Alternative stove

[ajriding]

I am outfitting another rig, but looking for more simple stove. I would like to use something like a 2-burner Coleman camping/portable stove, but the last one I had from 30 yrs ago ran on 14WC and the 11WC out of the camper regulator was not enough to let stove do more than a simmer.

Are there any portable units like that which run on 11WC?

I would like to semi permanent mount it and have option to attach hose outside or inside so I can move the stove.

The little green bottles they come with will not do, so that is out, it must be plumbed into the camper's propane source.

[Grit_dog]

JRscooby wrote:
Most times inside I just need to heat a couple cups of water. Coffee press, instant whatever, I use my old Jet-Boil.
A little butane one burner is used a lot for heating leftovers. I have never shot my eye out using the propane Coleman inside.
My wife has a picture of me stir gravy with 1 hand, holding umbrella over DO and skillet with the other. We ate biscuits and gravy inside.

Ha, but one of my buddies almost did with a little Coleman propane radiant heater.
Story goes, he came home drunk from the bar, fired up the little heater in his old camper (camper was a strong word to use for it, lol). And him and the dog went to sleep.
He woke up cold, heater out, click, click BOOM!

We showed up the next morning to go snowmobiling and he was sitting outside by a campfire with no eyebrows and his camper door lodged firmly in the snow about 20' behind the camper!
Poor dog had gotten a haircut too!
Was funny since no one was hurt!

[ajriding]

Yes, any food that has strong odor that lingers or is greasy. I will have a vent hood over the stove, but will cook the natural bacon outside when possible. There are meals I would never cook due to the odor or grease…
Side note, I use a small pressure cooker for as much as possible so steam is all I have to vent.
Put the Fantastic Fan in reverse to help the vent hood out.

[JRscooby]

Most times inside I just need to heat a couple cups of water. Coffee press, instant whatever, I use my old Jet-Boil.
A little butane one burner is used a lot for heating leftovers. I have never shot my eye out using the propane Coleman inside.
My wife has a picture of me stir gravy with 1 hand, holding umbrella over DO and skillet with the other. We ate biscuits and gravy inside.

[doxiemom11]

Sorry - shouldn't have said "bottle" of propane. I meant a small tank of propane. Like a 20# tank you would use with a grill.

[magicbus]

The upside is I can cook outside those meals I would never do inside

Like those involving the wok I would expect! :B

I think my wife would kill me if I tried to put my wok in one of the cupboards.

Dave

[ajriding]

Many good suggestions. My plan is this, and this can be altered easily.
I bought this on ebay $27


which is one-burner and does not take up much space. I will use the 1lb propane for now and reserve the option to add something at the 20lb tank to send both 11 and 14WC so both stove and heater will run off the 20lb tank.
I often need two stoves when cooking so will either get another one of these, for $27 shipped this time, or maybe a two-burner down the road. I like that this is one also so less counter space needed in a small kitchen.
It is not ideal, but bigger renno projects come first.
It i big enough for my wok yet will hold my little coffee maker. It has rubber feet so will not scratch also.
The upside is I can cook outside those meals I would never do inside which have the downside.
thanks

[JaxDad]

Why would it matter if it meets today’s code or not?

Compliance to the codes in effect on the date of manufacture is all that’s ever required.

The law says I have to wear the seatbelt in my daily driver, my 1934 Ford doesn’t even have seat belts, so I can’t be ticketed for not wearing one.

[CavemanCharlie]

JaxDad wrote:
I really just don't understand why life safety laws are such a hard concept to grasp.

If you build a S & B's it has to comply with building code, electrical code, etc., etc., and those are in form a permit which has been signed off on.

If you drive a vehicle on public roads it must be built to a certain safety standards, the FMVSS, the proof of that compliance is a manufacturers certification label in the drivers door jamb.

An RV, a vehicle / living quarters hybrid, must conform to BOTH of those type of safety standards with its tires. wheels, brakes, hitch frame, 120 volt electrical system, propane system, fire egress, etc., etc., etc.......

Actually, 😄 there is no way my home built in 1942 would ever comply with modern building codes and trying to bring it up to those standards would cost more then the house is worth and I would end up living in my camper.

My older vehicles might have been built to the standards for the date of their manufacture but, would not be up to today's standards.


My 1993 Travel Trailer is probably not up to code anymore either.

Kay sir rah sir rah. Whatever will be, will be. (Doris Day sang that I think didn't she ??)

[JaxDad]

magicbus wrote:
Nobody is saying work shouldn’t conform to codes, but nowhere in the codes you have cited is RVIA certification called for. You keep making that part up!

Dave

No Dave, with all due respect, I’m not making anything up, and I never said “RVIA certified” was required. I said, and the citations I posted said ‘proof of compliance’ was required. If it isn’t certified, how do you provide “proof of compliance”.

Proof of compliance IS required, and in most cases, as I mentioned earlier, that is in the form of an “RVIA Seal”. The RVIA doesn’t certify anything, read the seal itself, it says “Manufacturer certifies compliance with standard for recreational vehicles ANSI/NFPA 1192.”

[magicbus]

Nobody is saying work shouldn’t conform to codes, but nowhere in the codes you have cited is RVIA certification called for. You keep making that part up!

Dave

[JaxDad]

I really just don't understand why life safety laws are such a hard concept to grasp.

If you build a S & B's it has to comply with building code, electrical code, etc., etc., and those are in form a permit which has been signed off on.

If you drive a vehicle on public roads it must be built to a certain safety standards, the FMVSS, the proof of that compliance is a manufacturers certification label in the drivers door jamb.

An RV, a vehicle / living quarters hybrid, must conform to BOTH of those type of safety standards with its tires. wheels, brakes, hitch frame, 120 volt electrical system, propane system, fire egress, etc., etc., etc.......

[magicbus]

Well this is going nowhere. There is a not so subtle difference between proof of compliance and certification. We’ll just have to agree to disagree.

Dave

[JaxDad]

magicbus wrote:

unless the vehicle owner provides reasonable proof of compliance with ANSI Standard No. A119.2... unless the vehicle complies with which ever applies...

Compliance is required, certification is not. No surprise there.

Dave

Dave, your own quote makes you wrong.

"unless the vehicle owner provides reasonable proof of compliance"

Proof of compliance.

With a typical RV that is the certification seal near the door.

[magicbus]

unless the vehicle owner provides reasonable proof of compliance with ANSI Standard No. A119.2... unless the vehicle complies with which ever applies...

Compliance is required, certification is not. No surprise there.

Dave