WD hitch on a F150

[riven1950]

F150 2013 CC Ecoboost

I have been towing my 4200lb ( loaded ) 18' TT with a single friction bar, no problems.

Getting ready to buy a new TT. Will be between 4200-4500 lbs dry plus about 1000lbs of stuff, so 5200 to 6000lbs loaded.

Questions:

1- Do I need a wd hitch? Never used one, don't want to scrimp on safety.

2-Anyone tow with this TV that can give me a recommendation on WD hitches that work well with the F150? Or can anyone else suggest a good / great hitch that will not break the bank that would work well?

Thanks

[dodge_guy]

Go with an 8000/800 lb rated Reese Straight Line (Dual Cam). it will be money well spent!

[mkirsch]

Seriously. Yes the ratings in the manuals might be on the low side as a CYA measure on the part of the manufacturer, but what else do you have to go by?

NOTHING. That's what else you have to go by.

So who is willing to risk life and limb by pushing past the manufacturer ratings further and further until they experience a failure? The only way you're going to find that "real" limit is by going past it, in other words, making something bad happen.

Even the guys who knowingly and willingly overload their vehicles still draw the line at a manufacturer's rating. Usually, the tires. Why? Because as long as the tires stay round on the bottom you've got a shot at getting the truck off the road without killing anyone when something bad happens.

That said, one test to failure does not determine the "real" limit. The next one might fail at 1/2 the manufacturer's rating due to an unseen defect. The one after that might exceed the original test by orders of magnitude. Testing of dozens and an average value is necessary. Not exactly something the average guy can afford to take on.

[myredracer]

joshuajim wrote:
I've read the manual on my truck completely, but you must remember that the manual is created by engineers and then edited by the lawyers to make sure that there is minimum liability for the manufacturer.

Why do people say that?? Is there credible documented evidence from engineers, lawyers or other experts somewhere that prove that? Not the first time I've seen this. Comments like these really don't help the OP or others new to towing a TT.

Some of us like to be be conservative and safe and stay within ratings, and being an engineer, I stay within engineer's or manufacturer's specifications and ratings no matter what it is. Ratings are there for a reason - to protect you and the public at large.

[BillB800si]

Have used the Equalizer brand for years. Keep an extra set of L-Pins. They are known to wear out over time. In fact we had a trucker hail us that our Spring Arm Bar was sticking straight out from the hitch (due to the bar slipping over the bent L-Pin).
Be sure you get the proper Shank Size and hitch size for you trailer hook up.
Happy trails,

[mkirsch]

In all likelihood, your F150's receiver is rated for 500/5000 in weight-carrying mode, and 1000/10000 with a WD hitch. Check the sticker on the receiver, or the owner's manual if it is OEM.

If such is the case, a WD hitch is absolutely required for the heavier trailer. The old standbys of Reese Dual Cam and Equal-I-Zer are virtual can't-go-wrong choices. You can go for the full Hensley or Propride treatment too, though the effect will probably be lost on that size trailer.

[joshuajim]

I've read the manual on my truck completely, but you must remember that the manual is created by engineers and then edited by the lawyers to make sure that there is minimum liability for the manufacturer. The lawyers don't really care what the cost is to the consumer.

Real life experience from forum menbers, taken with a grain of salt and substantial skepticism,, can be very valuable.

[riven1950]

Your truck's owners manual will have WDH requirements in its towing manual.
it still amazes me that so many owners don't check their owners manual first, before asking strangers.

I think it is called a forum, for real life experience. Sorry to bother you. Thanks for the advice. I will check the manual also.

[owenssailor]

We use an Equalizer hitch on Chev 1500 with trailer weighing 6600 loaded. It works very well. No push from tractor trailers. It is important to get the setup correct by careful measurement and best doing a full weight series at a CAT scale. It seems to be important to have the bars parallel to the tongue - at least that is what I found. Don't underestimate your tongue weight. The brochure weight will be way low. Best would be to weigh. Next would be to use 15% of trailer GVWR.

[bikendan]

Your truck's owners manual will have WDH requirements in its towing manual.
it still amazes me that so many owners don't check their owners manual first, before asking strangers. :h

[Tystevens]

I haven't used any other brands or styles, but our Equalizer has worked great for us. Behind the F150 and everything else we've used.

Good luck!

[riven1950]

Thanks so much for the info. New territory for me and I want to get it right. Equal-i-zer looks like a good choice. Hopefully the dealer can size it properly and install it when I get to that point.

[fx2tom]

I used an F150 CC EB to tow a 8,300 lb trailer and used the Equal-i-zer with no problems. Moved up to a Ram 2500 , adjusted the Equal-i-zer and am even happier with the hitch.

[handye9]

As stated above, without WDH, you will exceed load carrying rating on the stock hitch. Look at the numbers stamped (or on a label) on the hitch receiver. It will show one number for load carrying (without WDH), and a higher number with WDH.

Pretty much, any WDH will do the job, one with add-on friction sway control will do it better, and one with built in sway control, will do it better, easier, and possibly, much cleaner.

Here are some with built in sway control

Andersen
BlueOx Swaypro
Equalizer
Hensley
Propride
Reese DC Strait Line

[lanerd]

riven1950 wrote:


Questions:

1- don't want to scrimp on safety.

2- Or can anyone else suggest a good / great hitch that will not break the bank that would work well?

Thanks

If Safety is your first concern, then of course your best bet would be to get a Hensley Arrow or Pro Pride.

If not "breaking the bank" is you second concern, then I suggest that you search the interweb for a "used" Hensley Arrow or Pro Pride.

As you said, you don't want to scrimp on safety.

Ron