ready for a better hitch...B&W or Anderson Ultimate

[Learjet]

Story:

I'm not happy with My Curt Q16 hitch, lots of slop starting and stopping, chucking on un-even roads...althought this might not be the hitches fault.

When Starting and stopping I can see the pin box slide on the hitch head about a 1/2 inch or so. This is a new hitch and a new 5th wheel trailer ...my first.

I have bed rails, no problem with them...So I'm thinking about getting a better hitch to use with the rails and my 12,000 lb 5th wheel trailer.

I have narrowed my choices to the B&W Patriot and the Anderson Ultimate connection rail version with safety chains.

I see many good post on each, but what about choosing between the two?

[jerem0621]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

jerem0621 wrote:

Learjet wrote:
I spoke with Curt tech support today, and they confirmed that 1/4 " is about a normal slack tolerance with the jaws around the pin.

Sounds like you have the slide bar model of the Curt 16k hitch.

It's VERY secure...if the bar is across the pin in the back...you are locked in. The down side is that there is some slop with a slide bar hitch. If it is the Slide bar version there should be a tension rod at the back of the hitch head that is supposed to take some of the slop out.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

The slide bars can break, my Dad's did on his RBW. They are noisy. I had a RBW also and cringed everytime I stopped or took off!

Thanks for sharing that information! That the kind of details we need in a forum.

The Curt like the OP has IS the grandchild of the RBW Lil' Rocker. The design is nearly identical with the only exception being the lack of side to side pivot lock outs on the Curt. Even the instruction manual is word for word the same in some cases.

Do you know how your Dads slide bar broke on the RBW? I have heard of damage happening when someone forgets to open the slide bar jaw but that can happen with nearly any hitch that requires the user to open the jaws before hitching. (I am not alluding that your dad made a mistake)

But I think your dads experience is the first I heard of the slide bar actually breaking.

Since there are thousands of similar hitches on the road by Husky, Pro Series, Curt, and used RBW's out there I think its worth the discussion.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[redhooker]

Learjet wrote:

jerem0621 wrote:

Learjet wrote:
I spoke with Curt tech support today, and they confirmed that 1/4 " is about a normal slack tolerance with the jaws around the pin.

Sounds like you have the slide bar model of the Curt 16k hitch.

It's VERY secure...if the bar is across the pin in the back...you are locked in. The down side is that there is some slop with a slide bar hitch. If it is the Slide bar version there should be a tension rod at the back of the hitch head that is supposed to take some of the slop out.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

No slider, play in the head and too much leg to base rail play also.

But the sliding back and forth on head is what bothers me.

Just checking as mine were missing on installation, but are there 1/8 inch rubber bushings at each rail pin location between the hitch and rails? If not you definitely need them, as my Q20 would "clunk" each time we had a momentum change and almost 1 inch of head movement. After placement of bushings no issue at all. I called Curt they sent them out for free. It is however a definite design flaw they are fixing with these bushings.

[fj12ryder]

minnow wrote:
Why is it that just when the B&W vs. Andersen debate dies down, someone who needs to learn what the search function is and how to use it, decides it's time to stick a large stick in the wasp's nest ?

The fact is, that there are few (if any) members here that have had and used both of these hitches. So the argument that mine is larger than yours is basically useless. Of course that won't stop the debate... Now where did I put that stick....

Why is when someone asks for opinions on which hitch they own and like, someone with no information to offer steps in and tries to stir things up?

This has been a very peaceful thread, with very little "Mine's better, no mine's better" back and forth. So if you don't have anything real to offer, just pass on by. We're doing fine thankyouverymuch.

[Sport45]

drfife wrote:


What I like about the B&W is that I can couple without getting out of my truck.

I back into the hitch and it locks in place. I get out, verify it is latched, inset locking pin, raise landing gear and I'm done.

Can you do that with an Andersen?

Sounds about the same. Back under the hitch. Raise the landing gear. Latch the hitch, plug in the cable and done. Only thing to add is hooking up the safety chains.

Only have to leave the truck once in either case....

I'll qualify that by admitting I don't have an Andersen, but I've hitched to enough goosenecks to know it's not a big deal.

[Learjet]

jerem0621 wrote:

Learjet wrote:
I spoke with Curt tech support today, and they confirmed that 1/4 " is about a normal slack tolerance with the jaws around the pin.

