazon for around $39. They make a driver side and pax side. For some reason the Driver side was around $80 and the pax side was $39. I bought two pax side units. Took the bar out of one and flipped it over for the drivers side. Works fine except the name sticker is upside down.

[GrandpaKip]

kennyd63 wrote:
I have a 25 footer T.T. which it sways when windy conditions are present, and semis pass me by.
I am looking on buying a sway bar control bar made by Husky, I notice they sell a right hand and a left hand. My question is on the catalogue they recommend that I buy the L/H and R/H is this is really necessary?.:h

Please advise

Thank you to all for your input in this matter.

Are you sure the camper is swaying? Does it keep wiggling after the semi has passed or does it immediately go back to tracking straight? Just about any rig is going to get pushed around by gusts or passing semis. Before I got our Andersen hitch, we had the EZ Lift. I never had any real sway problems, but didn't like the little wiggles from being passed. I installed one sway bar and it helped. Then the truck and trailer moved as a unit. The Andersen hitch does the same. I would just get one bar to start.
Good luck.

[Terryallan]

In truth it shouldn't sway period, UNLESS, you induce sway during some sort of emergency maneuver where you jerk the steering wheel..
Best advice. Adjust the hitch to the point the Tt does not sway in normal driving. THEN add sway control, for those times when you HAVE to jerk it around. For you see. Sway control bars do NOT prevent sway. That is not their function. they are only to help regain control once sway is introduced to the equasion

[owenssailor]

I think the factors are:
enough tongue weight - more helps
trailer level or a bit nose down - never nose up
a good hitch system - I like my Equal-i-zer
all tires at max pressure

[campigloo]

Kenny, don't let people convince you that sway control is just a gimmick. No, it shouldn't sway at all under ideal conditions. Windy areas and large vehicles will push any of them. That sudden gust of wind that comes from nowhere; that stretch of asphalt with a rut in the middle of can cause problems. Just make sure it tracks straight on good roads in calm wind then add your sway control. Cheap insurance to keep it handling well. Don't let pride talk you out of it.

[Tachdriver]

My two cents. My sig has my stats on it. Mine came with one and ended up buying two, so much more stable when trucks and large vehicles pass. I believe the cost was $80? Well worth it. Trailer is about 6,500 pounds behind a half ton.

[lanerd]

I assume you have some sort of weight distribution set up...if yes, many can be converted to a Reese Dual Cam system that has built in sway control and will work much better than either a single or double anti-sway friction bar. The cost is a little more, but you will get much better performance.

Good luck and hope this helps

Ron

[bobndot]

Before you buy special equipment searching for a solution ,
make sure you have enough tongue weight .
The design of certain trailers and the placement of the axles on the frame of such trailers can be the culprit.

There are ways to mod a TT to cure this, adjustments can be made and might be, money well spent . The most common reason for sway is not a lack of a sway control bar . Least expensive way is , move items in the TT forward to transfer weight. Try that , then road test it .

Adding sway control is helping but not attacking the core of the problem, its just masking it. A strong enough crosswind or bow wind from a passing truck can overcome sway bars if you have not addressed the core problem. Don't be fooled by a false sense of security because you added a sway bar and it feels better in a moderate wind.

Other factors involve the tow vehicles wheelbase, overhang distance from the tv rear axle to the ball .