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Got me a little electrical issue

Cheryl_B
Explorer
Explorer
While monkeying with the bulb in my shower stall so it would stop flickering on and off, I shorted out something. Now none of the lights will work in my bathroom, my bedroom or the hall closet. And strangely, the outside light by the side door.

All other lights are fine, everything else is working as it should. All electrical plugs have power, all breaker box switches are set to on, no fuses found anywhere to be replaced. I'm pretty clueless on this.

I'm in a 1985 Rockwood Chevy Class C. Thanks for any help figuring this out. I don't have the economical lights and can't tell you amps from volts but they are the original energy-hogging bulbs that the fixtures use.
1985 Class C Chevy Rockwood, 27'
Fulltiming since June, 2016. Flying solo but I'm never alone.
Fear not the unknown, but the fear itself.
35 REPLIES 35

TenOC
Nomad
Nomad
D.E.Bishop wrote:
I'm kind of surprised that no one has suggested that the OP buy an automotive test light instead of pulling the fuses one at a time. She needs to get a variety of fuses so why not get a basic 12vdc trouble shooting tool at the same time.



2X Also get the small plastic tool to help remove and replace the fuses.
Please give me enough troubles, uncertainty, problems, obstacles and STRESS so that I do not become arrogant, proud, and smug in my own abilities, and enough blessings and good times that I realize that someone else is in charge of my life.

Travel Photos

down_home
Explorer II
Explorer II
Reminds me again I need to got to the parts store and get a kit of fuses and a puller. And to put a circuit tester in the box with them.
Can't see the blown fuse in tight areas half the time.
Then there are a few old car type fuses, have to get some of them too, maybe they have a kit or box with a selection of 5,10, 5 and whatever else, Plus I have at least tow large 20 amp fuses.

down_home
Explorer II
Explorer II
Reminds me again I need to got to the parts store and get a kit of fuses and a puller. And to put a circuit tester in the box with them.
Can't see the blown fuse in tight areas half the time.
Then there are a few old car type fuses, have to get some of them too, maybe they have a kit or box with a selection of 5,10, 5 and whatever else, Plus I have at least tow large 20 amp fuses.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
"I guess I could bum one from a neighbor."

I would give you a fuse but expect a new one returned. I don't carry extra spare fuses for those that don't carry fuses nor do I want to stop on a trip at an auto parts store etc. to buy an extra fuse replacing one given to someone who didn't carry extra fuses.
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi Cheryl,

How about posting a picture of the blue plastic thangs?

Cheryl_B wrote:
I'll see how those blue plastic things pull off the breaker box. They seem to have 3 lift-up tops. Not sure if they do but I'll play around with them and see how it goes.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

D_E_Bishop
Explorer
Explorer
I'm kind of surprised that no one has suggested that the OP buy an automotive test light instead of pulling the fuses one at a time. She needs to get a variety of fuses so why not get a basic 12vdc trouble shooting tool at the same time.

The plastic fuses have part of the connections on each side of the link exposed exactly for this purpose.

It has been my feeling that many here feel that a test light is too old school and a DMM is absolutely the only way to test electrical circuits, I wholeheartedly disagree. A test light is as valuable and accurate as a DMM for testing fuses. It frees up one hand and you don't have to change from looking at the contact point to the meter and back and forth fuse after fuse. Your peripheral vision will see the light in the handle or when you find the bad fuse the lack of light. It is not rocket science even though failure lights are very common in space craft.
"I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to go". R. L. Stevenson

David Bishop
2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V
2009 GMC Canyon
Roadmaster 5000
BrakeBuddy Classic II

kerrlakeRoo
Explorer
Explorer
Take out one of the bulbs that you are trying to replace and see if you can read the number on it 1156 or maybe a 1006 then check amazon for led automotive bulbs, there are led replacements for each for a buck or so a piece.
On the fuse, Its an automotive fuse, not RV specific, if you are in a commercial CG the camp store if they have one are likely to have GM fuses available for sale, any gas station, "C" store or auto parts store can as well.

Cheryl_B
Explorer
Explorer
I need to buy fuses cause I don't think there were any around in the RV when I bought it a year ago. In the meanwhile, I'll see how those blue plastic things pull off the breaker box. They seem to have 3 lift-up tops. Not sure if they do but I'll play around with them and see how it goes. I won't be leaving the campground for a few more days so fuses will have to wait until I'm out again. I don't have a car.

I guess I could bum one from a neighbor. ๐Ÿ˜‰

While were talking about energy-hogging lights, do I need to change out each of those fixtures or can I just buy different bulbs that use less power and use the same fixtures? Thanks.
1985 Class C Chevy Rockwood, 27'
Fulltiming since June, 2016. Flying solo but I'm never alone.
Fear not the unknown, but the fear itself.

Lwiddis
Explorer II
Explorer II
Cheryl, do you have spare fuses to do the tests?
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad

rrupert
Explorer
Explorer
horton333 wrote:
wtmtnhiker wrote:

I agree it's likely the GFCI that is tripped, it may control power to many other outlets.


The GFI has nothing to do with a 12 volt light circuits, it is for 115 volt outlets.

If you look beside those blue plugs, the fuses, there may be a small red LED light on very close to the fuse. If there is that is the fuse that is blown. Otherwise as suggested pull them out one by one. You can see the melted wire inside of the blown fuse after you pull them out.


Many times the fuses look okay but they may burned on a spot that doesn't show up visually. That's where either trying a different fuse or testing the fuse is important.
Rich and Joyce
2018 Jayco Jay Flight 21QB
2012 Ford F150 4X4 Supercrew EcoBoost
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horton333
Explorer
Explorer
wtmtnhiker wrote:

I agree it's likely the GFCI that is tripped, it may control power to many other outlets.


The GFI has nothing to do with a 12 volt light circuits, it is for 115 volt outlets.

If you look beside those blue plugs, the fuses, there may be a small red LED light on very close to the fuse. If there is that is the fuse that is blown. Otherwise as suggested pull them out one by one. You can see the melted wire inside of the blown fuse after you pull them out.
......................................

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wtmtnhiker
Explorer
Explorer
down home wrote:
Look for the wall plug with the reset button in the middle and push it.
Ground Fault probably kicked out and everything on that circuit won't work.
Usually one near kitchen/shower and another elsewhere or two circuits.
If it stays tripped won't reset, then there is a short, now. Find the two wires or more touching and repair.

I agree it's likely the GFCI that is tripped, it may control power to many other outlets.
bgbassman(bluegrass bass man)

NanciL
Explorer II
Explorer II
It is a blown 12 volt fuse and the easiest way to pull them is with a pair of needle nose pliars. Then look at the metal loop that goes from one leg to the other. When you find the one that is open in the middle, that is it. Replace it with the same color.

the only problem is it will blow again if you don't correct the fault in that light.

Jack l
Jack & Nanci

SCVJeff
Explorer
Explorer
There are two different conversations going on here. one about D.C., and the other looking for an AC GFI. While the OP was hinting at AC, unless this thing was rewired, it's D.C.

Assuming the OP has no experience with this stuff, I suggest taking the spare fuse (use a 10a temporarily) and systematically swapping them one by one as mentioned above. Sometimes you can see a open fuse link, sometimes not
Jeff - WA6EQU
'06 Itasca Meridian 34H, CAT C7/350

down_home
Explorer II
Explorer II
Look for the wall plug with the reset button in the middle and push it.
Ground Fault probably kicked out and everything on that circuit won't work.
Usually one near kitchen/shower and another elsewhere or two circuits.
If it stays tripped won't reset, then there is a short, now. Find the two wires or more touching and repair.