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Trip to freezing area for a month - concerns

Well, work has been very poor for me locally where I live. Overall economy is quite down compared to years ago. I have found that it is only the beginning of the winter season and I have run out of work.

So, I decided to head to Calgary Alberta, with my TT in tow and work my butt off for at least a month to catch up, and put something into the reserves for the rest of the winter.

Not exactly something I want to do but I have to.

I'm not overly concerned about keeping the inside of my TT warm - I will find a place to plug in and run a small heater to supplement the furnace. I'll likely go through a lot of propane, but thats ok too.

I have been looking at the road conditions from the BC coast to Alberta. Not too good right now. Lots of snow on the roads and more coming. My truck is 4 wheel drive and my tires have nearly 80,000 miles on them. Going to cure that tomorrow morning with 6 new Michelins.(LTX M&S2)
Tires on the TT are like new.
Hopefully the trip through the mountains goes well. Just have to take it slow and careful.

When I'm in Calgary the temperature will likely be swinging from below freezing to sometimes above freezing. More likely more freezing than not when I get into December. I'm thinking about my waste tanks. Gotta use them but I'm thinking I may get a freezeup in the dump pipes and gate valves.

I am thinking of getting a heat tape and wrapping up the area to keep it from freezing. Have any of you done this? If so, how did it work?

I thought maybe I could find some quick and easy way to skirt the trailer in but I will be moving around a lot, taking it with me from jobsite to jobsite.


What do you guys think?

I don't want to get motels - too expensive and I hate motels.
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
RV Rebuild Website - Site launched Aug 22, 2021 - www.rv-rebuild.com
17 REPLIES 17

Chrisatthebeach
Explorer
Explorer
Meant to say 100 gallons for 169.00, was 1.69 per gallon.
Brain disconnect, happens with age.
Chris & Dianne
Jayco Designer 3110 SOLD 6-11-2016, looking for the next one.
F250 PSD 4x4 Crew Cab

CavemanCharlie
Explorer II
Explorer II
I don't think you meant to say that you bought the propane for $169.00 per gallon. Or, at least I hope not.

Chrisatthebeach
Explorer
Explorer
I did three winters in Ohio and northern Kentucky.
The first was in a travel trailer, no skirting. I did not use a heated hose, just filled the onboard tank as needed and drained and put away the water hose.
I did not have an extra propane tank, so every 5-6 days a trip to the Flying-J to fill a 7 gallon bottle, as soon as one emptied I filled it so that I always had propane, also kept another 4 gallon bottle as a reserve. I did use one ceramic cube heater to supplement the propane. No skirting, nothing froze but the floor was cold, did not have heated basement, just good insulation under the floor. No problems with frozen plumbing. Did have some nights down to -07 F.

Winter 2 was in the Jayco, a few things different. I knew that I was not moving so I skirted using 2x2 lumber for a frame between the bottom of the trailer and the ground and bought some bi-fold styrofoam backer board that is used behind vinyl siding and cut to size and skirted, taping the seams, also got a heat tape and pipe insulation and made a heated water hose and got a 100 gallon gas bottle filled prior to winter so that the propane was able to be bought for 169.00 per gallon. Floor was warm, did not have to worry with the water hose. I did use two ceramic heaters, one plugged in inside, the other I ran a heavy extension cord in through the opening with the shore power. I made it from the end of November until mid-February on the 100 gallons.

Winter 3 was the last, knew I would be moving before the end so no skirting. Did use the 100 gallon tank again. I bought one of the oil filled electric radiator heaters that I put on the heavy extension cord that I added the previous winter, this stayed on high all winter, also used two ceramic heaters, one on high and one on medium on the 30 amp side, these were on when I was in and off when I was gone. I made it through the winter without using up the 100 gallon bottle that time, at the end of winter it still had 50 gallons in it.

One thing to remember, if heating with electric, on super cold nights, back off on the electric and allow the furnace to run, on my Jayco the furnace heated the basement and while quite toasty I caught it in time that the plumbing was starting to freeze so I backed off on the electric when the temps went under 15 degrees to that the propane furnace would kick in and warm the water lines. On the travel trailer all of the lines ran along the street side wall behind furniture and cabinets, so just keeping the inside warm and the cabinet doors opened protected them, not sure how the water lines run in your unit, but something for you to check on. Also keep the water heater turned on when super cold, they will freeze and split the tank.
I did pitch the drain hose a good slope and never had to worry about a poopsicle, I kept the gray tank open and planned the black dump for the sunny part of the day.

I made it through just fine with lots of planning. Glad to be back south and hope to not have to do it again.
Chris & Dianne
Jayco Designer 3110 SOLD 6-11-2016, looking for the next one.
F250 PSD 4x4 Crew Cab

CavemanCharlie
Explorer II
Explorer II
Replacing the return grill on the furnace with a window fan sounds like a good idea. Keeps the air circulated where it should.

Thanks Don
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
RV Rebuild Website - Site launched Aug 22, 2021 - www.rv-rebuild.com

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi,

I've boondocked in Calgary where the high was -27 and it was blizzard conditions for five days. I did use a generator as there was no sun--and no shore power.

I "broke out" the converter from the main wiring board and added two heavy duty outlets. I used the same idea for the water heater. So I have the OEM power cord and two auxiliary cords. I use male and female plugs so I can switch back to OEM wiring in seconds.

