cancel
Showing results forย 
Search instead forย 
Did you mean:ย 

Small cordless drill/screwdriver rec for stabilizers?

brianosaur
Explorer
Explorer
Looking for a very small inexpensive cordless tool to quickly drop scissor jack/stabilizers with a drill socket. It would only be used for this purpose.

I own a 20v DeWalt cordless drill that I dont necessarily want to remember to take with me every time we leave. Plus it's a *bit* heavy.


I like the idea of small pistol grip tool with no hanging battery, but not sure it would be efficient enough.

Does anyone use a cordless screwdriver for this?

Something like this:
with this

40 REPLIES 40

brianosaur
Explorer
Explorer
So that's a fat "NO" on the Mr. Cheapskates Special $27.99 7.2v screwgun?

Didn't want to spend another $100-$200 on something I already own.

I do have a 4way lug wrench in the TV already so I don't mind pinching them down the last little bit with that.
As long as it gets me up/down 99% of the way without a thousand hand cranks I'm good.

Who knows, maybe I'll give it a shot just to see if the jack move quickly enough (or at all). Then return it if it doesn't work out.

...is that taboo?

GordonThree
Explorer
Explorer
Lubricant makes things worse, it causes road debris to stick in the threads.

Ptfe (dry) lubricant has proven ineffective.

I'm subjected to noisy diesels, get them to quiet down and I'll do the same.
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed

RollandB
Explorer
Explorer
I have an older 14v DeWalt that found its way to the RV after I upgraded to their lithium units a number of years ago. It stays in the RV all the time and now doesnโ€™t get used much since the new rig has auto leveling
2013 Yukon

2021 Coachmen Spirit 1943RB

coolmom42
Explorer II
Explorer II
GordonThree wrote:
Here in the rust belt, my stabs need an impact wrench to go up or down.

Sorry about the noise. Just think of it as a deleted diesel cranking over a few times.


You might try some lubricant on those jacks, instead of subjected everyone else to your noise.
Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board

coolmom42
Explorer II
Explorer II
midnightsadie wrote:
X2 use a impact drill not a reg drill bit drill.


PLEASE DO NOT use an impact drill. They are incredibly loud and annoying and disturb the entire campground. They are complete overkill for a stabilizer jack.
Single empty-nester in Middle TN, sometimes with a friend or grandchild on board

GordonThree
Explorer
Explorer
Here in the rust belt, my stabs need an impact wrench to go up or down.

Sorry about the noise. Just think of it as a deleted diesel cranking over a few times.
2013 KZ Sportsmen Classic 200, 20 ft TT
2020 RAM 1500, 5.7 4x4, 8 speed

Terryallan
Explorer II
Explorer II
PawPaw_n_Gram wrote:
Those type drills are going to work fine to raise and lower the stabilizers.

However, I would caution you that most drills are not designed to do crank down the final half inch. Many of todayโ€™s drills have a clutch designed to avoid stalling the drill. You will need something in the Dewalt/ Makita 20v plus range if you want to avoid having that clutch break/ burn out.

Some people use an impact drill for that job to avoid damaging a standard drill. It will work great but will not make any friends in the campground if you arrive late and/ or leave early.

I have added stabilizers right behind my rear wheels to get some weight off the suspension. I use my Craftsman 19.2v drill to lower the stabilizers until it touches the ground then I use my automobile 4-way lug wrench for the final tightening. To leave, I use the four way to break the tension on the stabilizer, then the Craftsman to bring them up to the travel position.

Most of the hand cranks that come with stabilizers are cr***, a standard 4 way has a 3/4 inch socket which fits the stabilizer and is so much easier to use.


I agree. I hate to hear those impact wrenches in the morning. After all, I am not camping on Pit Road.

I use my 24volt DeWalt Hammer drill, with the hammer turned off. and yes. that last half inch is no problem. In fact. I have to be careful not to lower them too far.

will it last? Well it is 18 years old. So I'm gonna say... YEP.
Terry & Shay
Coachman Apex 288BH.
2013 F150 XLT Off Road
5.0, 3.73
Lazy Campers

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
X2 use a impact drill not a reg drill bit drill.

PawPaw_n_Gram
Explorer
Explorer
Those type drills are going to work fine to raise and lower the stabilizers.

However, I would caution you that most drills are not designed to do crank down the final half inch. Many of todayโ€™s drills have a clutch designed to avoid stalling the drill. You will need something in the Dewalt/ Makita 20v plus range if you want to avoid having that clutch break/ burn out.

Some people use an impact drill for that job to avoid damaging a standard drill. It will work great but will not make any friends in the campground if you arrive late and/ or leave early.

I have added stabilizers right behind my rear wheels to get some weight off the suspension. I use my Craftsman 19.2v drill to lower the stabilizers until it touches the ground then I use my automobile 4-way lug wrench for the final tightening. To leave, I use the four way to break the tension on the stabilizer, then the Craftsman to bring them up to the travel position.

Most of the hand cranks that come with stabilizers are cr***, a standard 4 way has a 3/4 inch socket which fits the stabilizer and is so much easier to use.
Full-Time 2014 - ????

โ€œNot all who wander are lost.โ€
"You were supposed to turn back at the last street."

2012 Ram 2500 Mega Cab
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS TT

Bobbo
Explorer II
Explorer II
I use a Ryobi 18v One+ 1/2" impact driver. I don't have to remember to take it because it lives in the TT. Note that this is NOT a hammer drill. Impact and hammer are completely different.

Bobbo and Lin
2017 F-150 XLT 4x4 SuperCab w/Max Tow Package 3.5l EcoBoost V6
2017 Airstream Flying Cloud 23FB

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
I use a small Ridgid 12 volt lithium ion drill that's rated at just 120 in/lbs of torque but it runs my stabs up/down just fine. Any of the current crop of similar drills would do the same.

2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380