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How to avoid getting blown all over the road

MyersAvionics
Explorer
Explorer
Hello All,

Curious on how I can avoid wind blowing the camper and my truck all over the place to the point of it being really annoying to drive and causing me to not even want to use it.

I have RAM 1500 with the 5.7 V8. It doesn't work too hard to pull my 29' toy hauler (7k lbs empty and ~8.5k with stuff loaded) at 65mph down the road. The problem comes in that even with slight side wind gusts I'm blown all over the place and I have to slow down to about 50mph to keep it drivable.

I have a BlueOx hitch with sway controls as well as the trailer friction sway control.

I have LT tires and after getting the weight distribution down pat, I have also installed airbags in the springs to keep the truck level. This helped, but I am still getting blown around the road.

I'm to the point of looking at a larger 2500 diesel RAM, or a full on drivable RV toyhauler, or just an RV that I would put a standard trail behind.

Before I go to these (expensive) extremes. Does anyone on here have any advice on something I could be missing?

Thank you,
62 REPLIES 62

Kavoom
Explorer
Explorer
MyersAvionics wrote:
Hello All,

Curious on how I can avoid wind blowing the camper and my truck all over the place to the point of it being really annoying to drive and causing me to not even want to use it.

I have RAM 1500 with the 5.7 V8. It doesn't work too hard to pull my 29' toy hauler (7k lbs empty and ~8.5k with stuff loaded) at 65mph down the road. The problem comes in that even with slight side wind gusts I'm blown all over the place and I have to slow down to about 50mph to keep it drivable.

I have a BlueOx hitch with sway controls as well as the trailer friction sway control.

I have LT tires and after getting the weight distribution down pat, I have also installed airbags in the springs to keep the truck level. This helped, but I am still getting blown around the road.

I'm to the point of looking at a larger 2500 diesel RAM, or a full on drivable RV toyhauler, or just an RV that I would put a standard trail behind.

Before I go to these (expensive) extremes. Does anyone on here have any advice on something I could be missing?

Thank you,


Well, imho, I think Ram 1500 and 8.5K says it all... I have the same with a 10,500 max (yes, within capacity) at around 6500 loaded (5500 dry) and 800 wet tongue weight (27 feet 4 inches) and it seems to be a sweet spot. But you get a good wind gust and it lets you know in an unpleasant way... I have a Eastway E2 10K and it does a good job of allowing me to NOT lose control... Oh, I did get the after market airbags off Amazon installed for 280.00. They "damp" movement.

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
Grit dog wrote:
JRscooby wrote:
myredracer wrote:
Snip...

Just my thoughts... I hope the border re-opens some day so we can back to regular camping in the US.


I agree with most of what you say, but one bit is mis-leading;



He's from BC, eh!


LOL. I understand a lot of things change when you cross the border, but I don't think

"When you get struck by a sudden strong gust of wind, the force against 1/3 of the TT sidewall behind the axles and the force against 1/3 of the TT sidewall ahead of the axles cancel each other out."

would be true on either side of the border, when it comes to wind pushing a trailer around

mr_andyj
Explorer
Explorer
You did not say which Ram you have. Is it one of those dinky short wheelbase trucks with single cab and 5 foot bed, or is it a crew cab with an 8 foot bed?
Wheelbase makes a difference.
A long wheel base will make towing easier than with a short wheelbase.

I have doubt about what changing tires will do to combat wind.

If the wind blows against the side of your huge, yet fairly light-for-the-size trailer, then it is going to move.

The guy mentioned AirTabs, and that, or doing something to smooth out the airflow behind the trailer might be the biggest thing you can do to help. Think of those door flap things the big rigs have on some of their 53 foot trailers. That helps with mpg's but also with control as it smooths out the air flowing off the rear.
On my trailers I put all the roof junk at the front and nothing on the roof on the rear half as I want the air the have time to smooth out before dropping off the back. Every little bit helps.

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
JRscooby wrote:
myredracer wrote:
Snip...

Just my thoughts... I hope the border re-opens some day so we can back to regular camping in the US.


I agree with most of what you say, but one bit is mis-leading;



He's from BC, eh!
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
JRscooby wrote:
The OP might need to adjust his expectations.


