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Best small electric heaters

kaz442
Explorer
Explorer
Looking for a small electric heater. What are the safest models?
Thanks JKaz
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travelnutz
Explorer II
Explorer II
myredracer,

The total voltage drop in the 6' long 16 gauge power cord (13 amp load rating) stranded copper wire with 1500 watts (12.5 amps) at 120 volts of AC going to the electric heater is only 6/10 of 1 volt. Meaning the heater is getting 119.4 volts of the 120 volts at the outlet. Negligible loss and means the 1500 watts would only drop to 1492.5 watts delivered to the heater's element due to voltage drop! The 16 gauge heater wire is not the issue at all for not getting a 1500 watts reading as claimed of the watts being consumed.

Further, even assuming there's 120 volts actually measured at the RV's entry circuit breaker box from shore power and then having a run of 25' of 14 gauge copper wire to the outlet the heater is plugged into, there still would only be a 1.6 volt drop at the outlet the actual heater wire is plugged into and with the heater turned on high selection. The 120 volts at the breaker would still measure 118.4 volts being delivered to the heater 16 gauge power cord. Check the voltage drop charts for yourself.

These 2 things are not the reason for the electric heater actually only drawing a measured 1300 or 1400 watts rather than the 1500 watts claimed by the manufacturer. Therefore, such heater will not deliver 5120 BTU's nor will it measure to be drawing 12.5 amps either.

Conversely, I can assure you that every 100 watt incandescent light bulb I've ever checked actually draws 100 watts just like is printed on the bulb but never had a claimed 1500 watt electric heater actually draw even as much as 1400 watts or even close to 12 amps of 120 volt AC.
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myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
smkettner wrote:
SoundGuy wrote:
MrWizard wrote:
Most are around 1500 watts which is 12.5 amps at 120vac ...


In theory yes but in reality hardly does any electric heater advertised or labelled as "1500 watts" actually consume that much power, in some cases much less. I have a gaggle of so-called "1500 watt" electric heaters and only one of them comes anywhere near close to drawing 1500 watts, rather ~ 1440 watts, with all the rest much less. My Kill-a-Watt meter is a handy device for measuring actual draw like this. ๐Ÿ™‚
I believe the rating is at 125 volts. Wattage drops fast because with less voltage there is also less amperage.


Most portable heaters have 16 gauge cords and if you include the voltage drop in the supply wiring to the recept. it's plugged into I would guess that a heating element never sees the nominal rated voltage. If you look at the label on a heater it will say "120 volts" on it and it would have to comply with a UL standard and be ETL or CSA, etc. safety listed. The correct way to see if a heater draws it advertised wattage would be to open it up and measure the voltage at the element's terminals and if necessary compensate by calculation if the measured voltage isn't at it's rated/listed voltage.

TNRIVERSIDE
Explorer
Explorer
Road Dog wrote:
I have been using a Vornado for6 years. The best I have found after owning all the others. It's quiet and yet it moves the air all over the coach. I think I paid $79. Great product!


I agree that the Vornado has one of the best portable heaters on the market. Be aware that they too have a large line of heaters. Some really basic.
The greatest selling point for me is that Vornado has a few models that the fan can be set to be on continues and the heat cycles as needed. This offers a continuous white noise. I really dislike a heater that wakes me up as it cycles on and off.
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Jeff

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
SoundGuy wrote:
MrWizard wrote:
Most are around 1500 watts which is 12.5 amps at 120vac ...


In theory yes but in reality hardly does any electric heater advertised or labelled as "1500 watts" actually consume that much power, in some cases much less. I have a gaggle of so-called "1500 watt" electric heaters and only one of them comes anywhere near close to drawing 1500 watts, rather ~ 1440 watts, with all the rest much less. My Kill-a-Watt meter is a handy device for measuring actual draw like this. ๐Ÿ™‚
I believe the rating is at 125 volts. Wattage drops fast because with less voltage there is also less amperage.

rhagfo
Explorer III
Explorer III
While space heaters are cost effective, the one thing they don't do in cold weather is heat the basement. I have also heated the 5er with a couple small 1500 watt heaters set on low in both ends of the trailer. We only did that due to the partial failure of our propane regulator.

I really don't like using portable electric heaters, but our hand was forced. I have chosen to go a different route for electric heating.

The product name is not accurate as the units are not inexpensive, but provides electric heat directly into the duct system to heat basement and H2O pipes.

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GoPackGo
Explorer
Explorer
I fulltime and have used one of the oil filled heaters for 3 years now while over-wintering in the brutal arctic conditions of Florida. It's great. Totally silent and has high and low settings. It just seems to put out a lot of heat. Seems more 'gentle' then the other types.

I also have another oscillating fan driven electric heater, but I don't use it since I discovered the oil filled type.

The oil filled type takes a few minutes to get going and put out heat but they never seem to get too hot to the touch (especially on low). It also has a tip over switch. They are simple, cheap, and seem like a very safe alternative.

