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Question about stabilizer jacks and landing gear

Scott_85
Explorer
Explorer
When I get to the campground I've just been using one yellow pad or put under the landing gear and the rear jacks, then running the jacks all the way down, is this right or should I use more yellow pads? The reason I ask is because I can't seem to get the camper steady enough. I also use the x chocks. Is there anything else I can do just to make it a little more steady?
TV: 2013 Ram 2500 Laramie, G56, Andersen Ultimate 5th Wheel Hitch.
5er: 2013 Coachmen Chaparral 280RLS
25 REPLIES 25

Scott_85
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for the tips, we are camping now I used 3 yellow Legos under the landing gear two in the back. I also put the rear stabilizers down then lifted the nose to level and it still moves but there is a night and day difference. DW told me I'm getting a lot better at setting up.
TV: 2013 Ram 2500 Laramie, G56, Andersen Ultimate 5th Wheel Hitch.
5er: 2013 Coachmen Chaparral 280RLS

Dutch___Di
Explorer
Explorer
I may be in the minority but I can only say what works for us. We are on our 18th year of fulltime RV'ing and I have always put out my slide as soon as I go in. Once Dutch has the electric plugged in and the sewer hose in place, I put out his slide. I don't put out the bedroom slide until he finishes as the control panel compartment is right underneath the slide and you know who will definitely bump his head:B. All of this is going on while he has pushed the button to auto level our Big Foot leveling system and once they are done all that is left is to tighten up our stabilizer knobs and we both finish about the same time.
I know that BF told me to not even be inside while it is auto leveling or if I was to stand perfectly still. I explained that I was not going to stand around while it does it's dance when I could be inside pushing the button for the satellite and getting everything done. We have never not been level but everyone has to do what works best for them. Hugs, Di
Scott_85 wrote:
Another dumb question do I level and stabilize before the slides go out or after?
2015 Western Brown Pearl single cab Ram 3500 Dually. Aisin Transmission, Pace Edwards auto rolltop cover, DeBoe Slide Step, AMP Side Steps.
1996/2010 Triple Slide Carriage, Mor/Ryde Susp, Kodiak Disc Brakes, Big Foot Auto Leveling System, TST TPMS

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
Scott_85 wrote:
Another dumb question do I level and stabilize before the slides go out or after?


Should be level before deploying slides. Stabilizing before/after is your choice.
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver

john_bet
Explorer II
Explorer II
The wiggle I have does not bother me. I have no add-on's.
2018 Ram 3500 SRW CC LB 6.7L Cummins Auto 3.42 gears
2018 Grand Design 337RLS

Scott_85
Explorer
Explorer
Another dumb question do I level and stabilize before the slides go out or after?
TV: 2013 Ram 2500 Laramie, G56, Andersen Ultimate 5th Wheel Hitch.
5er: 2013 Coachmen Chaparral 280RLS

wandering1
Explorer
Explorer
When someone is walking around inside the 5er it will bounce/wiggle. Rubber tires will bounce, suspension systems are made to bounce. To eliminate the bouncing/wiggling you need to keep the weight from pushing down on the tires and suspension by making sure your stabilizers are tight between the 5er and the ground. Don’t just let them out far enough to touch the ground, turn the crank more to make sure they are tight so they will not allow the 5er to push down on the tires. Use a bipod/tripod under the king pin. Make sure it is tight between the ground and the king pin, don’t just adjust it till it touches, tighten it so the front overhang will not move. Make sure to check the stabilizers and bipod/tripod every couple of days because they will loosen up over time. Doesn’t make sense spending a lot of money on landing jack stabilizers when the landing jacks are stable and don’t bounce up and down. If you have properly adjusted the stabilizers and bipod/tripod then you shouldn’t have any bouncing/wiggling. This has worked for me over the past 15 years.
Chocks are to keep the 5er from rolling forward or backwards. They do not eliminate the weight of the 5er from pushing down and causing the bouncing/wiggling. If you park on a site that has a incline/decline then you probably want to use chocks to keep your 5er from rolling when you unhitch.
There are a lot of other options out there to “eliminate” the bouncing/wiggling if you have the extra money and want to spend it.
HR

Lantley
Nomad
Nomad
A little movement really doesn't bother me. However if you want more solid footing, I strongly suggest JT Strongarms. They make a noticeable difference.
My rig came with them as standard equipment.
Auto level and JT Strongarms are game changers from prior conventional thinking.
This new technology is a definite improvement.
19'Duramax w/hips, 2022 Alliance Paradigm 390MP >BD3,r,22" Blackstone
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BakFlip,RVLock,Prog.50A surge ,Hughes autoformer
Porta Bote 8.0 Nissan, Sailun S637