Suppose it is fairly common with RVers as most don't have alot of experience towing?

You can tell by the ones who never really answer the questions about the conditions or symptoms, but just talk about how to to fix "it". Without being very specific what "it" is.
Or provide a basis for comparison.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
myredracer wrote:
Snip...

Just my thoughts... I hope the border re-opens some day so we can back to regular camping in the US.


I agree with most of what you say, but one bit is mis-leading;

When you get struck by a sudden strong gust of wind, the force against 1/3 of the TT sidewall behind the axles and the force against 1/3 of the TT sidewall ahead of the axles cancel each other out.


They do cancel with regard to introducing sway, but there is still a large force trying move the rig sideways. Reducing the action at the hinge TV/TT likely will reduce the oversteer, but even if you lock it solid it will take input from the driver to stay between the ditches. The OP might need to adjust his expectations.

GDS-3950BH
Explorer
Explorer
myredracer wrote:
Haven't been here ever since the border closure, but thought I would see what's up lately and saw this thread. Been meaning to post my thoughts on this subject for quite a while.

Ignoring what would happen if the wind is strong enough to tip the trailer over, here's a sketch showing what happens when there is a sudden sideways/lateral gust of wind. It's basic physics. For simplicity, assume the TT "box" is 30' long and that the centerline of the axles is 2/3 back from the front of the TT. When you get struck by a sudden strong gust of wind, the force against 1/3 of the TT sidewall behind the axles and the force against 1/3 of the TT sidewall ahead of the axles cancel each other out. What's left is the wind pushing against the most forward 1/3 (10') of the TT sidewall. Doesn't matter what speed you are travelling, the lateral force will be the same.

The sudden "punch" of wind then pushes the tongue laterally (sideways) against the hitch on the tow vehicle. That in turn wants to point the TV in a different direction. Result is, the driver then makes a steering correction to try going in a straight line down the road. Then the sudden gust of lateral wind stops (or reverses direction) and then the driver again makes a steering correction to maintain a straight line.

So if you are trying to drive on a stretch of road that is experiencing high lateral gusting wind, you are going to find it very difficult to maintain a straight line and could be dangerous. Slowing down substantially would be the first course of action.

To minimize the effect of gusting wind, you'd want to make the trailer and TV as least susceptible to lateral movement as possible by doing:

1 - have TT tires with higher load rating and inflate to max. side wall psi.
2 - install shocks on TT.
3 - use WDH with pro-active self-centering action like Reese DC and ensure it is properly adjusted.
4 - ensure TT is level to nose down and ensure WDH is properly adjusted to transfer sufficient weight back onto steer axle.
5 - have as much tongue weight as possible (up to 15% if TV can handle it.)
6 - install heavy duty shocks on TV.
7 - Use LT tires on TV with stiffer sidewalls (kevlar).
8 - inflate LT tires to max. psi on rear and say 70 psi on front.
9 - a 4x2 TV instead of 4x4 for lower center of gravity would help but just about all trucks now are 4x4.

I experienced high gusting side winds once on a trip on I-90 from Spokane to Seattle. Pretty dicey and it felt like driving on marbles, even at slow speed. Pulled over a rest stop and a truck driver said semis get blown over sometimes. Got to the destination CG and someone said even FWs have been known to get blown over there.

So we've done all of the above except we have the usual 4x4 truck. Have GY Endurance pumped up to 80 psi. Driving in strong side winds is WAY more stable now. At freeway speeds, tractor trailer units can pass all day long with no effect. It's as if I'm on rails now. If you get caught in severe winds, pull over somewhere and hope you don't get blown over. I don't know how well other WDHs like SwayPro and Equal-i-zer 4 point compare to a Reese DC but I would never give up ours for anything else. A longer wheelbase truck would help too like crew cab + long box.

Just my thoughts... I hope the border re-opens some day so we can back to regular camping in the US.




Holy cow, if I have to go through all that to take a trip to the campground, count me out.