Sounds like you have the slide bar model of the Curt 16k hitch.

It's VERY secure...if the bar is across the pin in the back...you are locked in. The down side is that there is some slop with a slide bar hitch. If it is the Slide bar version there should be a tension rod at the back of the hitch head that is supposed to take some of the slop out.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

No slider, play in the head and too much leg to base rail play also.

But the sliding back and forth on head is what bothers me.

[Cummins12V98]

jerem0621 wrote:

Learjet wrote:
I spoke with Curt tech support today, and they confirmed that 1/4 " is about a normal slack tolerance with the jaws around the pin.

Sounds like you have the slide bar model of the Curt 16k hitch.

It's VERY secure...if the bar is across the pin in the back...you are locked in. The down side is that there is some slop with a slide bar hitch. If it is the Slide bar version there should be a tension rod at the back of the hitch head that is supposed to take some of the slop out.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

The slide bars can break, my Dad's did on his RBW. They are noisy. I had a RBW also and cringed everytime I stopped or took off!

[jerem0621]

Learjet wrote:
I spoke with Curt tech support today, and they confirmed that 1/4 " is about a normal slack tolerance with the jaws around the pin.

Sounds like you have the slide bar model of the Curt 16k hitch.

It's VERY secure...if the bar is across the pin in the back...you are locked in. The down side is that there is some slop with a slide bar hitch. If it is the Slide bar version there should be a tension rod at the back of the hitch head that is supposed to take some of the slop out.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[cummins2014]

drfife wrote:

minnow wrote:
...The fact is, that there are few (if any) members here that have had and used both of these hitches.....

You are correct, I've only used the B&W and not the Andersen.

What I like about the B&W is that I can couple without getting out of my truck.

I back into the hitch and it locks in place. I get out, verify it is latched, inset locking pin, raise landing gear and I'm done.

Can you do that with an Andersen?

You back under the Andersen until you are lined up, get out of your truck lower the pin box into the hitch ,latch ,and whatever. Raise the landing gear, and you are done. Can't see any difference ,you have to adjust the height of the pin box to accommodate whatever hitch BEFORE you actually back into the hitch .

With my conventional hitch I back up to the pin box get out adjust the height get back in the truck back under, get back out to finish the process. I don't know anyone that does it much different then that. Pretty tough to only get of the truck to latch , and raise landing gear.

[zb39]

B & W LOVE IT!!!

[drfife]

minnow wrote:
...The fact is, that there are few (if any) members here that have had and used both of these hitches.....

You are correct, I've only used the B&W and not the Andersen.

What I like about the B&W is that I can couple without getting out of my truck.

I back into the hitch and it locks in place. I get out, verify it is latched, inset locking pin, raise landing gear and I'm done.

Can you do that with an Andersen?

[minnow]

Why is it that just when the B&W vs. Andersen debate dies down, someone who needs to learn what the search function is and how to use it, decides it's time to stick a large stick in the wasp's nest ?

The fact is, that there are few (if any) members here that have had and used both of these hitches. So the argument that mine is larger than yours is basically useless. Of course that won't stop the debate... Now where did I put that stick....

[N-Trouble]

ramgunner wrote:

crshman wrote:

goducks10 wrote:
I recently found out that you aren't supposed to use the Andersen with the MorRyde or other slider pins.

Interesting, I was thinking about getting a MorRyde for myself, where did you hear this from?

Andersen confirmed to another user that it should not be used with the MorRyde or RotaFlex (TrailAir).

Probably some Andersen tech that didn't know better. They actually have the MorRyde Pinbox in some of their Youtube videos. Doh!

See no reason why a MorRyde couldn't be used with the Andersen. If there is a "reason" then Andersen should state it. Not just say you can't use... Several are using the MorRyde with it and like it. Its on my list regardless.

[Ford_Man]

B&W seems to be the best one on the market.

[ramgunner]

crshman wrote:

goducks10 wrote:
I recently found out that you aren't supposed to use the Andersen with the MorRyde or other slider pins.

Interesting, I was thinking about getting a MorRyde for myself, where did you hear this from?

Andersen confirmed to another user that it should not be used with the MorRyde or RotaFlex (TrailAir).

[crshman]

goducks10 wrote:
I recently found out that you aren't supposed to use the Andersen with the MorRyde or other slider pins.

Interesting, I was thinking about getting a MorRyde for myself, where did you hear this from?