Installing MaxxAir vent cover - question

[GoalstoDreams]

I am getting ready to (hopefully) install a vent cover on my bathroom vent. I've installed one on another RV but the frame of the vent on the roof of that unit was metal. My vent frame on this RV (2007 Itasca Spirit 25F) is fiberglass/plastic. Before I go drilling holes in this puppy, is there anything I should know? Or am I way over thinking this (which wouldn't be a first)?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Sue

[hotbyte]

Jim Shoe wrote:
I had MaxxAir covers installed by the dealer, but I ran into a different problem on my way to Alaska one summer. It never gets totally dark, and there's a vent directly over my rear bed. I stopped in Dawson Creek, BC at Canadian Tire (like Sears). They had stacks of black plastic "cardboard". A knife and some double sided Velcro kept the "Midnight Sun" out when sleeping, but still removable during the day. I still have them, in case I find a CG that leaves lights on at night.

We had similar problem boondocking in college parking lot for football games. We liked parking right next to the little islands that have light poles because it gave room to open the awning and tailgate. We never did anything to black out the vents/skylight, just "tailgated" hard enough during the we didn't notice the light at night 🙂 🙂 🙂

[Mich_F]

Bordercollie wrote:
Before installing Max Aires, good time to replace vent lids with good polycarbonate ones if not done previously. The cheaper standard Max Aire fit over our vent fan lid, slightly restricts opening of lid.

I've meant to put MaxxAir vents on all my previous Rvs, but never got around to it on any of them. My newest RV the Itasca 31K has roof vents that seem like the corners would crack if you even look at them - worst vents I've had on anything. I put 4 MaxxAirs on a few months ago to help with any possible leaking issues with the regular roof vents.

[Jim_Shoe]

I had MaxxAir covers installed by the dealer, but I ran into a different problem on my way to Alaska one summer. It never gets totally dark, and there's a vent directly over my rear bed. I stopped in Dawson Creek, BC at Canadian Tire (like Sears). They had stacks of black plastic "cardboard". A knife and some double sided Velcro kept the "Midnight Sun" out when sleeping, but still removable during the day. I still have them, in case I find a CG that leaves lights on at night.

[Bordercollie]

Before installing Max Aires, good time to replace vent lids with good polycarbonate ones if not done previously. The cheaper standard Max Aire fit over our vent fan lid, slightly restricts opening of lid.

[fortytwo]

Replaced an old vent, installed a Fantastic fan - with plastic frame - and then a vent cover a week ago. My vent cover had stainless machine bolts. Wanted to use washers, but not room enough for them. My only glitch was that the machine screws were too short and I had to buy longer ones. Couple of hundred miles in some pretty good wind so far with no problems.

[RVWithTito]

I would first try and find any screws on the existing vent that you could unscrew and use to hold both the vent and vent cover. Sometimes the second screw from the end will line up with the bracket on the vent cover. I was able to install my 4 vent covers without having to drill any new holes. You may have to dig away some DICOR sealant in order to uncover the screw head.

If you do have to drill new holes don't worry it's no big deal as long as you seal it up nice. Here's a video I just posted installing a Fan-Tastic Vent that might help calm your nerves about drilling new holes and give you tips on waterproofing the vent.

Good luck!

[j-d]

Installed three MaXXair's several years ago. First, an "original" onto the sheet metal flange of the bathroom vent. I used the stainless machine screws, nuts, and related washers provided in the small parts kit. I had misread the product literature and was disappointed the "original" did not come with the quick access hardware that's standard on the MaXXair-II's. That said, no vent cover issues of any kind with that one.
The two others were MaXXair-II's onto Fantastic Vents, which have thick plastic flanges. It's been awhile, but I don't think they came with self-tapping "sheet metal" screws as an alternative to to the machine screws. It took me a VERY LONG time to get far enough into the Fantastic units to install the nuts and washers. From what I hear lately, self-tapping stainless screws are the hot setup for plastic flanges. Just drill the hole and drive the screw.
This is where it gets odd. One of the two MaXXair-II's is sitting pretty. The other has worked loose a couple times. I removed it in a rest area last month so we wouldn't totally lose it. I found one machine screw, rest gone. Selected self-tapping stainless screws that would catch well in the worn machine screw holes. I think they're #12 because I went up with #10 and didn't like the way they didn't seem to tighten solid.

[ronfisherman]

Yup, way over thinking it. I had original MaxxAir vents. A couple years ago replaced them with MaxxAir II's. Had no problems installing them also. Did have to drill new holes. Plugged old holes with caulk.

[EMD360]

I installed two last month. Didn't think too much about it--used a drill bit I had on hand, the exact size as the directions called for and all the washers etc. they included in the package--for our unit it called for the bolts, not the screws, and it was a relatively simple job. I didn't run into any issues and our Itasca Spirit is getting up there. I also replaced the screen on one of the fans as well and found the whole assembly came apart relatively easily and even more important went back together too.

[DaHose]

Step drill in two or three stages.

Jose

[IAMICHABOD]

All very good suggestions, I may add another, just make sure that you have a very sharp drill bit to do the work, so you do not put undue pressure on the housing while drilling as not to crack it.

I found that out the hard way. Not on one of these but on another kind of thin plastic used in RVs.

[hotbyte]

I wouldn't think much different. Be careful drilling hole so not to crack the frame, drill on slow speed so plastic doesn't get to hot and be sure to use the large washer on inside of frame to spread pressure out on the plastic frame.

[Dick_B]

Try to drill the holes exactly the correct size for the screws. If possible to practice on scrap would be helpful. Too small a hole might crack the surrounding material when the screw is driven in.