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
^ So you stopped visiting this US based forum because the border was closed due to Covid? Lol

Some of your methodology is solid, but one thing not mentioned by you or anyone else, but something you said, โ€œdriver counter acts getting blown sideways...โ€

The absolute easiest way to minimize getting blown around, regardless of setup, is to let yourself get pushed around a little. Also helps from getting blown over.
I spose the reason people strive to make their trailers pull like nothing is there, is because they arenโ€™t comfortable with this.
But itโ€™s so much easier, if you arenโ€™t driving in extremely tight quarters to chill out a little and donโ€™t try to over correct getting pushed around a little.
Of course you have to trust your driving skills. And if not, keep fighting every little breeze.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5โ€ turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
Haven't been here ever since the border closure, but thought I would see what's up lately and saw this thread. Been meaning to post my thoughts on this subject for quite a while.

Ignoring what would happen if the wind is strong enough to tip the trailer over, here's a sketch showing what happens when there is a sudden sideways/lateral gust of wind. It's basic physics. For simplicity, assume the TT "box" is 30' long and that the centerline of the axles is 2/3 back from the front of the TT. When you get struck by a sudden strong gust of wind, the force against 1/3 of the TT sidewall behind the axles and the force against 1/3 of the TT sidewall ahead of the axles cancel each other out. What's left is the wind pushing against the most forward 1/3 (10') of the TT sidewall. Doesn't matter what speed you are travelling, the lateral force will be the same.

The sudden "punch" of wind then pushes the tongue laterally (sideways) against the hitch on the tow vehicle. That in turn wants to point the TV in a different direction. Result is, the driver then makes a steering correction to try going in a straight line down the road. Then the sudden gust of lateral wind stops (or reverses direction) and then the driver again makes a steering correction to maintain a straight line.

So if you are trying to drive on a stretch of road that is experiencing high lateral gusting wind, you are going to find it very difficult to maintain a straight line and could be dangerous. Slowing down substantially would be the first course of action.

To minimize the effect of gusting wind, you'd want to make the trailer and TV as least susceptible to lateral movement as possible by doing:

1 - have TT tires with higher load rating and inflate to max. side wall psi.
2 - install shocks on TT.
3 - use WDH with pro-active self-centering action like Reese DC and ensure it is properly adjusted.
4 - ensure TT is level to nose down and ensure WDH is properly adjusted to transfer sufficient weight back onto steer axle.
5 - have as much tongue weight as possible (up to 15% if TV can handle it.)
6 - install heavy duty shocks on TV.
7 - Use LT tires on TV with stiffer sidewalls (kevlar).
8 - inflate LT tires to max. psi on rear and say 70 psi on front.
9 - a 4x2 TV instead of 4x4 for lower center of gravity would help but just about all trucks now are 4x4.

I experienced high gusting side winds once on a trip on I-90 from Spokane to Seattle. Pretty dicey and it felt like driving on marbles, even at slow speed. Pulled over a rest stop and a truck driver said semis get blown over sometimes. Got to the destination CG and someone said even FWs have been known to get blown over there.

So we've done all of the above except we have the usual 4x4 truck. Have GY Endurance pumped up to 80 psi. Driving in strong side winds is WAY more stable now. At freeway speeds, tractor trailer units can pass all day long with no effect. It's as if I'm on rails now. If you get caught in severe winds, pull over somewhere and hope you don't get blown over. I don't know how well other WDHs like SwayPro and Equal-i-zer 4 point compare to a Reese DC but I would never give up ours for anything else. A longer wheelbase truck would help too like crew cab + long box.

Just my thoughts... I hope the border re-opens some day so we can back to regular camping in the US.

Hannibal
Explorer
Explorer
I would recommend a better WD hitch with built in friction sway control like a Reese twin cam or Equalizer 4 point. Even Blue Ox seems to have their own answer to their problem with their version of the Equalizer. I have a Reese HP with no sway control and an Equalizer 4 point that works very well. I prefer a simple Curt ballmount with no WD or sway control. It does wallow around a bit with crosswinds and occasionally with passing trucks. Shorter box trucks are worse than big rigs in my experience.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-116001.html
2020 F250 STX CC SB 7.3L 10spd 3.55 4x4
2010 F250 XLT CC SB 5.4L 5spdTS 3.73
ex '95 Cummins,'98 12v Cummins,'01.5 Cummins,'03 Cummins; '05 Hemi
2017 Jayco 28RLS TT 32.5'

BenK
Explorer
Explorer
Depends on how many square inches are removed from the total sail area

Analogy is punching holes in Marty's sail to reduce the amount of heeling... :B

Plus the vacuuming up of all that dust and debris... ๐Ÿ™‚


Grit dog wrote:
1320Fastback wrote:
I heard a rumor opening a window on each side of the trailer even just a little bit helps reduce the sway from cross winds or big rigs bow wave.