2-MTnesters
Explorer
Explorer
I do as others have suggested and lower the front slightly, then deploy the rear stabilizers, then raise the landing gear to snug up the rig. I then install the X-Chocks between the tires and place scissors jack in front of the front wheels on each side and just snug them up. This removes any 'BOUNCE' in the middle of the camper. I also have the STEADYFAST stabilizers installed which make a huge difference. May seem like overkill to some but for me it's better to take these extra steps and have DW happy. Tim
The Webers
Me- Tim
DW- Dea
Pooch- JoJo boxer/lab mix
2010 Keystone Montana 3400RL Hickory Edition "The Taj Mahaul II"
2004.5 GMC Siera 2500HD SLT CC 4x4,6.6 Duramax/Allison, 3:73 gears, Firestone air bags, Reese 16K slider, TFI 45 gal fuel tank, Rhino Liner

Pipeman
Explorer
Explorer
I was reminded the other day about stabilizer jacks. They are " stabilizer Jacks" not your landing gear. They are used to snug up the trailer not take the weight of the trailer. I have used the tripod and it now stays in the shed and has been there for years. Just another toy that takes up space imho. Strongarms or a self built model will probably help out. I wouldn't know as I don't use them either. Another bean for the pot, as the saying goes.
Pipeman
Ontario, Canada
Full Member
35 year Fire Fighter(retired)
VE3PJF

JIMNLIN
Explorer
Explorer
All three of the 5th wheel trailers I've owned were rock solid and weren't sitting on concrete blocks.

I use various size blocks under the landing gear which is determined by the type of terrain were camping on. Some times the pin is waist high or sometimes its well over my head after sitting up.
As you can tell we don't camp in many RV parks with leveled/flat concrete pads and I also carry a big supply wood for leveling/blocking in any terrain.

JTs would be nice but I find my '80s era aluminum bi pod pin stabilizer at the front and BAL telescoping stabilizers at the rear take side to side/up and down motion out. I also use adjustable chocks between the tires that eliminates fore and aft movement. I also use blocks under the landing gear pads and the rear BALs. I'm rock solid for my needs.
"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

'03 2500 QC Dodge/Cummins HO 3.73 6 speed manual Jacobs Westach
'97 Park Avanue 28' 5er 11200 two slides

Tgalley
Explorer
Explorer
My concern is not so much the movement, but eventual fatigue or failure of the leveling jacks. I am currently on a sloping site, and my front jacks are near full extension (6 point auto-leveling).

Any comments?

Thanks

Scott_85
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for all the good replies this camping trip I will use the tips brought fourth, if there is no change I guess ill be buying some lumber.
TV: 2013 Ram 2500 Laramie, G56, Andersen Ultimate 5th Wheel Hitch.
5er: 2013 Coachmen Chaparral 280RLS

goducks10
Explorer
Explorer
If you want to take out the wigglies then any of the JT Strongarm type stabilizers will work. I DIY'ed my own on my last TT and did the same for our 5'er. The fore and aft movement can be taken up with good chocking like BAL. Or if the JT types have the fore and aft arms. But the side to side wiggle will only be cured with JT type stabilizers.
If I tighten the fronts only then go to the rear and push on the corner in a side to side fashion, I can still make the 5'er wiggle some. Tighten the rear brace and it's rock solid.
What's happening is when the front of the trailer is held up by either a tongue jack or the 5'er stabilizers it will still move because of the tires sidewall flex. A simple test is to just clamp a diagonal brace across the front then go push on the rear. It will still wiggle. Now clamp a diagonal brace on the rear jacks and it'll be solid.
Tripods don't help because the tires still flex. It will help only the fore and aft movement. Unless you have a MorRyde type king pin then it's virtually worthless.
Now if the 5'er is built on a longer weaker frame because it's either cheap or it's one of the 'lite' versions then some up and down frame flex can occur. That's when you need additional jacks near the tires.

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
Road Runners wrote:
Short of putting the frame up on blocks nothing you do will get rid of all the movement in a fiver. Since it is designed for the road the springs, shackles etc. will allow some movement. ..................



Just about sums it up!!!

Short of taking all the weight off of the tires and springs ther will always be some wiggle or bounce.

I still have not made up my mind on the JT Strong Arms, SHOULD work, but have heard both pro and con.
Russ & Paula the Beagle Belle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 Aisin DRW 4X4 Long bed.
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS, 32' GVWR 12,360#

"Visit and Enjoy Oregon State Parks"