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Tire failure on trailer

petendoll
Explorer
Explorer
I have a Forest River Flagstaff V-Lite 26wrb. Dry weight 5800. Actual scale weight this trip 6400.

The trailer is a 2012. Bought it used with less than 3000 miles on it. All tires were inflated to 50psi to specs. Tires are Chinese Trail Express ST225/75R15 Load Range C. 2150# @ 50psi.

Driving 55 when a tire blew out in the middle of the tread. Must be a manufacture defect.
The load range on these tires seems very low. Shouldn't they be E range?

I intend to replace all of these. Will consider several brands I see recommended on here.

I am interested in what you all think of these tires I have. They seem pretty light duty to me.
We have moved from a motorhome to a TT. This has been a learning process. I thought I had all of it sorted out then this deal popped up. Pun intended.

All advice on how to go is welcome. There isn't a better place than this forum to learn from those with the most experience. Thanks in advance.
32 REPLIES 32

Nvr2loud
Explorer II
Explorer II
rbpru wrote:
Changing tires and upping the load rating my make you feel good, but it does not change the TT axle rating.

Your new tires may be able to carry 1000 lbs. more than the old ones but they do not increase TT load rating.



Good point, but sometimes the tire load maximum is the 'weakest' link on a trailer. I have two 3500 lb axles, and my max trailer weight fully loaded is listed as 5870 lbs. In theory my trailer should be okay for 7000 lbs if the frame, tires, rims, are capable of taking that load.

In reality, the factory installed (4) B rated ST tires with a combined maximum load of 5400 lbs and I suppose the extra 470 lbs would be considered transferred by the tongue to the truck. When I replaced those B rated tires with C rated tires, my tire rating went up above 6000 lbs. I'm still below the axle ratings, but feel much safer then relying on the tongue weight to keep me below tire max.

My trailer fully-loaded for a 10 day trip, including water, was weighed at 6006 lbs.

TucsonJim
Explorer II
Explorer II
You said they put heavy duty valve stems on. Are these metal or rubber valve stems? When you put on a TPMS, most manufacturers specify that you use metal stems due to the forces the TPMS can put on the stem.
2016 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel SRW 4x4
2017 Grand Design Reflection 297RSTS
2013 Ford F350 Turbo Diesel SRW 4x4 (Destroyed by fire - 8/29/16)
2014 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS (Destroyed by fire - 8/29/16)

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
Glad you got that taken care of!

petendoll
Explorer
Explorer
New tires are on my TT. When I had my motorhome I used a truck tire center for all my tire needs. I found they were more knowledgeable concerning heavy vehicles than some of the other places I dealt with. So I decided to take my TT to them and get their opinion.

They have never seen a C load range tire in the large size I have, ST225/75R15. They said the tire is way undersized for the trailer. They couldn't believe it was even legal to put it on a vehicle of this size. It was only 5 plys tread. They would be ok for a light utility trailer but that is about all. They said the tire was not damaged by road debris. The tread separated and blew. On the Forest River forum they call the Trail Express tires Trail Explodes so I guess I'm not the first one to experience this. Most there said they are only good for about 3000 miles then the fireworks start.

Now I have load range E 10 ply tread tires. They said I should run them at 65 lbs though they are rated for a max of 80lbs. They also installed heavy duty valve stems. They never led me astray with the motorhome so I trust their judgment with this. These guys do this everyday on large vehicles. I feel confident things will be good now. I think I will get the TPMS. It is very difficult to tell when a tire is going down or gone flat. Thanks for all the helpful comments.

Need-A-Vacation
Explorer
Explorer
Glad to hear all made it off the road safely!!!

I know I keep considering a tpms for the trailer. On the to do list!

Burb,

Sounds like it was an area where a set of frs radios (or even cb's) would have been handy.
Bubba J- '13 Chevy Silverado 2500HD LT CCSB 4x4 6.0

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jerem0621
Explorer II
Explorer II
I put Maxxis M008's on my awesome pup. I'Be had good service out of Maxxis before.

