Tow vehicle and everyday driveability question

[crimecrusher]

I have a 2012 WhiteHawk Jayco 28’ that is about 5800 dry and I guess may max is around 7000 fully loaded. I currently tow with a 2011 F150 5.0 with HD towing package and drive around 20k miles a year with 5-7k of that towing miles.

My truck seems to pull this fine and I get around 7-9 mpg towing and 16-17mpg around town not towing. I tow in the flat lands of Texas primarily, but am going to Colorado this summer and may do more of that in the future. My gas mileage is not great and I get a good portion of sway on the highway. If I can keep things around 60mph, it tows a lot better. I don’t have any plans to upgrade to a bigger TT for the next 4-5 years. In about 5 years, I’ll look at a 5th wheel and go bigger truck then.

I’ve been planning to get a 2015 F150 later this winter when they come out but upgrade to the Ecoboost and 4x4. Should this be fine or would I be better served to go ahead and get an F250 4x4 now before my 2000 mile trip to the mountains of Colorado this summer? Would an F250 gas or diesel not be cost effective for everyday driving and towing?

[crimecrusher]

APT wrote:

crimecrusher wrote:
I hear what you are saying and sounds like solid advice. However, I don't understand how to do what you are saying. I can take it to a scale and get a weight, but not sure what to do or what that weight means. I'm looking for information on how to do this.

Find a CAT Scale.

Tell the operator you want 3 passes so they offer a discount, like $10 first, $2 each additional.

Your 3 passes are:
Truck and TT with WDH
Truck with TT without the WDH bars
Truck alone

The scale has 3 pads and you will want to get the trucks font axle on one, truck rear axle on another, and tt axles on the 3rd.

Report on here and some people will help.

Your goal is that the truck front axle with WDH is the same weight as truck alone, no trailer.

Got it, thanks.

In the meantime, I've decided on ordering a 2015 F150 supercrew lariat with EcoBoost 4x4. I believe when properly equipped and set up the F150 will meet my tow needs for the next 4-5 years and give me the best fuel economy when not towing. The F250 only had a few inches of garage clearance, about $6k higher price, poor MPG when not towing, and overkill which I'm ok with.

[APT]

crimecrusher wrote:
I hear what you are saying and sounds like solid advice. However, I don't understand how to do what you are saying. I can take it to a scale and get a weight, but not sure what to do or what that weight means. I'm looking for information on how to do this.

Find a CAT Scale.

Tell the operator you want 3 passes so they offer a discount, like $10 first, $2 each additional.

Your 3 passes are:
Truck and TT with WDH
Truck with TT without the WDH bars
Truck alone

The scale has 3 pads and you will want to get the trucks font axle on one, truck rear axle on another, and tt axles on the 3rd.

Report on here and some people will help.

Your goal is that the truck front axle with WDH is the same weight as truck alone, no trailer.

[pappcam]

crimecrusher wrote:
I have a 2012 WhiteHawk Jayco 28’ that is about 5800 dry and I guess may max is around 7000 fully loaded. I currently tow with a 2011 F150 5.0 with HD towing package and drive around 20k miles a year with 5-7k of that towing miles.

My truck seems to pull this fine and I get around 7-9 mpg towing and 16-17mpg around town not towing. I tow in the flat lands of Texas primarily, but am going to Colorado this summer and may do more of that in the future. My gas mileage is not great and I get a good portion of sway on the highway. If I can keep things around 60mph, it tows a lot better. I don’t have any plans to upgrade to a bigger TT for the next 4-5 years. In about 5 years, I’ll look at a 5th wheel and go bigger truck then.

I’ve been planning to get a 2015 F150 later this winter when they come out but upgrade to the Ecoboost and 4x4. Should this be fine or would I be better served to go ahead and get an F250 4x4 now before my 2000 mile trip to the mountains of Colorado this summer? Would an F250 gas or diesel not be cost effective for everyday driving and towing?

I took my truck and trailer in my signature which is about 600lbs. lighter to the Black Hills last summer and had no problems. It needed to rev high on some steep inclines but that's how that engine is designed.

Keep your speed around 60-62mph and your mileage should be consistently 9-10mpg.

[crimecrusher]

APT wrote:
Spend $14 at a CAT scale (3 passes) to find out your TW and how well the WDH is adjusted. Then evaluate how to improve. Improper TW and improperly adjusted WDH are the most likely causes for sway. You can mask it with a bigger truck, but why spend the money?

Also, my Reese straight line is picky about being adjusted such that the detents in the bars are centered on the cam lobes. When it's right, I'm solid up to 75mph. When it's not, 60mph is scary.

I hear what you are saying and sounds like solid advice. However, I don't understand how to do what you are saying. I can take it to a scale and get a weight, but not sure what to do or what that weight means. I'm looking for information on how to do this.

[crimecrusher]

Lowsuv wrote:
Lots of good answers proposed .
APT and Jeremiah make the most sense .
If you have sway it is necessary to weigh all of your axles hooked up and not hooked up .
You will be amazed at the shift of weight on each axle hooked up .
Heavy tongue weight mitigates sway .
A half ton will limit the tongue weight necessary to make your rig the safest .
With a 12 % to 15% tongue weight you have more controlled weight between the hitch and the trailer axles .
Commercial trucks have their axles at the ends of the trailer .
Travel trailers have all of that uncontrolled weight behind the centered axles and that weight is on a lever .
F250 for big brakes , heavier payload to take that GOOD heavy tongue weight .
The heavy duty components of the F250 will last longer than the lighter weight components of the F150 assuming the same load usage .
The scales are your friend .
If you can adjust your tongue weight upward that would be safest at any speed .

