First tow with new TT

[Cooter_76]

The DW (that stands for Deranged Woman, right?) and I recently purchased our first TT. I'm not new to towing in general, but this was my first experience with a WD hitch, electric trailer brakes and a trailer with such a large profile. After we purchased the trailer I towed it 200 miles to my parents' house near the TX coast (mostly interstate and mostly with a headwind.) The experience was OK, but I certainly can't claim that "I almost forgot the trailer was back there." The truck felt a bit...wallowy and the trailer would easily get sucked-into the airflow of any passing 18-wheelers. I'm hoping to get some advice to help dial-in my setup.

The WD hitch is a standard round-bar type with a friction sway control. The RV dealership installed the hitch on the trailer and had the head/stinger setup prior to installing on my TV. I took a pre-hookup front wheel well measurement of 37.5". We hooked-up the trailer and put the full weight on the truck (bars not installed) and I took another measurement at 38". Was surprised to see only 1/2" movement. The technician set the chain length on the WD bars so that the front wheel well was back to 37.5".
After about 20 miles, my seat-of-the-pants gauge said there was too much float going on in the rear end, so I lengthened the chains by one link, which brought the front end to 37.75". That helped, but the truck still felt like it had too much lateral movement.
I'm running the original P275/65R18 tires that came from the factory. I'll probably step up to a stiffer tire when the time comes to replace these.
After comparing my setup to other pics I see on RV.net, I think my trailer is setup with the nose too high. How much difference in towing performance would there be between a trailer that's a bit nose-high vs level (or a bit nose-low?)
Regarding the friction sway control adjustment, the Technician said just tighten it up, but not too tight (pretty precise instructions.) I may not have had it tight enough. The label on the sway control says to run-out all of the threads on the adjustment bolt. Any opinions here?

Would appreciate any suggestions.

Here are some pics of my setup for reference:

[4X4Dodger]

Well many here are correct that you need to get the nose down to at least level.

You need a good set of LT tires for your truck at MAX PSI.

What you DO NOT need is sway control. if your trailer is loaded and hitched correctly (level) and YOU DRIVE IT PROPERLY sway will not be a problem.

I have never used any type of sway control and travel many thousands of miles on all types of roads. My trailer follows straight and true and does not sway. It's how you drive it not the stuff you attach to it that counts.

[hawkeye-08]

Thanks for coming back an updating us. Always good to hear positive results.

[Cooter_76]

It's been a year since I towed my (no longer new) TT. We've been using it as a guest house at my parents' place. We plan to start taking the trailer on trips soon, so it was time to take it into town for TX state inspection, so that I could renew the registration. I dug this thread up and made some changes, based on the advice provided:
- Increased tire pressure in the TV to the 44 PSI max on the tire
- Dropped the hitch head down one hole on the shank
- Kept my speed at or below 65
- Increased tension on the sway control
The towing experience was much more relaxed this time out. There's still a bit of squirm in the TV's rear end, but hopefully some stiffer tires will solve that. Thanks for all the advice!

[campigloo]

You do look a bit nose high. Your truck is a little light for that trailer. Get some LT tires and don't be afraid to air them up. I run mine at 80 PSI when towing and 45 empty. Definitely get a second sway bar. If you are set up correctly, that hitch will do a nice job. I have also found that the tires most trailers come with have marginal load capability. EazLift has a great web site for setting the hitch properly. Trailer should be level to slightly nose down. Take a look at new shocks too. If the truck has more than 30-40000 miles they have probably about had it. Love the Bilsteins on my 3/4T. Play with the hitch adjustments, it may take several tries before you hit that sweet spot. Good luck and enjoy the new camper!

[Cooter_76]

jmtandem wrote:
If you want to upgrade to a hitch that eliminates sway, not just mitigates it, get the ProPride or Hensley. They are in a completely different hemisphere concerning sway elimination from the Equalizer or other friction based hitches.

My neighbor has already extolled the virtues of the Hensley in great detail. He loves it, towing a 28'ish Airstream behind a Tundra. Maybe when we retire in 30 years we can afford one. 🙂

[Cooter_76]

Improved gas mileage would be nice. I managed a flat 8MPG on my trek! Was hoping for 10.

[scbwr]

Cooter_76 wrote:
Tires were set at the 35 PSI per the sticker on my door. Max PSI on the tire is listed at 44. I'll add some air the next time I tow.

Will stick with this hitch setup for now. If I wind up towing more often than I anticipate (twice/year) I might invest in a better WD setup.

Raising the tire pressure to the max may improve your gas mileage as well. Ditto on lowering the hitch height of the trailer and keeping speed down. On my rig, gas mileage improves at 60 vs 65, and I don't mind taking my time and lettings others pass. I'll pull over if I have to so traffic can get by me if on a two lane road.

[Campfire_Time]

At some point you will need tires. If you don't get LTs, look for P rated tires that allow for a higher PSI. Mine let me go to 51 PSI (Kumho Road Venture). Makes for a nice towing experience.

As far as towing speed, I'm not sure it was mentioned (my apologies if it was), but the trailer has ST tires, most of which have a limit of 65mph.

I tow a little above 60. You'll see some decent mileage improvements running below 65 mph. Most people see their "sweet spot" between 55-63 mph.

[Ron3rd]

APT wrote:
Start with those free changes, lower ball height, restore all weight (or estimated by body height) front axle weight, increase tire air pressure when towing. I suspect you'll see improvements.

X2, and inflating the tires to the max 44 psi will make a big difference as well as getting the nose on trailer down and getting your hitch dialed in. You can always add the second friction sway control if you want.

As to going with the Equalizer Brand Hitch, that's what I run now and it is an improvement over the type you have, but I can still feel the big rigs go by.

[skipnchar]

From your photos you appear to be a little bit nose high which CAN induce instability. It is usually preferred that if you can't be perfectly level then a little nose down is better. IN the for what it's worth area, integrated anti sway systems like Reese Duel Cam or Equalizer (if you prefer friction based) are both much better at eliminating the effects of bow wave and wind on the trailer. The friction bar, though SHOULD do an adequate job but is probably JUST within the specs for your trailer as they generally limit them to 25' trailer and under that length. You COULD just add a second friction bar but still would not be exerting as much force as a duel cam or equalizer would in keeping your rig straight and stable.
Good luck / Skip

[Cooter_76]

jerem0621 wrote:


OP...I also suggest to add a second sway bar. You can find the sway control for around $30.00 online at Harbor freight and then use the 20% off coupon.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

Thanks, I might look into this if I'm still not comfortable after I've tweaked my existing setup.

[APT]

Start with those free changes, lower ball height, restore all weight (or estimated by body height) front axle weight, increase tire air pressure when towing. I suspect you'll see improvements.

[jerem0621]

cbwallace wrote:

tonymull wrote:
If you think getting sucked in by big rigs is normal you really need to try an Equal-I-Zer or Reese...you won't feel them any more'

I absolutely agree! I have towed several thousand miles on busy Interstates with an Equalizer hitch and not sure I can recall a single time I was sucked in by a passing vehicle.

Two friction bars work the same in my experience as well. Both are friction style sway control.

OP...I also suggest to add a second sway bar. You can find the sway control for around $30.00 online at Harbor freight and then use the 20% off coupon.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[cbwallace]

tonymull wrote:
If you think getting sucked in by big rigs is normal you really need to try an Equal-I-Zer or Reese...you won't feel them any more'

I absolutely agree! I have towed several thousand miles on busy Interstates with an Equalizer hitch and not sure I can recall a single time I was sucked in by a passing vehicle.