With that weight, a DC system would be noticeably better for sway vs. friction bars. Your other concern is a loaded question. How much twisting at the pivot point (hitch/ball) is expected? There is only so much give in the rigidity of bars, the hitch/ball connection or the entire WD system as it twist's.
Seems if it is too off-road, you would go slow and wouldn't be getting into the sway issue. I would just remove the bars at the start of the rough stuff.
When you install the system initially, the more level and straight, the better. Most people (me for one) don't understand the concept of the DC sway idea until it's installed. The instructions just say do these steps at these measurments. Well that's correct, but not practical. Where you initially mount (drill the holes) the actual DC's on the tongue is your call and is dictated by the level and straightness.
Once installed and setup, removing the bars or detaching the TT is no different than any WD system. Jack the tongue to get weight off the bars, remove the bars and retract the jack. If that spot is too unlevel it could be a challenge with any WD system.
Our TT days was a 31' Jayco (9500# gross), 1160# tongue wt. behind a 05 3500 Duramax...loved the DC vs. any of my previous WD systems.
Look into Reese Strait Line. I searched for DC installed images and found several where the bars to cams were incorrectly adjusted, so watch out.
Greg
N5LFH
2007 Chariot