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Winter INSULATOR/COVER for the Ceiling A/C Vent?

Fosters
Explorer
Explorer
I have all three (3) Fan Vents taken care of for the Winter with the Camco Vent Insulators. They are wonderful and insert in a Snap! Not a single tool needed!!! If memory serves me correctly they are 14" X 14" X 3" thick and fit snug into the vent opening to prevent Heat Loss thru the ceiling (and keep hot sun rays out during the summer).

But what about the ceiling A/C vent? Not all the "round" vents in the ceiling that blow out the a/c. Just the ONE (1) square vent on the ceiling that is connected to the actual a/c unit on the roof. That is totally different of course then the Fan Vents. The Vent "plate" ( I will call it for lack of proper term ) on the ceiling is plastic and the magnetic material that one typically uses to cover a "metal" furnace register will not of course work. I've been checking online and cannot find any product designed for this application.

Is there a product out there? Or does the ceiling A/C Vent even need to be covered? I can close the out-take (where the a/c blow out) by simply sliding the lever. But what about the larger vent (rectangle shape that I will call the intake) with the removable filter behind? The forced hot air from the furnace can travel thru that vent so does or is the heat lost thru the ceiling? Or is there no where for the heat to go and it (heat) does not exit thru the roof, thus a heat loss?

Thank you in Advance to all and Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!!!:)
"Life is short my friends, and if you don't stop to take a look at it every once in awhile, your gonna miss it!" --- Ferris Bueller ---
10 REPLIES 10

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
ken56 wrote:
I have seen where some people have put the clear bubble wrap over windows that they don't need to or care to see out of to help insulate them. I have never tried it so no experience with it.


What's the point in using clear bubble wrap which isn't anywhere nearly as effective as Reflectix at reflecting radiant energy? If you don't have the need to see out the window then there's no reason to not use Reflectix which refects back 97% of radiant energy that strikes it, exactly what the OP wants to do - retain heat inside the camper. Tent trailer and hybrid owners have been using this technique for years to keep their campers warmer in cold weather and cooler in hot weather for one simple reason - Reflectix is truly effective for this purpose. :B
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

ken56
Explorer
Explorer
I have seen where some people have put the clear bubble wrap over windows that they don't need to or care to see out of to help insulate them. I have never tried it so no experience with it.

Strabo
Explorer
Explorer
Jim-Linda wrote:
There is no direct access to the outside from the A/C vent you are referring to. No need to insulate.

Jim


Correct. I don't worry about it. I've lived over 3 years in our hauler, the windows are the main cold source.
04' F350 PSD TB SC FX4 XLT, TH-04' 32' Sandpiper Sport Fifthwheel WB Dual Axle
07' Rhino 686 SS106-ITP-AFE-BRP-T4-CDI-KIBBLEBWHITE-CVT-TSTICH-Ridgid LED LightBar-HID Conversion Kit-LIVEWIRE
04' Honda 250 Sportstrac quad
05' Honda 400 Ranchers quad

Z-Peller
Explorer
Explorer
Plugging every vent is going to turn the interior of your rig into a greenhouse. It will be dripping wet from condensation. Mold will grow.....if you are going to shower, cook, and heat in cold temps without venting it will not be pretty.
Bill..
2017 Bigfoot 10.4 camper...2016 GMC 3500 4x4 Xcab Duramax Dually...

Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Explorer III
RV Roof top A/C Units recirculate the inside air. The return air goes thru evap coil then back into RV via ducts/registers.
Evap coil is inside an insulated/seal cover so outside air does NOT get in.
Outside air is used ONLY to cool condenser coil which is under roof shroud and exposed to outside air.





Heat loss is thru roof vents/fans and windows.
The Vent Insulators you are using takes care of the roof vents

Reflectix Insulation material between window shades and windows will help minimize heat loss thru windows (can buy rolls at most hardware stores)

When we FTd we removed the day/night shade on large rear window and replaced it with 4 black out insulated curtain panels.
Pull panels open during day for sunlight and heat then close at night. Made big difference in heat loss.
Also used Reflectix on windows that the shades didn't need to be opened....one by computer desk and 2 in bedroom slideout.

We stayed roasty-toasty in -19*F temps (2 weeks) and in several stints in less drastic temps (20s)
Propane WAS a hot commodity :B
Is it time for your medication or mine?


2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
Fosters wrote:
I'm full timing it, so I need to keep every single piece of hot air inside my coach as long as possible.........so I'm trying to insulate everything I can LOL.


If you expect to 4 season in a 3 season recreational vehicle then you're going to have to do a lot more than just stick a few pillows in the vents. Adding electrical heating pads to the holding tanks (if you've not already done so) and skirting the open half of the rig would be a first step for sure, along with adding some sort of heating within that skirted area. Reflectix in the windows will also help enormously to cut down on heat loss but of course will block your view to the outside world. Some I know who seasonal winter camp build structures to cover the entire top of the rig so snow & ice can't get to the roof and for some protection from the wind. That, and LOTS of heat generation inside the camper, be it propane furnace, electric heating, or both.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380

MFL
Nomad II
Nomad II
Jim-Linda wrote:
There is no direct access to the outside from the A/C vent you are referring to. No need to insulate.

Jim


I agree with Jim, but it would not hurt to put an insulate, such as reflectix in place of the filter. A small amount of heat could escape that area just by transfer, but not nearly as much as the vent caps, that you have already taken care of.

Jerry

Fosters
Explorer
Explorer
I'm full timing it, so I need to keep every single piece of hot air inside my coach as long as possible.........so I'm trying to insulate everything I can LOL.

I'm sitting in living are of my coach right now and count six (6) a/c "round" vents alone in the living area and kitchen. And no way to close them, i.e. no lever. So yeah, I guess they are designed that way for not necessary to close or cover. And same for the larger square vent I initially spoke of. And sure, one could cover using velcro and covering material, but all that would be unsightly. More importantly I guess, serving no purpose at all? For no Heat Loss thru any A/C vent, is that the bottom line?
"Life is short my friends, and if you don't stop to take a look at it every once in awhile, your gonna miss it!" --- Ferris Bueller ---

Jim-Linda
Explorer II
Explorer II
There is no direct access to the outside from the A/C vent you are referring to. No need to insulate.

Jim

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
Unless you're actually using the trailer why bother trying to prevent "heat loss"? :h If you are using it then I suppose you could secure of piece of Reflectix over the A/C ceiling plate using strips of Velcro but of course it would have to be removed for A/C use during the summer.
2012 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab
2014 Coachmen Freedom Express 192RBS
2003 Fleetwood Yuma * 2008 K-Z Spree 240BH-LX
2007 TrailCruiser C21RBH * 2000 Fleetwood Santa Fe
1998 Jayco 10UD * 1969 Coleman CT380