Brake,tail and signal light conversion to LED

[jim_behr]

I have a 2012 3500 silverado and pull a 14000 lb 5th wheel. I want to switch out the standard tail lights to LED. I'm sure you all have done this, any advise?

[gmctoyman]

You might try a high freq. PWM to trim your lights down if you feel they are getting to much current.

[Gdetrailer]

gmctoyman wrote:
Looking at all of the OTR drivers going to LEDs, many Bargman, I'd say YOU have a problem with YOUR system. JMOO

I do a LOT of highway driving on my commute to work and a lot of that on a major Interstate with lots of truck traffic. It is EASIER to count the trucks with ALL GOOD working LED lights.

I can tell you that easily 75% or more big rigs I see daily will have at least one LED module partially or fully dead.

Not to mention the amount of LED traffic lights which are failing at rather fast rates.. Recently I have noticed the a lot of LED traffic lights being relamped with INCADESCENT lights!

The problem is the manufacturers of these assemblies are PUSHING the current and heat limits of the LEDs they chose to use in order to maximize the brightness. These LEDs are "potted" in an epoxy to water proof them and the same time the epoxy is not allowing the heat generated to be dissipated away from the LED junctions.

It is a popular "belief" that LEDS do not generate heat.. That belief is FALSE. LED junctions DO INDEED create heat, they are no different from transistors in that respect.

Run current through a semiconductive junction and heat happens. Run too much current through the junction and too much heat happens. When too much heat happens (or not enough heat is removed from the junction) the junction will eventually FAIL.

The way to fix this problem is to REDUCE the current draw EVER SO SLIGHTLY, reducing the current draw will extend the life by reducing the heat across the junction.

Good chance the modules current draw can be reduced by 10% or even 20% with very little loss in light output. That is where I am now going and will be the ultimate fix.

I am looking at using several regular diodes in series with the bargman modules to drop the voltage down about 1.4V and check the current draw and brightness.

I WILL find a way to fix this garbage and make them reliable..

[gmctoyman]

Looking at all of the OTR drivers going to LEDs, many Bargman, I'd say YOU have a problem with YOUR system. JMOO

[Gdetrailer]

wmoses wrote:

Gdetrailer wrote:
There is really no good reason to change from the factory incadescent bulb to a LED other than wasting your money AND you will have to defeat a safety item to do that anyways (LEDS DO FAIL, if you don't believe me I HAVE a failed set of $60 Bargman trailer tail lights laying around).

Maybe he likes the instant-on /-off responsiveness of LEDs ... I do. That and the fact that the Bergman assemblies are more monsoon-resistant than the sometimes El cheapo lens assemblies that come with some trailers, and which allow water ingress which then shatters incandescent bulbs and you have no clue but keep driving for 3 hours in the driving rain ... don't ask me how I know.

The Bargmans (and other LED modules)are not "repairable" either and at nearly $60 for ONE module is not a cheap fix.

Not to mention you CAN NOT pickup a new Bargman module at your local Walmart, Dollar General and so on. Therefore it is WISE to BUY AN EXTRA module so you can replace it WHEN it fails while you are thousands of miles from home..

So far I have had TWO Bargman modules QUIT, one the brake/turn quit and the other the "marker" quit. $120 worth of no functioning junk.

Don't go there about "lifetime" warranty.. The shipping cost alone now days will easily set you back $20 or more, then you WAIT, WAIT, WAIT and WAIT some more. And while you are waiting what do you do with no module?

This spring as I mentioned in another post I had a TOP LED marker quit the same day as my annual PA safety inspection. Fortunately those markers are not sealed (the LED cluster inside is "potted" but the lens can be removed) and I was able to substitute another LED cluster.

Just got back from a 1600 mile trip and now I have ANOTHER MARKER OUT!

These LED things as designed and sold are not dependable.. I am now going to RETROFIT ALL the markers with the modules I bought which I WILL be dimming down and INCREASING the life of those modules with a resistor.

[miatared]

I did the LED upgrade to my tail lamps to be more visible. I am a motorcyclist and am big on defensive driving. Be seen.

They are a whole lot brighter than the OEM tails. Plain and simple.

I also did all the inside fixtures to save power when dry camping.

Happy camper.

[wmoses]

Gdetrailer wrote:
There is really no good reason to change from the factory incadescent bulb to a LED other than wasting your money AND you will have to defeat a safety item to do that anyways (LEDS DO FAIL, if you don't believe me I HAVE a failed set of $60 Bargman trailer tail lights laying around).

