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TorkLift Upper Stable loads installation?

Blanco1
Explorer
Explorer
Have any of you installed them before?

I just got my set & ready to install them especially being I'm considering a multi slide out Camper up-grade.

Looks simple enough on how to do the job.
Tomorrow is my 1st free day in a while & while I have so many other things I need to do, I'm hoping to fit tho into the days schedule.

I've looked on youtube & can't find a single video?

I'm assuming being its such a no Brainer that nobody has bother with posting a video?

Am I right?

I'm not the mechanically inclined guy I use to be in my youth.

Thanks in advance for any helpful info you might have in advance.
1997 Dodge 4x4, 5 spd manual trans & HotRod 5.9 cummins.
With '85 Lance.
31 REPLIES 31

Blanco1
Explorer
Explorer
Tom_Anderson wrote:
I know this really doesn't answer the OP's question at all, but on my F-250, I swapped out the factory overload leaves for new ones meant for a newer F-450. They have quite a bit more arch, plus a higher spring rate, so they accomplish the same thing as the StableLoads. The best part is, they cost me under $100, brand new.


Thanks for the tip!
1997 Dodge 4x4, 5 spd manual trans & HotRod 5.9 cummins.
With '85 Lance.

Tom_Anderson
Explorer
Explorer
I know this really doesn't answer the OP's question at all, but on my F-250, I swapped out the factory overload leaves for new ones meant for a newer F-450. They have quite a bit more arch, plus a higher spring rate, so they accomplish the same thing as the StableLoads. The best part is, they cost me under $100, brand new.

gregchambers
Explorer
Explorer
I can't help with the Dodge specifics but on my GMC the upper overload spring perches were arched also. The pads came off easily enough and the new TL upper stable loads went on with not too much trouble. It lifted the camper just enough and the ride seems better as well! One stable load came off while underway, somewhere unknown, hopefully it didn't take out someone's radiator, windshield, etc. It was amazing as the stud, nut and washer were in place but the big stable load was gone! I contacted TL (outstanding customer service)and they sent me a complete new set of stable loads along with a set of new arched plates that when combined with the arched perches on the GMC provided a flat surface for the stable loads to land on that eliminated the potential for them to "rock". The holes in my perches were actually slots and the washer that TL supplied was having a hard time spanning the slot so I purchased four 3/8" ID "Unistrut" 1/4" thick square washers from HD which span the slots much better than the standard washers did. I also cut the threaded studs shorter to make the installation easier in the tight quarters under the wheel wells. Remember to put the nut on before cutting the studs so you can use the nut to "chase" the threads otherwise with the fine threads TL uses you could be looking for a Die.

AnEv942
Nomad
Nomad
Cant imagine that would be very entertaining...amazing what you can do when not knowing any better.
I changed spring packs in our jeep that were way too soft, ended up adding/swapping around & replacing a few leaves, cutting down some older heavier leaves. To regain friction pads I had to drill. 2 rears leaves I only had to add hole at one end, fronts 2 leaves that needed holes both ends. Drilled 6 holes in the ends of reworked leaves for friction pads. I don't recall it being fun, till on 6th hole chipped flute and had to run up bit sizes to get close enough. Bit was nothing special, 5/8" HS, possibly cutting/retapering softened the metal.

mute as Motes post also gives info that OP wont need to drill.

I hadn't seen that metal frame earlier on the stable loads, I assume that acts as sort of a saddle to help stabilize. I do question the stick out length of bolt, though some application require use of spacers to adjust contact. (not an issue on the older Dodge it appears 🙂
01 Ford F250 4x4 DRW Diesel, 01 Elkhorn 9U
Our camper projects page http://www.ourelkhorn.itgo.com

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Mine were installed on my '04 Dodge 3500 DRW by the original owner. I think they are installed correctly. They are in contact the full with of the spring, same as the originals. The photo is with my TC loaded.




I would definitely call the manufacture for clarification. Looking at the thickness of the Stable loads, I think maybe your springs are weak and need to be re-arched. I find it hard to believe it was their intent to have the Stable loads engaged full time or be installed every time you hauled a heavy load. Think about it, the sole purpose of the Stable loads is to engage the overload springs sooner. Most trucks have 4 to 5 inches clearance. The Stable Loads typically reduce it by 3 inches. This still leaves 1 to 2 inches travel before engagement.


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
AnEv942 wrote:
Really... that's supposed to work? One size fits all... Even if removing the original rubber and happened there's a hole or end up drilling how does a flat bottom bolt to a curved surface? If there was a hole I assume it'd be centered so contact would be off, further working the bolt. Goofy IMO

Has some one actually done this?

If I had to use those Id be inclined to pull the o'ls, drill and mount to top leave, clearance hole the bottom leave so they could still move independently.If I had to use those Id be inclined to pull the o'ls, drill and mount to top leave, clearance hole the bottom leave so they could still move independently.
Or someone should design replacement brackets. Bewildered...
Given the weight you plan seems being in the LA area a decent spring shop could be found at reasonable cost to replace springs.

Probably just me- I don't get it, never looked at them before.
I just looked at my truck, 01 Ford. Not as much curve as yours-different, think they might work. Springs are flatter in relation to less curved bracket. Plus it appears there would be, if any, a lot less engagement with no load. Curious.
Wonder how difficult to slide the stock rubber off to see if hole? Pulling all 4 four to drill sounds like work...