That allows me to run up to three 15 amp circuits.

The outlets in RV's are junk. Replace the ones where you intend to plug in heaters.

3000 watts will keep an rv warm down to about -11 C. 4500 watts will get you down to -27c. Below that the propane furnace needs to be added to the mix.

You are going to need to protect the fridge. I use a tc-3 thermocube and a 40 watt light bulb.

I replaced the return air grill on the furnace with a window fan. This allows me to heat 100% electrically while keeping the fresh water plumbing from freezing up.

I have a fifty amp adapter that breaks out to one 30 amp and two 20 amp outlets. That lets me use up to 8400 watts, if I am at a campground that has 50 amp service.

There are NOT a lot of campgrounds in Calgary and area. Dumping may be an issue.

There are host of other good ideas in the thread I linked to for you.

Winter Camping in full time

I'm currently plugged in at a local Church. I give them a discount on their piano tuning of $10 per night that I stay. I have access tonight to two 15 amp circuits, so I'll be warm as toast.

It is good to monitor the voltage, especially if you do not have access to the shore power breakers. Reduce the load if you see below 105 volts.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

Opie431
Explorer
Explorer
If you can afford it,get an electric blanket. Good luck.

brulaz
Explorer
Explorer
For the drive there, I would drain everything and add lots of RV antifreeze. You can still use the tanks, the anti freeze should keep it all liquid.

Once there, you gotta set up, skirt your trailer (scrap plywood is good) and put an electric heater underneath. Use a bottle of expanding foam to fill all the seams/holes. If you can bank up the snow around the skirt that should help.

And those new MS/2's are supposed to be real good in the snow, even though they're not winter tires.

Good luck
2014 ORV Timber Ridge 240RKS,8500#,1250# tongue,44K miles
690W Rooftop + 340W Portable Solar,4 GC2s,215Ah@24V
2016 Ram 2500 4x4 RgCab CTD,2507# payload,10.8 mpgUS tow

loulou57 wrote:
Curious....How far north in Alberta are you heading or basically in Calgary?

Where are you planning on parking your trailer?


I don't envy your drive this time of year. Good luck! Hopefully you will be able to leave before the really bad weather sets in.


I will be in the Calgary area but not restricted to one location. First stop is Airdrie for a few days, then various other locations.

Ideally, I would like to find a CG close to each site, but at this time of year I doubt there are any open. I haven't looked yet.

So I am hoping to park the trailer close to each jobsite. Worst case scenario I have to find a place to park it and leave it there while I work the area, and commute back and forth.

At the present time I don't have a place to put it.

I will likely be there until some time in December. Going to be cool, I work outside and all the products I work with are made of aluminum. A tad cool on the fingers!
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
RV Rebuild Website - Site launched Aug 22, 2021 - www.rv-rebuild.com

loulou57
Explorer
Explorer
Curious....How far north in Alberta are you heading or basically in Calgary?

Where are you planning on parking your trailer?


I don't envy your drive this time of year. Good luck! Hopefully you will be able to leave before the really bad weather sets in.

louiskathy
Explorer
Explorer
Get an insulated tarp (rectangle) big enough to cut in half and use that to skirt around. Our MH has bay doors so we just lift the door, put a screw where the grommet is and close the door on it. It hangs on the ground by at least 4" and it does not blow in. It's own weight holds it down. Now, I'm not sure how your TT is built - but I'll through the insulated tarp idea at you because it's easy to take it down, roll it up and cart it down the road. Our MH is 37 ft. but the tarp goes just in front of the front wheels and right behind the rear wheels. I think it was used for a flat bed truck before we got it.

We have a small electric heater in the bay area on the MH and for the TC we hung an electric heating pad in there to keep the valves from freezing up.
Kathy

GENECOP wrote:
http://www.ultraheat.com/http://www.ultraheat.com/


Thanks for the link, I'll check it out.

FYI, if you look close the link is written twice, so won't work. But I can just type it in.
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
RV Rebuild Website - Site launched Aug 22, 2021 - www.rv-rebuild.com

westend wrote:
Hey Bob,
I haven't done it yet since I don't need to face the Winter in the TT but I have plans for dealing with the waste tank. The best solution I could come up with is to build a frame around the tanks, install heating tape of choice (I plan to use gutter de-icing cable), and insulate the tank frame. The drain pipes will get a wrap of conventional pipe heating cable and a wrap of insulation. I already have a switched GFCI receptacle in an all-weather box mounted on the frame.
I figured that even if I choose to park without AC available, the AC heat cables will eventually thaw the slush out of the drains. I do have an inverter with solar so may be able to keep everything from becoming a giant ****sickle.

Good luck on your trip!


Awesome idea - thanks! ๐Ÿ™‚ I can do that easily.

A few winters ago I had to deal with the giant poopsicle! It wasn't fun!
2007 GMC 3500 dually ext. cab 4X4 LBZ Dmax/Allison - 2007 Pacific Coachworks Tango 306RLSS
RV Rebuild Website - Site launched Aug 22, 2021 - www.rv-rebuild.com

CloudDriver
Explorer
Explorer
Heat tape is most effective when used with insulation. Without insulation the cold breeze just blows the warmth away.
2003 Winnebago Minnie 24F - Ford E-450๐Ÿ™‚