Once I went to our local campground, 15 min away from home, got the TT in the site, backed in and level and I heard this hissing sound.

Turns out one of my M008's had a screw in them and a slow leak....had we been on a long trip I am sure I would not have noticed it from the drivers seat. I would have likely shredded that tire.

So now… I am looking to invest in a TPMS for the awesome pup. I may be the only person in the USA with a TPMS on a pop up but I feel it's prudent.

Thanks!

Jeremiah
TV-2022 Silverado 2WD
TT - Zinger 270BH
WD Hitch- HaulMaster 1,000 lb Round Bar
Dual Friction bar sway control

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rbpru
Explorer II
Explorer II
Changing tires and upping the load rating my make you feel good, but it does not change the TT axle rating.

Your new tires may be able to carry 1000 lbs. more than the old ones but they do not increase TT load rating.

Are Load range E more durable that load range C? We like to think so. But does more weight carrying capacity translate to a safer tire? Again, we like to think so.

Unfortunately most of this is just intuitive feelings. The only hard facts are there are millions of TT tires sold every year and perhaps a few tens of thousands upgraded tires; so there is no way to do a legitimate comparison of failure rate.

Right of wrong, one simply has to trust their gut feeling and act accordingly.
Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.

JIMNLIN
Explorer
Explorer
Bob/Olallawa wrote:
petendoll wrote:
BurbMan wrote:

OK, then you need to check the load rating on the rims...going to a higher rated tire won't help you if you exceed the load rating on the rim. Rims are rated either for load or psi, sometimes both, and those ratings are stamped on the rim. Unfortunately, sometimes they are stamped inside so you need to dismount the tire to see them.

Typically the ratings of the rims are matched to the ratings of the tires, and upgrading the load capacity of the tires would cause them to exceed the load capacity of the rims.

You may not need new rims, but don't assume you don't, either.

I checked the rim. It has the same load rating as the C load range tire it came with, 2150. If I could run 65 psi with the E load range tire, I would feel better while keeping the load under 2150. As long as I don't exceed the weight the pressure should be ok, the rim says nothing about pressure just weight.


If you only run with 65 PSI you might as well buy "D" instead of "E"

Nothing is gained by derating a E rated tire down to 65 psi other than a hotter running tire. The benefit of the E tire comes only at those higher pressures
Rims have max pressures also. Just because some 15" rims don't have a pressure sticker/tag/stamped on it anywhere don't just assume it can hold 65 or even 80 psi. And just because some over pressures his wheels and gets by with doing so doesn't mean others should. And just because someone says they haven't a cracked wheel complaint on a RV web doesn't mean much either.
Your wheel manufacturer can give you the facts on that issue.
I've split my share of steel wheels on trucks and trailers from over pressure. The steel wheel will usually split around the tire bead seat
flange. And aluminum wheels will usually crack the valleys or the bead seat flange.

I would take load and pressure maximums serious when it comes to tires and wheels.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
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Bob_Olallawa
Explorer
Explorer
petendoll wrote:
BurbMan wrote:

OK, then you need to check the load rating on the rims...going to a higher rated tire won't help you if you exceed the load rating on the rim. Rims are rated either for load or psi, sometimes both, and those ratings are stamped on the rim. Unfortunately, sometimes they are stamped inside so you need to dismount the tire to see them.

Typically the ratings of the rims are matched to the ratings of the tires, and upgrading the load capacity of the tires would cause them to exceed the load capacity of the rims.

You may not need new rims, but don't assume you don't, either.


I checked the rim. It has the same load rating as the C load range tire it came with, 2150. If I could run 65 psi with the E load range tire, I would feel better while keeping the load under 2150. As long as I don't exceed the weight the pressure should be ok, the rim says nothing about pressure just weight.