I'd like to watch you do that.....:R

In as much as your leaf springs are tempered, quenched and stress relieved (heat treated), drilling a hole will be impossible with a High Speed bit. Rockwell on a spring leaf will be in the mid to high 80's, not drillable with conventional means by a long shot. You could drill a hole with a High Rock die redlaim drill but your hardware store won't have one. Hi-Rock's are solid micrograin Tungsten Carbide btw.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

Mote
Explorer
Explorer
I have a 1996 dodge 2500 2wd. I put those on a couple years ago. Actually I should say I only put them on when carrying the truck camper. To install I have to put a floor jack under the hitch and jack up the truck a few inches to have enough room between the overloads and the stops. Because of this they are always engaged, even when there is not a load in the bed. This makes for a horrible ride empty. So that's why I only use them when camping.
For the initial install, I was able to pry off the rubber pad to drill a hole in each of those. The metal portion that is attached to the frame already had a hole big enough.



After installing and with the camper loaded the truck rides pretty level. Of course I'm grossly over my GVWR and right at the top of the tires rating. We're saving for a used dually before the next big trip.
2005 Dodge 3500
2001 Lance 1030
2006 Cougar 29RL

AnEv942
Nomad
Nomad

That would be my 1st inclination, longer length would be in line with length of spring. But unless there is a hole rear of bracket the one tab may need cut off? (Ford has a slot thouhg not that wide)

I dunno, except the bracket may not set in the recess of rectangular hole of bump stop base. Tabs outward (into upward curve) would give anti rotation, would help stabalize.
Given the contact area of spring and bump stop, lack of full support for base, Id be inclined to try, cant see it really making any differnace with forces applied the way it mounts but may not fit that way...
Instruction show no orientation? Second guessing T/Ls intent
01 Ford F250 4x4 DRW Diesel, 01 Elkhorn 9U
Our camper projects page http://www.ourelkhorn.itgo.com

Buzzcut1
Nomad II
Nomad II
this is how the upper and lower stable loads look on my F350 Dually

2011 F350 6.7L Diesel 4x4 CrewCab longbed Dually, 2019 Lance 1062, Torqlift Talons, Fast Guns, upper and lower Stable Loads, Super Hitch, 48" Super Truss, Airlift loadlifter 5000 extreme airbags

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Look at the seventh post on this thread. This is what the finished install should look like.
http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29225231/gotomsg/29225368.cfm#29225368


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

Blanco1
Explorer
Explorer
Heres a better look at the stops.

I don't know why the pictures came out sideways?


I was originally thinking they would mount this way?


But I'm starting to think maybe I'm wrong & they go this way so that this metal bracket helps level out the curve from the factory part?




Makes much more sense?
1997 Dodge 4x4, 5 spd manual trans & HotRod 5.9 cummins.
With '85 Lance.

Blanco1
Explorer
Explorer
AnEv942 wrote:
In the metal of the bracket itself...
the rubber sleeve has no holes, it might be pried between rubber and the metal to see if or where holes is. Stick a screw driver (dont tear it) between top rubber and the metal...Or prying between frame against the rubber, the sleeve 'might' come off. Or a sharp awl, poke middle of top downward.
What others have said is there is a hole in the metal-just covered by the rubber.



Oh ok, Now I get it.

I can be really dumb sometimes...

When I glanced at it & took the picture, & posted it from my phone I couldn't see much on the small screen, but now that I'm home, I see a much bigger picture & DOH!!!

Yes that a sleeve over the metal, yet looking at it in person, its so old & dirt covered it pretty much didn't look like a rubber sleeve, But now I see it.

I hope to be off this week end to remove one & see?
1997 Dodge 4x4, 5 spd manual trans & HotRod 5.9 cummins.
With '85 Lance.

Reddog1
Explorer II
Explorer II
Blanco1 wrote:
Reddog1 wrote:
Maybe I am missing something, but why not unbolt the brackets and drill the holes?

Unless you have the TC loaded in the photos, I don't see how the Stable Loads will ever not be engaged. As I recall, the Stable Loads are about 2" or more thick, and I only see about 1" or less between your bracket and spring.


Well that's my question, I guess I'm suppose to remove them & drill the holes & then reinstall them?

But of course the flat pad on such a curve concerns me.

I was hoping someone here has done this already that could show me a picture of how theirs turned out.
I am gonna stick my neck my neck out here. Call the manufacture. They have the correct answer. Several of us may, buy why listen to the monkey when you can listen to the organ grinder? You can send the manufacture an email, and post a copy of the response here.

Wayne
Moderator


2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda

Toad: 91 Zuke

AnEv942
Nomad
Nomad
In the metal of the bracket itself...
the rubber sleeve has no holes, it might be pried between rubber and the metal to see if or where holes is. Stick a screw driver (dont tear it) between top rubber and the metal...Or prying between frame against the rubber, the sleeve 'might' come off. Or a sharp awl, poke middle of top downward.
What others have said is there is a hole in the metal-just covered by the rubber.
01 Ford F250 4x4 DRW Diesel, 01 Elkhorn 9U
Our camper projects page http://www.ourelkhorn.itgo.com