cancel
Showing results for 
Search instead for 
Did you mean: 

Ideas on Not Losing the 2-1/2" Hitch Adapter

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
I'm using my old Equal-i-zer hitch from my old Tundra which had a 2" receiver. Of course my 2016 Ram in my sig has the 2-1/2" receiver. I'm using the slide in adapter supplied with the truck. I've discovered it's very easy to slide out the Equal-i-zer shank and ball and forget about the adapter, meaning the adapter falls out somewhere on the road and you can't hitch up.

Has anyone come up with a trick to keep the adapter either with the shank or keep it in the receiver? I've thought of various things like tack welding, installing a set screw, etc, but was looking for some idea that I have not thought of.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"
28 REPLIES 28

CharlesinGA
Explorer
Explorer
Ron3rd wrote:
DutchmenSport wrote:
I keep mine in the sleeve all the time. I keep a locking hitch pin through it all the time. The reducer sleeve never comes out of the 2 1/2 inch shaft. Never.


Thought of that, but was afraid of theft. Could use a locking pin, but then must not lose the key! 🙂


https://www.boltlock.com/locks/5-8-inch-receiver-lock/5-8-inch-receiver-lock-chrysler

Charles
'03 Ram 2500 CTD, 5.9HO six speed, PacBrake Exh Brake, std cab, long bed, Leer top and 2008 Bigfoot 25B21RB.. previously (both gone) 2008 Thor/Dutchman Freedom Spirit 180 & 2007 Winnebago View 23H Motorhome.

rwess
Explorer
Explorer
I changed my Equal-i-zer hitch to a 2 1/2 shaft to help get rid of the wobbles and it still wobbles!
rwess
USN Ret.
2017 Open Range 216RBS
2010 Chevy 2500HD Z71 4x4 LT

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Walaby wrote:
Welded mine.


So you permanently attached a weaker part to your truck? Sweet!
If you sell it, the new owner will surely think that's awesome too.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Walaby
Explorer II
Explorer II
Welded mine.
Im Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
2017 Ram 3500 CTD (aka FRAM)
2019 GrandDesign Reflection 367BHS

APT
Explorer
Explorer
I would spend the $ on the correctly sized ball mount/shank. I have heard of a few other problems that are more important to me than losing the adapter.

Otherwise, I would tack weld the adapter to your current ball mount, not the truck's receiver. You may not have plans today to need/prefer a 2.5" ball mount, but there are far too many things you cannot control that I would not limit your future with that choice today.
A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009
2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS
2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R
2x 2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV (Gray and Black Twins)

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Or I almost forgot the easiest way to not loose it....take it out when not using the trailer hitch?
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
Ron3rd wrote:
Thanks for the ideas. Trying to avoid dropping big bucks on the 2-1/2" shank if possible. The locking pin might be an idea.


If losing the adapter is an actual concern....
1. buy a spare
2. What other non issues are you "worried" about?
3. Buy the correct hitch shank for your receiver. *(For this one, you'll thank me when it is bigger bucks, or at least more of a pain the @ss to cut the rusted adapter out of the receiver or remove that bent pin from using a band-aid adapter and then have the holes wallered out on your receiver as a side gift for using the adapter.)

* Note: If you totally baby your truck/hitch and never tow heavy or accelerate hard, brake hard, hit large bumps or potholes or do anything else to stress the hitch pin connection then #3 may not be an issue for you. But it's easy to bend a pin with the adapter in use.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

1995brave
Nomad
Nomad
Mine is a one key by Bolt Lock and uses the ignition/door key from my truck to lock and unlock. No need for extra keys to lose.

Grit_dog
Navigator
Navigator
1995brave wrote:
You can get a locking hitch pin that will program to your truck key. Got mine on Amazon.


Lol, junk, unless maybe you don't take your truck out of the sun belt down there.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
B.O. Plenty wrote:
Since I have no plans for anything bigger than a 2" shank I think a tack weld is in order.

B.O.


Considered that too.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

B_O__Plenty
Explorer II
Explorer II
Since I have no plans for anything bigger than a 2" shank I think a tack weld is in order.

B.O.
Former Ram/Cummins owner
2015 Silverado 3500 D/A DRW
Yup I'm a fanboy!
2016 Cedar Creek 36CKTS

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
DutchmenSport wrote:
Ron3rd wrote:
... Could use a locking pin, but then must not lose the key! 🙂


I keep my key on the same ring as the truck ignition key. We have 2 sets of skeys, each is a complete set for the entire truck. She has one set, I have one set. We've never lost the hitch pin key this way:

1 ignition key that also works the tail gate lock and glove box lock, and box between the seats.
1 key for the doors for the truck bed cap. There are 3 locks.
1 key for the hitch pin lock
1 key for the bicycle carrier arm lock that locks the bicycles to the carrier. The carrier slides into the receiver. Hitch pin locks that in place.



Attached to this set of keys is the set of keys for the second vehicle at home and the house key. We figure, we can only be driving one vehicle at a time, so both sets are kept together. And if we are gone, we'll be in one of the vehicles, so the house key stays with this set also.

We keep a separate ring for the trailer keys (we have multiple locks there too). As we don't always have the trailer with us, we leave those keys on a completely separate ring and grab them (2 sets) only when we need them (or traveling).

So, long story short, we've never lost the hitch pin lock key this way.


Good info Dutch.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
Larry-D wrote:
Leave the adapter in the shank all the time with a locking hitch pin.


Things tend to grow legs and walk away around here.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

Ralph_Cramden
Explorer II
Explorer II
elcheapo wrote:
Just mix up a little salt and water, coat the adapter and it will rust in place.


The Commonwealth of PA does that for us here, one of the perks of paying taxes. It usually only takes one winter to gauld that adapter in there harder than a wedding ____!
Too many geezers, self appointed moderators, experts, and disappearing posts for me. Enjoy. How many times can the same thing be rehashed over and over?