This is an interesting theory that kinda makes sense. I'm going to try to remember to try it.
-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
valhalla360 wrote:
Mike134 wrote:
valhalla360 wrote:
JRscooby wrote:
Your trip to the Cat. Make 1 pass, hooked up like you tow, another with just TV. I have never understood what useful info is gained with loose bars, but the change in weight of TV, and where that weight rides is important info.
BTW, if you tell them it is re-weigh for the 2nd (or more) passes only charge a fraction.


For an extra $2-3 get all the info.

It's technically possible to back calculate with just the 2 measures but beyond most people's understanding of how to calculate.


I don't see how that's possible because you'd have to guess at a variable. For example calculating tongue weight would be impossible from one pass with just the truck and the second pass with weight bars connected which will put weight on the front axle and ADD weight to the trailer axle. You'd have to guess what the tongue weight is.


You can do it but you have to include the axle spacing and isolate for the unknown variables taking into account the moments created in the WDH. I'm not even going to try and explain the process...it's a whole lot simpler to just disconnect the bars and take another measurement.


What is so important about knowing what what the TW would be while the trailer is not hooked to the TV? And if you think that number is important, pulling the trailer across the scales with bars loose will not give it to you because the front of trailer will be low. The TW that will change the handling is the weight the TV is carrying down the road. Getting that, and GW of the trailer so you can figure the percentage is simple if you don't add all the extra number from the loose bar pass.
Now if you where planning to replace the TV, that pass might be worthwhile if you where smart enough to figure out what the change in wheelbase and overhang will do.

valhalla360
Nomad III
Nomad III
Mike134 wrote:
valhalla360 wrote:
JRscooby wrote:
Your trip to the Cat. Make 1 pass, hooked up like you tow, another with just TV. I have never understood what useful info is gained with loose bars, but the change in weight of TV, and where that weight rides is important info.
BTW, if you tell them it is re-weigh for the 2nd (or more) passes only charge a fraction.


For an extra $2-3 get all the info.

It's technically possible to back calculate with just the 2 measures but beyond most people's understanding of how to calculate.


I don't see how that's possible because you'd have to guess at a variable. For example calculating tongue weight would be impossible from one pass with just the truck and the second pass with weight bars connected which will put weight on the front axle and ADD weight to the trailer axle. You'd have to guess what the tongue weight is.


You can do it but you have to include the axle spacing and isolate for the unknown variables taking into account the moments created in the WDH. I'm not even going to try and explain the process...it's a whole lot simpler to just disconnect the bars and take another measurement.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV

joshuajim
Explorer II
Explorer II
Years ago I had a Ram 1500 pulling a 24โ€™ relatively light trailer. I put bags on because the rear squatted too much. I fond out that if I inflated to more than 15 to 20 psi that it made the rear suspension too stiff. The rear suspension became a fulcrum and every time the trailer hit a bump the rear suspension did not deflect and resulted in the front end becoming light.

Just saying.
RVing since 1995.

wowens79
Explorer III
Explorer III
You mentioned having the Blue Ox, and Friction Sway bars?? The Blue Ox Sway Pro has sway control built into it, and uses the tongue weight to control the sway. The friction bars may be interfering with the Blue Ox. I pull a 33ft TT with the Blue Ox and have no sway.

Great choice on tires. The Revos are probably my favorite tire I've ever had, but they are $$$.

Good Luck.
2022 Ford F-350 7.3l
2002 Chevy Silverado 1500HD 6.0l 268k miles (retired)
2016 Heritage Glen 29BH
2003 Flagstaff 228D Pop Up