Dometic RM2554 (General question)

[Stevepro172]

I have a Dometic RM2554 that hasn't really worked correctly since new. My RV has 2 side vents that I have added 4 fans for airflow. Also added a in fridge fan. Anytime the temp is under 50 degrees the freezer and refrig are fine. Any higher and the refrige will be between 40-50 degrees. Freezer will stay between 20-30 degrees. My question is can I cut out the freezer box and let that air circulate in hopes to keep the fridge under 40 degrees? Anyone ever try that? I don't need the freezer section.

If you don't think that will work do you think I would have better luck with a Norcold replacement? Looking at a N510. I'm not sold that side venting is the way to go but to keep the layout I have I can't vent through the roof which seems like the way to go.

thanks
Steve

[dave17352]

ctilsie242 wrote:
One thing I do to supplement the cooling of the fridge part is to have about 4-5 freezer packs. Every day or so, I swap 1-2 between the freezer and the top part of the fridge. The little blue fan does the rest, keeping the fridge part at a usable temperature.

I learned this here and also do it when ever it gets really warm outside and it works great.

[ctilsie242]

One thing I do to supplement the cooling of the fridge part is to have about 4-5 freezer packs. Every day or so, I swap 1-2 between the freezer and the top part of the fridge. The little blue fan does the rest, keeping the fridge part at a usable temperature.

[dave17352]

My propane fridge works as good as they can. My temp is 7 below in the freezer and the fridge is right at 37. That's as of last night. The installers put the curved metal in at the top and it draws really good!

All of that said when it gets really hot like 95 plus or driving in really sunny hot weather it suffers. When and maybe before mine dies it will be replaced with a 12 volt compressor fridge. They operate like a residential fridge and can keep your food nice and cold regardless of outside temp.

If you have a fridge that won't work and your venting is correct I would suggest you look into a nova kool or similar replacement 12 volt fridge. They make them to fit almost any standard opening. They also have the advantage of not needing to be level to operate. JMHO

[Stevepro172]

lap527 wrote:
Does fridge always do it regardless of moving or parked? Yes sir old biscuit hit the nail on the head about proper airflow. We fought the same battle for 3 years but finally got it right and now it works great.

Yep, doesn't matter if it's on shore power or running off of LP

[Stevepro172]

RV is 3 years old and hasn't worked right since the day I got it. The first year really never used the fridge and by the time I realized it wasn't working correctly it was out of warranty. I also replace the thermistor (no difference) and there was a 1" gap around the top and side that I filled in with installation. I'm out of ideas.

[enblethen]

Diagram M on the installation is a common installation problem. If installer does not install curved metal to deflect air flow out the top opening, air flow will get stopped at the top of the chimney and cooling unit.

[lap527]

Does fridge always do it regardless of moving or parked? Yes sir old biscuit hit the nail on the head about proper airflow. We fought the same battle for 3 years but finally got it right and now it works great.

[Old-Biscuit]

There is NO direct connection between freezer and food compartment on an absorption fridge.
Both compartments have their OWN evap coils for cooling.

And I don't care how many FANS you add if RV MFG. screwed up the installation of that Dometic Fridge.
Absorption fridges are about PROPER airflow not just airflow.

That has an installation requirement of 0" (ZERO) sidewall clearances, 0" (ZERO) top clearance, 0" (ZERO) bottom clearance and most importantly 0"/1" (ZERO/ 1" MAX) backwall clearance

If bigger clearances exists then 'dead air' happens.......hot air stays....chimney effect lacking.
And w/o baffles/blocking the airflow will NOT go in/around/thru the necessary areas of cooling unit to remove the heat being released.
Lack of adequate/proper heat removal......LACK OF COOLING EFFECT

Installation Manual---pg. 5 clearance requirements

[donn0128]

My side vent works great. How old is it? Have you tried adjusting the thermister that is mounted on the far right fin? Have you tried blowing out the chimney? Have you tried cleaning the burner tube?
Replacing it with a nevercold definitely is NOT the way to go. Figure out what is going on and fix it instead.
BTW, there are several discussions on how to improve side vent refers on here and other forums.