That makes sense. For some reason, I figured it would be best to take as much tongue weight off as I could. I've adjusted my WDH to keep everything level without thinking about putting a little more weight on the tongue. When I purchased it, they set it up a little lower in the front, I'll put it back like it was set up before.

[Lowsuv]

Lots of good answers proposed .
APT and Jeremiah make the most sense .
If you have sway it is necessary to weigh all of your axles hooked up and not hooked up .
You will be amazed at the shift of weight on each axle hooked up .
Heavy tongue weight mitigates sway .
A half ton will limit the tongue weight necessary to make your rig the safest .
With a 12 % to 15% tongue weight you have more controlled weight between the hitch and the trailer axles .
Commercial trucks have their axles at the ends of the trailer .
Travel trailers have all of that uncontrolled weight behind the centered axles and that weight is on a lever .
F250 for big brakes , heavier payload to take that GOOD heavy tongue weight .
The heavy duty components of the F250 will last longer than the lighter weight components of the F150 assuming the same load usage .
The scales are your friend .
If you can adjust your tongue weight upward that would be safest at any speed .

[sgrizzle]

Your truck will be fine. I have a 2010 F150 Supercrew w/5.4L. My TT is a 2009 Laredo, 31'. We have been to Yellowstone and Colorado and did great.

I, too, had some issues with sway...I figured out I needed a little more wt on the tongue to help with sway. Much better. My gas mileage while towing ranges from 8-12 mpg.

I also am looking at the 2015 F150. THe 700# increase in payload would be huge. I don't really need the 250 Super Duty, except if I ever upgrade to a fifth wheel in the future....but I have a hard time with the $15,000+ to do it.

[2012Coleman]

crimecrusher wrote:

AirForceAngler wrote:
Sounds to me like you just want a new truck! 😉

True 🙂 It's time to get a new truck. If a F150 properly equipped will do fine, I'll wait and get the 2015. But If I should go to a F250, I'll do it soon before my summer trip since the 2015's are on the lots. My longest tow trip was 9 hours and I couldn't wait for it to end. This summer is going to be 18 hours one way. I know an F150 will do the job, but if a F250 will do it much better, more comfortable, and safer without killing my gas bill on every day driving...that's what I'll do.

I've been pulling with my F150 for 3 years and have never towed with HD truck before. So, I have no idea how it will do. Unfortunately I can't borrow a new truck F250, take it on a trip then decide to buy it. I've never weighed my TT but next time out I'll do that. I'm guessing I'm around 7k pounds and would be shocked to see me up around 8K pounds.

2014 Ram 2500 can be had with a 6.4 liter hemi. They also have tow/non tow mode so cylinders will deactivate when not towing.

[APT]

crimecrusher wrote:
If a F150 properly equipped will do fine...I'm around 7k pounds and would be shocked to see me up around 8K pounds.

My opinion is that 7-8k should be fine for your current truck and many other half tons. But stating that towing over 60mph is currently uncomfortable suggests either it is not or there is another problem with trailer balance, alignment, WDH adjustment, etc. If there is another problem, a bigger truck may not correct that.

[BurbMan]

Well if you're gonna buy a new truck anyways, get the 250 and be done with it. They don't ride like stagecoaches anymore....they are as quiet and comfortable as their 150 counterparts. You don't need a diesel for that load either....look at the V-10 or whatever gas motor Ford is offering these days.

[crimecrusher]

AirForceAngler wrote:
Sounds to me like you just want a new truck! 😉

True 🙂 It's time to get a new truck. If a F150 properly equipped will do fine, I'll wait and get the 2015. But If I should go to a F250, I'll do it soon before my summer trip since the 2015's are on the lots. My longest tow trip was 9 hours and I couldn't wait for it to end. This summer is going to be 18 hours one way. I know an F150 will do the job, but if a F250 will do it much better, more comfortable, and safer without killing my gas bill on every day driving...that's what I'll do.

I've been pulling with my F150 for 3 years and have never towed with HD truck before. So, I have no idea how it will do. Unfortunately I can't borrow a new truck F250, take it on a trip then decide to buy it. I've never weighed my TT but next time out I'll do that. I'm guessing I'm around 7k pounds and would be shocked to see me up around 8K pounds.

[AirForceAngler]

Sounds to me like you just want a new truck! 😉

[BurbMan]

APT wrote:
Right so you won't know unless you get actual weights for how you RV now. Only then will you know what (if anything) needs more capability or safety margin, or whatever. Until then all we random internet people can do is guess.

Yep.

[lbrjet]

I would prefer the 5.0 to the Ecoboost in the mountains for the extra engine braking capability. Coming down the mountain should be your concern, not going up. The F250 will do better coming down the mountain than either of those two, but your current truck/trailer combination should handle it fine. Maybe you need a better sway control system like the Equal-I-zer 4 point. You never really said what concerns you about Colorado.