Jim...yes was am still a Boy Racer/GearHead/Wrench...till I die...
Am more outside the box than in...always...and never one to like being part
of any herd...
Understand that the majority or fat part of the curve are into weight ratings
for LT tires. On that, too many think their 'trucks' are 'cars' to boot these
days. Fashion more important than function/performance of the towing kind
With the wider rims...get less tire sidewall bend back. Almost none to speak of
and is exactly what I was engineering for
Did make a discovery (mistake) with Michelin LTX-MS LT265/75R16E's...they are
both too soft & too many sipes on the tread, but their carcass design/construction
is pretty good. So good that with these wider rims...the sidewall to tread transition
has it way stronger & stiffer than I guessed
The tires wore out the two outer tread ribs...even aired up to 80PSI.
Current Dueler Revo's of same size has a more compliant transition area for that
sidewall issue. They are wearing evenly at 80PSI on the same rims with the same
type of driving style. They provide much, much more traction than
either of the LTX-MS or LTX-AT
Most here would consider my setup 'harsh' with no ride quality at all. Okay with
me, as that is what I engineered my setup for.
My advice is for those or the common 'in the box' folks. Why recommend the tire
OEM's width range. Engineered for both a min level of performance...balanced with
ride quality
Lower aspect ratio along with the required wider rimes allows this type of
driving
aspectratio sidewallstiffness widerrim trackperformance torsionalrigitity
Along with the engineered 'less sidewall bend back' comes higher performance
of the kind I like (covet)...and yes, do that often in most all my vehicles...except
for the Odyssey. Why?...both love to and lets me know my vehicles
Reduced slip angle, quicker response from steering input to actual change of
direction, less transitions in a quick right/left/right/left type of maneuver
Again, most won't understand both the technical aspects, nor understand the
why on a truck....heck...even on their cars...
Am more outside the box than in...always...and never one to like being part
of any herd...
Understand that the majority or fat part of the curve are into weight ratings
for LT tires. On that, too many think their 'trucks' are 'cars' to boot these
days. Fashion more important than function/performance of the towing kind
With the wider rims...get less tire sidewall bend back. Almost none to speak of
and is exactly what I was engineering for
Did make a discovery (mistake) with Michelin LTX-MS LT265/75R16E's...they are
both too soft & too many sipes on the tread, but their carcass design/construction
is pretty good. So good that with these wider rims...the sidewall to tread transition
has it way stronger & stiffer than I guessed
The tires wore out the two outer tread ribs...even aired up to 80PSI.
Current Dueler Revo's of same size has a more compliant transition area for that
sidewall issue. They are wearing evenly at 80PSI on the same rims with the same
type of driving style. They provide much, much more traction than
either of the LTX-MS or LTX-AT
Most here would consider my setup 'harsh' with no ride quality at all. Okay with
me, as that is what I engineered my setup for.
My advice is for those or the common 'in the box' folks. Why recommend the tire
OEM's width range. Engineered for both a min level of performance...balanced with
ride quality
Lower aspect ratio along with the required wider rimes allows this type of
driving
aspectratio sidewallstiffness widerrim trackperformance torsionalrigitity Along with the engineered 'less sidewall bend back' comes higher performance
of the kind I like (covet)...and yes, do that often in most all my vehicles...except
for the Odyssey. Why?...both love to and lets me know my vehicles
Reduced slip angle, quicker response from steering input to actual change of
direction, less transitions in a quick right/left/right/left type of maneuver
Again, most won't understand both the technical aspects, nor understand the
why on a truck....heck...even on their cars...
Yes, the recommended rim width (bead to bead) is important, but many mount them
on the OEM 6.5" rim. There is an OEM 7" rim, but not all have that...most common
is the 6.5" rim width
Bead to Bead is the measurement on the 'inside' of the rim...unscrupulous marketing
uses the 'outside' measurement to make it 'seem' wider than it is
That narrower rim width creats more sidewall bendback and that increases the
potential ride quality...but reduces the tire's response characteristics
Of more concern is that the wheel's weight rating vs the new tires higher weight
rating
The wheel spec should be on the wheel somewhere. Suggest the OP check before
purchasing the higher rated tires
This is a picture of my Suburban, which has LT265/75R16E's on 16x10
alloys rated for 3.2K.
mysub mysuburban
on the OEM 6.5" rim. There is an OEM 7" rim, but not all have that...most common
is the 6.5" rim width
Bead to Bead is the measurement on the 'inside' of the rim...unscrupulous marketing
uses the 'outside' measurement to make it 'seem' wider than it is
That narrower rim width creats more sidewall bendback and that increases the
potential ride quality...but reduces the tire's response characteristics
Of more concern is that the wheel's weight rating vs the new tires higher weight
rating
The wheel spec should be on the wheel somewhere. Suggest the OP check before
purchasing the higher rated tires
This is a picture of my Suburban, which has LT265/75R16E's on 16x10
alloys rated for 3.2K.
mysub mysuburban
