Adding a new 120 vac circuit and outlet

[deltabravo]

In my last several RVs, I've installed a new, dedicated circuit and outlet for a space heater.

It's not often that I have electric hookups, but when I do, I use the space heater for heat. I don't camp when the weather is below freezing, so there's no need to run the propane furnace to circulate warm air around the holding tanks. In this scenario, a small space heater is all I use.

Both were easy upgrades because the new outlet location is close to the electrical panel with easy access to everything.

This video shows how I did it in my Arctic Fox 992 truck camper,

[RollandB]

We downsized to. 19’ TT recently and are out in its maiden voyage. One task has been to determine the place best for our portable tower heater. Like the OP we don’t expect to camp in freezing temps. Once home a dedicated circuit will be added to the location we determine. The little portable heater does a great job keeping the small trailer nice and warm.

Thanks for the info

[philh]

when I replaced the convertor/charger, discovered the inbound power hot wire screw was not tight. Loose enough, it wouldn't take much vibration to begin arcing.

[Gonefshin]

I installed a separate receptacle in the bathroom for my wife’s hair dryer and curling iron. Ran the wire over to the bay with all the hook ups. I plug into the gfci in the pedestal.

[deltabravo]

Here's another video showing how I did it in my Nash 17k about 2 years or so ago.

[CharlesinGA]

The push in back wire is so cheesy that its almost criminal. Thankfully the code allows wire no larger than 14 gauge and the hole is small enough you cannot get 12 gauge thru it. I refuse to wrap around a screw on an outlet. I buy the commercial/industrial backwire design that you insert the wire and tighten the screw and a knurled or serrated plate is drawn up to clamp the wire inside. If you tighten them properly they won't work loose.

Frankly, every couple of years you should go thru an RV electrical system and re-tighten everything, going so far as to open up transfer switches and other boxes that contain connections to tighten.

If you are interested in not having screws to work loose, use the Hubbell SnapConnect® type receptacles and then use the WAGO connectors to make the connections to the Romex™

https://www.hubbell.com/wiringdevice-kellems/en/Products/Electrical-Electronic/Wiring-Devices/Straig...

https://www.wago.com/us/lp-221

RV receptacles are designed and certified to be installed without a separate box. They ARE the box. I wished someone made a better version of them however, with quality connections and heavier spring tension contacts for the plugs to engage with. At home I use all commercial stuff that is actually difficult to plug into, but you get good contact.

Charles

[Foggy]

"maintain positive pressure in all conditions"
Until they don't. With repeated changes in temperature and humidity they WILL fail.

[Blacklane]

I appreciated the OP's video until he got to the part where he decided to scrap the RV outlet and use a standard outlet, then proceeded to connect wires to the terminal screws. Using screw connections in a vibration-prone environment is risky, since the screws can loosen. A better choice would be to use the spring-loaded speed connectors in the back of many devices, since those maintain positive pressure in all conditions.

A lot of people think RV outlets are cheap for the RV manufacture, but in fact, they are more expensive but designed and approved for that environment. When properly installed, the wires will not work loose from a self-contained device.

Now I expect a slew of comments of "Well, I had a bad experience with a self-contained outlet..." but almost always that was due to a faulty installation. You can mis-install a hospital-grade device as well. The self-contained device itself is usually very reliable and preferred in a vibration environment.

[FunTwoDrv]

"But my thought would be to use One of These they come in different lengths and I could put it where I wanted it."

The 6' version is what I'll be installing on ours.

Gary

[frankwp]

The National Parks campground where we do most of our camping has the pedestals wired in such a way that you can't get any additional power by using the 15A receptacle. They have the 15A breaker and the 30A receptacle fed from the 30A breaker. So the total amount of power available is only what the 30A breaker will allow. I wonder how many other campgrounds are that way.

[IAMICHABOD]

I have been thinking the same thing for my class C. Then I saw This post and it does seem doable.

But my thought would be to use One of These they come in different lengths and I could put it where I wanted it.

[deltabravo]

BarneyS wrote:
Here is how I did it for our trailer.
Barney

That's a really good idea too, then you can run it from the other outlet on the power pedestal.

[time2roll]

I have have found no trouble running my electric space heater from an existing outlet continuously for days on end.
Although I generally keep the fridge and water set to propane.

[chast]

I agree with Lwiddis. I learned the hard way not to pull everything through the 30 amp RV plug. A separate extension fished out through the slide seal and back to the pedestal solved the problem. Good job on the wiring and outlet though.

[Lwiddis]

“When I'm on a 30A pedestal and need the heater I run an extension cord to an available pedestal plug.”

This is my plan.