If you only run with 65 PSI you might as well buy "D" instead of "E"
Welcome to my home, that door you just broke down was there for your protection not mine.

coolbreeze01
Explorer
Explorer
petendoll wrote:

I checked the rim. It has the same load rating as the C load range tire it came with, 2150. If I could run 65 psi with the E load range tire, I would feel better while keeping the load under 2150. As long as I don't exceed the weight the pressure should be ok, the rim says nothing about pressure just weight.


Sounds like you have a 5 lug x 6" wide rim. With an E rated tire, I would run 70 to 80 psi.

If you only want to run 65lb, then a D rated tire might be a better match.

I don't believe a reputable tire shop would mount an unsafe combination. Too much risk of problems coming back to bite them.
2008 Ram 3500 With a Really Strong Tractor Motor...........
LB, SRW, 4X4, 6-Speed Auto, 3.73, Prodigy P3, Blue Ox Sway Pro........
2014 Sandsport 26FBSL

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
BurbMan wrote:
coolbreeze01 wrote:
No need to change rims to run higher load range tires.

From the Carlisle Tire site:

"What is the maximum psi limitation for your trailer wheels?

Max air capacities are typically a function of the tire, not the wheel. Unlike tires, the load rating of a wheel is not generally dependent on the operating pressure. The wheels themselves are manufactured and tested to a load rating (without consideration of pressure) and can safely support that load. As long as the load is within the limits of our wheel's load rating in pounds, our product will perform as expected."


OK, then you need to check the load rating on the rims...going to a higher rated tire won't help you if you exceed the load rating on the rim. Rims are rated either for load or psi, sometimes both, and those ratings are stamped on the rim. Unfortunately, sometimes they are stamped inside so you need to dismount the tire to see them.

Typically the ratings of the rims are matched to the ratings of the tires, and upgrading the load capacity of the tires would cause them to exceed the load capacity of the rims.

You may not need new rims, but don't assume you don't, either.


And a lot of times the wheel load/psi ratings are stamped in the valley of rim.......inside where it isn't seen until a tire is removed.
Is it time for your medication or mine?


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petendoll
Explorer
Explorer
BurbMan wrote:

OK, then you need to check the load rating on the rims...going to a higher rated tire won't help you if you exceed the load rating on the rim. Rims are rated either for load or psi, sometimes both, and those ratings are stamped on the rim. Unfortunately, sometimes they are stamped inside so you need to dismount the tire to see them.

Typically the ratings of the rims are matched to the ratings of the tires, and upgrading the load capacity of the tires would cause them to exceed the load capacity of the rims.

You may not need new rims, but don't assume you don't, either.


I checked the rim. It has the same load rating as the C load range tire it came with, 2150. If I could run 65 psi with the E load range tire, I would feel better while keeping the load under 2150. As long as I don't exceed the weight the pressure should be ok, the rim says nothing about pressure just weight.

BurbMan
Explorer II
Explorer II
coolbreeze01 wrote:
No need to change rims to run higher load range tires.

From the Carlisle Tire site:

"What is the maximum psi limitation for your trailer wheels?

Max air capacities are typically a function of the tire, not the wheel. Unlike tires, the load rating of a wheel is not generally dependent on the operating pressure. The wheels themselves are manufactured and tested to a load rating (without consideration of pressure) and can safely support that load. As long as the load is within the limits of our wheel's load rating in pounds, our product will perform as expected."


OK, then you need to check the load rating on the rims...going to a higher rated tire won't help you if you exceed the load rating on the rim. Rims are rated either for load or psi, sometimes both, and those ratings are stamped on the rim. Unfortunately, sometimes they are stamped inside so you need to dismount the tire to see them.

Typically the ratings of the rims are matched to the ratings of the tires, and upgrading the load capacity of the tires would cause them to exceed the load capacity of the rims.

You may not need new rims, but don't assume you don't, either.

petendoll
Explorer
Explorer
Burbman, that tire is a mess. Ours was still in tact as we got stopped fairly quickly. I have a backup camera installed on the back of my trailer that has audio. We heard it go over that. I like the audio for backing into a site. Saves the wife screaming at me and drawing attention to my poor backing ability. 🙂