Asphalt storage pad

[TheGumpster]

I'm extending my driveway (12' wide) by 17 feet so I can park my 33' Forest River 5th wheel on it for a few days before and after our trips. We have an offsite storage facility for long-term storage. The dry weight is 10,000 pounds, axle dry weight is 8,000 pounds, hitch weight 2,000 pounds. It is a dual axle. When parked, we will have 2x12's (2' long) under the rear stabilizers and under the front jacks. I'm getting quotes for the asphalt. One contractor says 4" crush run and 2-1/2" hot mix will do the job. The other contractor says 6" crush run and 3" hot mix and is using the "better safe than sorry" argument. Where can I get an objective opinion on how thick the asphalt needs to be?

[bid_time]

Anyone that thinks concrete is a superior product should come over and look at my driveway then try to tell me how great it is without me busting out laughing at you. The fact is, dollar for dollar they are comparable (equivalent). The real issue is preparation and execution. The are both only as good as the design and workmanship.

[manualman]

If you do concrete, skip the wire mesh and spend that money on extra thickness: 5". Then be sure to tool or cut joints so that no individual slab is more than 15'x15'.

And make sure there is NO topsoil under the 4" crushed gravel base and that it's firm. If it's mushy, cut more until you get to firm ground and add more gravel base (called "undercut" in the biz).

Wire mesh is too small to do any good if the base is soft and there is no usefulness to it if the base is good. So it's overall worthless (besides, most concrete guys end up stepping on it during the pour and it's not even located in the middle of the concrete where it could actually do a miniscule amount of good.

BTW, I charge clients $190/hr for the above sort of advice. Take it or leave it, no charge! RVer secret handshake 😉

[Cummins12V98]

Pour 4" of 6 sack concrete with 6x6 wire mesh over 6" washed pea gravel. Pea gravel requires NO compaction, it goes down at 100 Percent.

Poured my RV pad like that 15 years ago and it still looks great.

[Sam_Spade]

TheGumpster wrote:
I did not consider concrete because the current driveway is asphalt. What are the advantages of concrete vs. asphalt?

Stronger. If you pour a "standard" 4" thickness with wire or rebar, or fibercrete it is MUCH stronger and more permanent. You can even choose a color if you want. Surfaces range from almost glass smooth to rough brush if you need extra traction. Also seems like I remember that it doesn't usually require as thick a base.

[JIMNLIN]

My son put up a 60'x80' with a 16' center high bay trailer shed. His asphalt contractor has done this for over 40 years. He recommended parking all heavy trailers on wood boards at least 3' long under each tire so as not to create a permanent low spot.

My trailer and tractor sheds are just limestone crusher run. If I had a choice/money I would rather have a concrete floor. Makes for a smooth hard surface for small wheels like my creeper or a trailer tongue jack with a wheel or a floorjack or other things we want to move around on small wheels.

[spoon059]

Asphalt will likely fail under such a heavy vehicle. Normal driveways in my area are typically 4" thick asphalt over 6" of compacted stone... and they are designed to handle the weight of a 5000-7000 lbs vehicle. 8000 lbs axles is a LOT of weight in a small area. Asphalt takes a year to completely cure, and they recommend that you don't park in the same spot for long periods of time until it cures. I think you will be greatly disappointed with asphalt.

If you want asphalt to tie in to your existing driveway, I would strongly encourage you to prep and pour concrete pads for your axles and front jacks, then get asphalt laid around those pads and tie it in to the rest of the driveway.

If not, I would have a MUCH thicker base of gravel, and make sure they install the gravel in 2-3" lifts and thoroughly compact the gravel between lifts. An asphalt driveway is only as good as the foundation. If/when the foundation settles, the asphalt will settle, causing potholes or ruts.

[NYCgrrl]

TheGumpster wrote:
I did not consider concrete because the current driveway is asphalt. What are the advantages of concrete vs. asphalt?

Concrete lasts longer and requires less maintenance over it's useful life than asphalt. Conversely, concrete generally costs more from the start up. Generally, over time you'll spend less on concrete.

Check with local contractors for cost differentials.

[Ivylog]

The 4 yds of concrete is done in one step. It's stronger than asphalt which is a wear surface... Very little strength and more people can do concrete as no expensive equipment needed. The DW and I used to do 4 yds after supper when the local concrete company had left over at the end of the day.

[korbe]

I believe 2.5" of AC is fine for your application if the base and sub-base are prepared and compacted properly.

[TheGumpster]

I did not consider concrete because the current driveway is asphalt. What are the advantages of concrete vs. asphalt?

[gbopp]

Sam Spade wrote:
Have you considered and/or priced concrete ?

X2.

[Sam_Spade]

westend wrote:
The preparation of the gravel bed is more important than the thickness of the asphalt, especially if differing by only 1/2". I'd go with the 6" subbase and the 3" of asphalt. The contractor knows what has worked for him and his customers.

+1
The base should be CA6, road pack and it should BE packed.
Have you considered and/or priced concrete ?

[DutchmenSport]

Just like tow vehicles .... bigger is better. You'll never be sorry for going with the thicker pad. If you go thinner and it begins to crumble in a couple years, you'll be VERY disappointed. Do it right the first time and you'll have no regrets later.

[westend]

The preparation of the gravel bed is more important than the thickness of the asphalt, especially if differing by only 1/2". I'd go with the 6" subbase and the 3" of asphalt. The contractor knows what has worked for him and his customers.