Hard to pull release handle

[luggage]

I just purchased my first fifth wheel (Mountaineer) and dealer installed a Husky 16K slider hitch (short bed F250 diesel)in TV. I am embarrassed to admit what I am about to say but I am having a heck of a time pulling the handle to open the hitch for the hook-up. Either because I had back surgery last year and am still having some issues. Even though I'm 70 I considered myself fairly fit with exception of the back. I think I will try to stand on a stool to give me more leverage because standing on the ground it's all I can do to pull the lever. Do all fifth wheel hitches require the same amount of pull as the one I have. Can the hitch be safely modified to make it easier to pull without compromising the effectiveness of the hitch? If not I am going to have to figure what muscles are key to the pulling (i.e. shoulder, arms and wrist) because I really can't put any stress on my back and pulling from the ground reaching over the side of the bed maybe part of the problem. May be I am just doing it wrong. Definitely need to talk to my RV dealer. Thanks for listening and any advice will be appreciated.

[Gib3633]

Sorry Old Biscuit thought you were giving me a shot:
Its a 50/50 thing whether it will release the pressure or not and yes I would agree to neutral if you have a functioning parking brake. We are mostly seniors and possibly to sensitive to some responses. On tractor trailers we have spring brakes on tractor and trailer and do not have parking brakes on our fifth wheels. My observation has been more often than not movement when the release is pulled depending on the lay of the land on both type of vehicles. The point I was trying to make was that the release pulls easier with two hands than with one. No hard feelings intended

[Grillmeister]

Deleted

[mdamerell]

Grillmeister wrote:
Even professional truck drivers need a little relief sometimes, especially when hooking and un- hooking several times a day. I have seen several use a handle / hook about two or three feet long with a handle on one end and a hook on the other.

It's more about not getting grease on your sleeve/shoulder or getting dirt/muck from the drive tires on you. The bottom of the bolster plate is covered with grease. If the 5th wheel was over greased the handle will also be greasy. Most use the hook to stay clean.

[Old-Biscuit]

Gib3633 wrote:
Old - Biscuit Keep scratching and you will figure it out

I doubt that.....you see there is absolutely nothing wrong with placing truck in neutral to relieve the pressure off of the hitch jaw/king pin.
There's this device called 'parking brake'. It holds vehicle from rolling and is also good for keeping pressure off parking pawl if you have an automatic transmission.

So instead of a 'cute' remark....explain your reason for "I wouldn't be putting my truck in neutral"

Maybe I'm missing something :H

[Gib3633]

Old - Biscuit Keep scratching and you will figure it out

[azjeffh]

OB,

Think he hasn't quite grasped the "total" concept.

Since using this suggested method, I've never been in any parking situation where it did not work.

Recently ran into someone this Labor Day Weekend who could not release his hitch. I suggested he temporarily put it in Neutral to relieve the load on the pin, voilà, problem solved. He told me "all these years of RVing and still learning" :C

[Old-Biscuit]

Gib3633 wrote:
The higher the truck the harder to reach . I also can't pull standing on ground. I find quite easy stepping up on tire then using both hands. I wouldn't be putting my truck in neutral. If your back won't allow stepping up on tire you will need a step ladder as mentioned

WHY :H

[Allworth]

When I moved from a 2500 to a 3500, I bought a small stool (about 9" high and 10x12" top surface) at Big Lots. Light weight plastic. It travels in the front bin on top of everything else. Just enough height to be able to reach into the bed to unlock the breakaway, get the safety lever, and then pull the handle.

About $4.00.

By the way, get white or yellow so it doesn't get left behind or run over.

[Tom_Diane]

I ran into the same problems when we bought our first 5er. I had to stand on my tippy toes or jump up and hang on the edge of truck box and pull the pin lever. After about 5 of those events, I started snooping and looking at others 5er hitch, I realized the dealer had my pull handle up side down. One quarter inch bolt holds it on and I just turned it so the lever was now even with my truck box Problem solved!

[Gib3633]

The higher the truck the harder to reach . I also can't pull standing on ground. I find quite easy stepping up on tire then using both hands. I wouldn't be putting my truck in neutral. If your back won't allow stepping up on tire you will need a step ladder as mentioned

[DHCamper]

luggage wrote:
I just purchased my first fifth wheel (Mountaineer) and dealer installed a Husky 16K slider hitch (short bed F250 diesel)in TV. I am embarrassed to admit what I am about to say but I am having a heck of a time pulling the handle to open the hitch for the hook-up. Either because I had back surgery last year and am still having some issues. Even though I'm 70 I considered myself fairly fit with exception of the back. I think I will try to stand on a stool to give me more leverage because standing on the ground it's all I can do to pull the lever. Do all fifth wheel hitches require the same amount of pull as the one I have. Can the hitch be safely modified to make it easier to pull without compromising the effectiveness of the hitch? If not I am going to have to figure what muscles are key to the pulling (i.e. shoulder, arms and wrist) because I really can't put any stress on my back and pulling from the ground reaching over the side of the bed maybe part of the problem. May be I am just doing it wrong. Definitely need to talk to my RV dealer. Thanks for listening and any advice will be appreciated.

I have the non-slider version of the same hitch. I know what you are talking about. The return spring is quite heavy and takes a good pull to open and lock. I just muscle it, but I think a call to Husky (877-544-4449) might yield a solution. Their customer service was very good when I contacted them with another issue.

[ol_Bombero-JC]

jimwooster wrote:

rhagfo wrote:

jimwooster wrote:
I have the Husky 16k and fought with it too. Discovered that once you get set up either to hook or unhook once you lock in the hitch just put the truck in neutral and it takes the pressure off. Works every time.

Great way to see your truck roll down the next slight grade!

Rhagfo...Did you see my follow up post saying to put it back in PARK!!!! Obviously not..

Ain't it great when the train jumps the tracks, LOL.

OP - try Biscuit's method. Check the result/s.
If it doesn't work, go to Plan B.

*If* the handle is hard to pull -even w/o the pin in the jaws-
call the mfgr's Tech Line and ask them.
Solutions is their job!.

Oh yeah - don't leave your truck in neutral unless it's chained to a tree, wall or stout post..:R

.

[jimwooster]

rhagfo wrote:

jimwooster wrote:
I have the Husky 16k and fought with it too. Discovered that once you get set up either to hook or unhook once you lock in the hitch just put the truck in neutral and it takes the pressure off. Works every time.

Great way to see your truck roll down the next slight grade!

Rhagfo...Did you see my follow up post saying to put it back in PARK!!!! Obviously not..

[dancoppins]

Although I have a different hitch (Super Glide slider) I find that the unlatching process is ALWAYS harder if the truck and unit are not perfectly aligned with each other. The more the trailer is turned, the harder the handle is to pull to unhook. Just something to think about.:W