Jun-19-2014 07:40 AM
Jun-21-2014 08:46 PM
Jun-21-2014 08:44 PM
Do i Just attach to pos/neg lead behind service panel to get reading?The jaw opens and closes around a wire. You do not remove any wires etc.
Jun-21-2014 08:19 PM
Jun-21-2014 07:20 PM
CA Traveler wrote:I will disconnect monoxide alarms, radio, tv antenna booster and turn on fridge and check draw. If more than 2A then something is definately screwy.I'd start with measuring the refer since it's been replaced.
A $50 DC clampon ammeter would be a good investment for this and the future. It then becomes trival to measure amps.
Jun-21-2014 09:04 AM
I will disconnect monoxide alarms, radio, tv antenna booster and turn on fridge and check draw. If more than 2A then something is definately screwy.I'd start with measuring the refer since it's been replaced.
Jun-21-2014 08:50 AM
Jun-21-2014 07:45 AM
solismaris wrote:ewarnerusa wrote:
What would be varying the load in a 12V control panel where an average would be much less than a max? One of the threads I linked mentioned that an actual Trimetric reading showed higher draw when the fridge was cooling and they theorized it was the due to the solenoid opening the gas supply. But if I recall it was only a 0.2 A increase.
Here's one guess: There is a solenoid with a spring keeping the gas closed off when there is no power, and to turn on the gas continuous power is needed to hold open the solenoid. (Just a guess.)
Jun-21-2014 07:12 AM
ewarnerusa wrote:
What would be varying the load in a 12V control panel where an average would be much less than a max? One of the threads I linked mentioned that an actual Trimetric reading showed higher draw when the fridge was cooling and they theorized it was the due to the solenoid opening the gas supply. But if I recall it was only a 0.2 A increase.
Jun-21-2014 05:35 AM
Jun-20-2014 08:09 PM
Jun-20-2014 07:47 PM
ewarnerusa wrote:solismaris wrote:
...You should be able to go literally weeks with the fridge set to gas. The power consumption of the electronics is very low.
....
This is something I'm curious about. Intuitively I would agree with this statement. But readings these forums there are some claims that the 12V control panel on a modern RV absorption fridge (while on propane) is on all the time drawing 12V power. I've read in the neighborhood of 1 amp continuous load. This sounds like very little, but that is 1 amp for 24 hrs/day. That means 24 Ah/day just to run the fridge on propane. If you've got a single group 24 battery with a typical ~80 Ah rating (40 Ah available to stay above 50%), then in only two days you would use all of your recommended available battery just with the fridge alone.
Now I don't know if these claims are true and I don't really ever get a chance to test it because I have solar installed and no amp meter on my batteries, but it is kind of eye opening. The following links are what I found in a quick search on Google. Seems like claims of 0.1 A to 2 A to run the 12V electronics on the fridge when running on propane.
http://www.rvnetwork.com/index.php?showtopic=103161
http://rvservices.koa.com/rvinformation/rvmaintenance/rv-converters-and-amp-draw.asp
http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=3853
The only actual datasheet I found while surfing was for a Norcold and it said 1.2A on 12V DC power.
Jun-20-2014 07:32 PM
wa8yxm wrote:
Well, those of us who subscribe to the theory of KISS (Keep it super simple is the polite translation).
Have you tested the batteries to insure they are not on their last gasp?
Jun-20-2014 11:45 AM
Jun-20-2014 11:34 AM
solismaris wrote:
I expect 1.2A is the maximum, not the average. I've gone 2 weeks without problem before (accidentally; I thought I was plugged in but the breaker had tripped). Maybe some fridges are different.