I have an overhead fan in my fiver and usually set it under the fan to disperse the heat. Failing that, one could get a small, quiet, box fan to set behind it.

eichacsj
Explorer
Explorer
kaz442 wrote:
Looking for a small electric heater. What are the safest models?
Thanks JKaz


The one you don't use in an RV.

What is your main goal. To burn down your RV or freeze the plumbing.(both rhetorical)

Seen to many after effects of portable heaters.
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myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
SoundGuy wrote:
myredracer wrote:
If you are able to do a bit of wiring, another option altogether is to install a "kickspace" heater below the range. This particular brand is the same width as the stove. I just removed the original piece of wood between the door and range and moved the door down a little. With a heater like this, it's completely out of the way and has all the required safety clearances. The location of your panel could be a deciding factor tho. If needed, wiring can be run through a ceiling and inside interior wall cavities. This heater is very quiet and you can listen to the TV no problem.


Great solution! Got a brand name / model for that heater? :@


It's made by Stelpro. There are about 5-6 manufacturers of these and they vary in width. King makes a good one that has adjustable tap settings of 250 to 1500 watts but is only 17 1/2" wide. Our range opening is 21 1/2" wide.

Dakzuki
Explorer
Explorer
The best portable small heater with a fan I have found to date is the little Broan 6201 cube. I had a couple of other small ceramic heaters with fans that I bought at big box stores and they were garbage. The Broan is built like a tank and is very small. For non fan heaters, I have worn out two oil filled heaters (the switch/thermostat assembly overheated and failed) so I now have a Delonghi HMP1500 mica panel heater that I've used for several years now. While slightly larger in HxW than an oil heater it weighs much less. That is our go to heater when we are winter RVing and want it to be dead quiet. We Have the Delonghi plugged into a Lux WIN100 programmable thermostat that sits in an outlet.
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SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
MrWizard wrote:
Most are around 1500 watts which is 12.5 amps at 120vac ...


In theory yes but in reality hardly does any electric heater advertised or labelled as "1500 watts" actually consume that much power, in some cases much less. I have a gaggle of so-called "1500 watt" electric heaters and only one of them comes anywhere near close to drawing 1500 watts, rather ~ 1440 watts, with all the rest much less. My Kill-a-Watt meter is a handy device for measuring actual draw like this. ๐Ÿ™‚

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beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
travelnutz wrote:
...for all practical purposes using 117 AC is approx 340 BTU's for each 100 watts consumed. 1500 watts = 5120 BTU's capability, 1000 watts = 3400 BTU's, 750 watts = 2550 BTU's. Just for a quick reference.....


True and it is the same for a $500 "Amish Built" heater or a $10 Walmart heater. The heat output and the electrical consumption is identical.
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Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
mike-s wrote:

I like the small ceramic heaters - the heating element doesn't get as hot as the old nichrome wire heaters, which makes them a bit safer. Some of them have a lower power setting. All UL listed space heaters are required to have "tip over" safety shutoffs.


those ceramic heaters can singe a bed spread if it is sitting on the floor and you happen to kick the covers off. don't ask how I know this.
bumpy

FunnyCamper
Explorer II
Explorer II
when we had an enclosed toybox in our 40 ft 5th---it was always cold back there (it was the kid's room when camping) so we bought a 1200 watt oil radiator from a box store, Target or such? Not expensive at all and warms up the place so nicely! Silent and perfect.

We went smaller into a 34 ft toyhauler tagalong, I doubt we will need to use it anymore other than to save propane? Not sure if we will use it this season, will see on that but one thing I know, they last forever and they do what is needed.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
How small, size ? Power ? Or both ?
Most are around 1500 watts which is 12.5 amps at 120vac , some have a lower heat setting
Like 900w or 700w

I have a Lasko personal size desk heater
Only 200 Watts, that I some times use under my desk at night in the winter
Good for my legs and feet, or maybe taking the chill out of the kitchen
But it won't warm the the whole RV
Some times run it off inverter while driving in the winter, to make a warm spot for the Fur kids
Etc..
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travelnutz
Explorer II
Explorer II
Think about it! 2 electric cube heaters running on low selection (750-800 watts or slightly higher, 6 amps +) are a lot safer as to being a fire hazard/wiring load potential issues than having just one electric heater drawing 1500 watts from one 15 amp circuit and having the one heater getting much hotter. Also gives true zone control for desired temperature in both areas and overall. Also provides a real backup on hand heater situation incase the just having of one fails in the nighttime when stores near a CG are usually closed. Called - being prepared and smarter/safer RV'ing!
A superb CC LB 4X4, GM HD Diesel, airbags, Rancho's, lots more
Lance Legend TC 11' 4", loaded including 3400 PP generator and my deluxe 2' X 7' rear porch
29 ft Carriage Carri-lite 5'er - a specially built gem
A like new '07 Sunline Solaris 26' TT