Common Class C Break Downs & Maintenance Ideas

[sullivanclan]

I'm driving a 2003 Class C Jayco Greyhawk with 50,000 miles. We have owned it two years now. No issues to date, but some long trips coming up.

Some vehicles/motorhomes types have similar issues at times, so I thought I would throw this question out there. (not trying to suggest one model over another is better) We keep up with general maintenance. But it is weird to have a 13 year old vehicle with now only 50,000 miles.

Any common things to watch out for?

[sullivanclan]

Lots of great suggestions. I appreciate it. I certainly need to address the fuel pump, hoses and fluids. Plus, as noted above, I have already had motor troubles with the automatic steps.

Always like to stay ahead of highways troubles when long ways from home base.

[Matt_Colie]

Sullivan,

Don't feel bad about the 15years and only 50K. Our coach is 43 and only 165K.

Things to watch out for (we know about older). Flush the cooling system as the corrosion inhibitors have been depleted. Flush the Brakes because the fluid collects water and that corrodes important parts. While tires seem to start failing at 7~8 years, you can expect the other rubber parts to start going bad about now. So, as time and money permit, start inspecting at least and replacing some rubber just on principle. Start will the fuel and brake lines, but do not forget the coolant lines. Suspect everything rubber.

Matt

[Bordercollie]

Brakes including front flex hoses, engine cooling system/water pump, belts and hoses, fridge, house battery(s) and converter charger including corroded battery connectors, roof A/C, and dash A/C, furnace, RV generator, truck engine starter, alternator and tires if over 5 years old with sidewall cracks,
CO and gas leak alarms.

Brakes, tires and alarms are serious safety items.

[j-d]

Rock, Good to see you out here posting! You'd been absent awhile and we were getting apprehensive.

The problem with the hoses is "usually" that you can brake but the fluid can't get back OUT of the calipers because of blockage, and the pads stay in contact with the rotor.

When our right front brake locked up, the front axle was still a 2002 assembly. I bought reman calipers for both sides, new hoses, and new pads. All this was in stock at the Advance Auto Parts in the small town where we broke down. Just be sure your counter person knows it's the "E" Series (van) you're getting parts for, not the "F" Series (pickup). Anyhow, the hoses were readily available. The Right and Left are different. So are Calipers. Left WILL mount as Right and vice versa, BUT the Bleeders will be on the Bottom instead of the TOP where the air bubbles go to be bled out.

Then, I upgraded to a 2012 axle to get the big brakes Ford installed starting 2008. Hoses are still Left and Right and I ordered Dorman hoses from Amazon. Ford got smart on Calipers and put Bleeders on Top and Bottom, so now one Part Number fits Both Sides.

The Late Model (again, 2008 and newer, the E-Series with the "Dump Truck Grille," brakes are wonderful!!! A very good upgrade. When Ford made the change, they put the bigger brakes (larger diameter thicker rotors, bigger pads, bigger caliper pistons), they applied it to every Van. E150 all the way to E450, so you could upgrade any earlier E-Series. There'd be benefit, noticeable better braking. But on ours, 31-ft scaling at 14000 loaded for travel, it is spectacular.

[rockhillmanor]

IAMICHABOD wrote:
All very good advice so far but one thing to do on a rig that old is to replace all your rubber brake lines,they have a tendency to degrade over time.

They will look fine from the outside but may collapse on the inside leading to no braking.

A common over looked repair when having a braking problems....

X10 !
Been there done that. Had new brakes put on. Hit the road and went to exit and NO brakes, damnn near died.

Problem? Front brake lines. They look just fine on the outside BUT they Collapsed on the inside. Break repair guy never suggested to replace the brake lines. :R

and if you have a Ford they have to be replaced with OEM. No after market available. Soooo you will be sitting in a shop waiting for a Ford truck dealership to deliver them where ever you have broken down. And hope there is one nearby.

[j-d]

Our E450 is a 2002 chassis under a 2003 Jayco. We've had one set of front brake calipers stick. Well, one caliper and I replaced both. The prev owner and I have had REAR calipers stick also. In our years, the front calipers are mounted on slide bolts, not the slide wedge retainers Ford used to use. BUT the rears are still on the wedges. Clumsy to work on, and I believe more prone to slide-related sticking.

Any brake work do, replace the Hoses. You can replace them pre-emptively, but DO NOT let the Master Cylinder drain dry. You'll need your ABS re-programmed.

[IAMICHABOD]

All very good advice so far but one thing to do on a rig that old is to replace all your rubber brake lines,they have a tendency to degrade over time. They will look fine from the outside but may collapse on the inside leading to no braking.

A common over looked repair when having a braking problems.

At the same time drain and replace the brake fluid.

[mikebreeze]

3 things that I am looking at maintenance wise in the short term are brakes, ball joints and rear differential (check to see if the bolts are loose, mine has a small leak).

[jfkmk]

I agree with carringb, the fuel pump could be a concern and it might be worth replacing as a pm rather than waiting until it fails. I've had three fuel pumps fail (I tend to hold onto my vehicles), and to be honest, with the exception of one of them, I had no warning they were on their way out. The one that did give a warning, only started to do so on the drive home, which was 50 miles. The pump failed as I was driving through an intersection.

As pointed out, changing the pump typically involves dropping the tank. This is a job best left to a professional, as you should use non sparking tools. One spark, and it's all over!

[carringb]

Fuel pump is the biggest mechanical issue I can think of, that could interrupt a trip. They seem to be more affected by age than by milaege, and 15 years seems like a common time frame for the Ford pump.

The good news is, they usually give some symptoms before they fail. Subtle however. Extended crank time when starting, or the "whine" becomes louder or changes pitch. The other good news is that when it fails, it does it parked. They don't usually just stop when driving. The last good news is you can usually get 1 or 2 more starts by smacking the fuel tank while somebody cranks.

The bad news is you have to drop the tank to change it. If you have a large storage bay in the back, you may be able to add a fuel-pump hatch.

[Isaac-1]

Don't forget the rubber parts of the suspension (bushings, shock mounts, etc) which are prone to aging.

[ksg5000]

Before major trip i check the tires, brakes, batteries. I clean the various grounds (battery, electric step, generator) and climb up top and inspect/repair any roof issues. Your rigs got 50,000 miles - if you haven't changed your fuel filter install a new one before you start your trip.

Enjoy your trip.

[midnightsadie]

keep up the mainton, tires,brakes,hoses,belts battery,

[TyroneandGladys]

Tires age out not wear out. Check date codes on tires if 5 years or older replace.

[cgmartine]

If you have electric steps, I would expect that because of the age of the motorhome, nothwithstanding the relatively low miles, that the step motor and/or controller will malfunction.