Maybe he likes the instant-on /-off responsiveness of LEDs ... I do. That and the fact that the Bergman assemblies are more monsoon-resistant than the sometimes El cheapo lens assemblies that come with some trailers, and which allow water ingress which then shatters incandescent bulbs and you have no clue but keep driving for 3 hours in the driving rain ... don't ask me how I know.

[RCMAN46]

I double tow most of the time. I installed LED lights on the trailer to reduce the load on the electrical system in the truck. Plus the LED are easier to see.

I also have LED lights inside the trailer. The LED light in my bathroom does interfere with my TV reception when I am using over the air TV.

I was surprised the digital TV broadcast would be affected but it is. Total blackout when the bathroom LED light is on. Other LED lights in trailer cause no interference and are the same units. The bathroom unit is close to the roof antenna entrance.

[Tango__AE7UI]

I changed out the OEM stop and taillight assemblies on out fifth after my brother who was following me said they were very dim and hard to see.
I installed boat trailer LEDs assemblies and it sure makes a difference in visibility.
Bought locally from State Trailer Supply in Salt Lake City, UT.

[RoyB]

I never got interested in swapping ours out. Our incandescent automotive types are visual enough for us...

The only reason I switched to LEDs inside the trailer was to save battery drain. Since the trailers safety lights all run from the truck battery was no incentive for me.

Also LED lights are prone to produce RFI Signals that interfere with the HDTV and other electronics. Being a HAM RADIO guy I have to fight that stuff all the time. Between LED lights and on-board INVERTERs I have my work cut out for for when playing with my HAM RADIO.

Roy ken

[miatared]

Here is what I installed. I got them from Princess Auto - a Canadian store similar to Harbor Freight. They are submersible and have been working for over 3 years - and lots of rain and miles.

Paid $50 for the pair. The LH one has another LED at the bottom for lighting up the licence plate/tag.

IMG_4661_a by Denis S.

IMG_4662 by Denis S.

[packnrat]

no reason to wire in a resistor to foul up your wiring system.

pending on how many leds you plan on using the tried and true old school by-metal flasher might work.

if not or you just want to cover your self. they make these electronic flashers to replace the factory flashers. these items are made to work with led lights.

only lights to be included here are your turn lights all the rest are plug and work.

but for running lights for travel time there is no reason to adapt your system to run leds. your motors alt produces more than enough to keep everything working with extra to spare.

now like my yamaha fz1 it has a odd system for making juice and as the motor was designed to be used on a track. adding lights can hurt. NO WAY to add more juice to the mix. even a couple led spot lights are too much for the system.
but this is a sports bike not a rv hauler.

even for any truck motor one can always up grade there alt to put out more juice. some can run two alts. (one for the truck one for "other").
how many batteries under the hood of your truck? newer trucks and cars should be using two any how, (to much electronics).


.

[burningman]

Thanks for the quick reply full of info!
I suppose I could use a rheostat and have the ability to dial the marker brightness wherever I wanted... just for the fun of it. Or even use the brake light circuit to bypass the resistor to the rear-facing markers for more brake-light effect... just for even more fun.

[Gdetrailer]

burningman wrote:
Those look like a good deal, do you have any yet? I'd like to know the actual size of the modules.
The description says "Modules are linked on 2-conductor 18AWG zip cord, 161mm (6.5") center-to-center spacing. 3.75" wire between each module." I'd like to know what marker lenses I can fit those behind.
I'd like to convert all my truck, camper, and trailer markers to LED (I've only done the tail lights so far) and I don't mind modifying my own stock lenses. Actually l like doing it that way, my camper tail lights are custom LEDs behind the stock lenses.

Modules are 2 3/4" in length not including the wire

5/8" Wide

about 1/4" tall (or thick)

They are prepped with 3M double sided tape on the back and feature one screw hole if you want to screw it into place.

Model number is LX-ECO3S .72W draw at 12V

One of the reviews mentioned they work down to 8V, I didn't check that but for use in my marker lights I did have to add a resistor to dim them so they were not brighter than the other markers.

[burningman]

Those look like a good deal, do you have any yet? I'd like to know the actual size of the modules.
The description says "Modules are linked on 2-conductor 18AWG zip cord, 161mm (6.5") center-to-center spacing. 3.75" wire between each module." I'd like to know what marker lenses I can fit those behind.
I'd like to convert all my truck, camper, and trailer markers to LED (I've only done the tail lights so far) and I don't mind modifying my own stock lenses. Actually l like doing it that way, my camper tail lights are custom LEDs behind the stock lenses.