Dometic Fridge not cooling

[Guitarboss]

I have a Dometic RM2652 that has recently stopped cooling on electric or gas. When switching the unit from 120v to gas, the igniter works but no gas to light. I can tap on the top of the black solenoid that sits on to of the brass gas valve - at this point gas passes thru and the pilot will light but after about 5 seconds there is a click and the gas stops. I tried another solenoid but still had the same problem. I can light the stove in the kitchen and it lights and runs fine, telling me there is sufficient propane.
Any input and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Steve

[lynndiwagon]

I would think that after 24 hours on gas it should certainly be cool. Time to look into this problem some more, but it doesn't sound good for the cooling unit.

[Guitarboss]

Just getting back around to working on our fridge. After reading the last post I checked the heating element and found that it reads open. As I understand, this should read between 40-45 ohms.
When the refer is switched to gas, the unit lights and the stack gets hot...but unit still does not cool, even after running on gas for 24 hours. In this case, is the cooling unit the problem?
Thanks Again for all of the help!
Steve

[jetcare]

Low propane pressure will cause poor cooling on LP. Having the tip burned off the swirl tube/flue baffle will also cause poor cooling on LP. As the other professional repairmen said, the only sure way to test a cooling unit is to take a 120VAC cord and wire it directly to the two wires going to the electric heating element. You are bypassing the entire control system. This test is done after you have placed your OHM meter on the two wires going to the electric heating element to verify you have 40-49 ohms. Run the test for 24 hours. Keep a close eye of the unit during the test, you have bypassed all the safety features.

[Guitarboss]

Just so i understand...if propane burner lights and stays on but fridge doesn't cool...is the cooling unit bad? Since igniter and burner seem to be working correctly is there anything else it could be? Ran unit on propane for approx 15 hrs but still wasn't cool.
Sorry for all the questions...just wanting to make sure I'm not missing something before I go buy a new unit.
Thanks Again!

[jodeb720]

In my old Dometic 2652, we had it connected via 120, left for a trip and when we got to the destination it was running on gas.

over the trip it go warmer and warmer and by the time we came home, it was in the high 40's to low 50's. Dangerous.

When I got home, I posted here and someone suggested I check the flue baffle. When I pulled it out the bottom edge was rusted away from the heat and the moisture in the air at night. I cleaned out the burner tube and replaced the baffle and it worked like a champ until the day I sold it, 4 years later.

If you're relatively sure you don't have a leak in the system, check the baffle, clean the tube thoroughly and try it again. I couldn't believe it was something that simple.

[Gjac]

Guitarboss wrote:

Gjac wrote:
Before you replace any more parts I would check the cooling unit first to see if it is good by discontenting the 120v heater from the board and connecting it directly to a 120v source and let it run overnight. If the refer cools down your unit is good and the problem is elsewhere. Let us know the results. Did you read the troubleshooting section that Old Biscuit posted?

Gjac, I double checked that there is 120v coming from the board to the heating element. Also, when disconnecting power to the board the burner lights immediately and will continue to burn. Would there be an advantage to connecting the heater directly to 120v?
Replacing the control board did correct the problem with the unit not lighting...but unfortunately its not cooling. We do have quite an issue with dirt dobbers and I'm wondering if there could be a blockage to the cooling unit.
I appreciate any input!
Thanks!

What I am talking about is disconnecting the two leads on the 120v heater element from the board with the refer off(no power) plug those into a 120v extension cord. You will have to make some male connectors to plug into the female spade connectors on the heating element. By doing this you by pass all the electrical stuff that controls the heating element. If your refer gets down into the 30's overnight the cooling unit is good and the problem will be something less costly to fix.

[Chris_Bryant]

Test the heating element resistance- it should read 44 ohms, +- 10%

[Guitarboss]

Gjac wrote:
Before you replace any more parts I would check the cooling unit first to see if it is good by discontenting the 120v heater from the board and connecting it directly to a 120v source and let it run overnight. If the refer cools down your unit is good and the problem is elsewhere. Let us know the results. Did you read the troubleshooting section that Old Biscuit posted?

Gjac, I double checked that there is 120v coming from the board to the heating element. Also, when disconnecting power to the board the burner lights immediately and will continue to burn. Would there be an advantage to connecting the heater directly to 120v?
Replacing the control board did correct the problem with the unit not lighting...but unfortunately its not cooling. We do have quite an issue with dirt dobbers and I'm wondering if there could be a blockage to the cooling unit.
I appreciate any input!
Thanks!

[Gjac]

Before you replace any more parts I would check the cooling unit first to see if it is good by discontenting the 120v heater from the board and connecting it directly to a 120v source and let it run overnight. If the refer cools down your unit is good and the problem is elsewhere. Let us know the results. Did you read the troubleshooting section that Old Biscuit posted?

[Guitarboss]

Well, I installed a new Dinosaur board and everything appeared to be good... when switching to gas, the flame lights with no problems. However, the unit is not cooling - left it running for 12 hrs on electric (not cooling) and 12 hrs on LP (not cooling). The fridge doesn't have any odor and no sight of yellow residue. I triple checked that all of my connections to the board are the correct wires and it appears correct.
Not sure where to go from here.
Any input and/or suggestions will be greatly appreciated!
Just trying to avoid buying a $1200 fridge.
Thanks!
Steve

[Old-Biscuit]

Check the 12V DC voltage at solenoid when spark electrode is 'firing'
DC is only on solenoid for 6-8 seconds during ignition cycle.
Main flame has to light off and 'PROVE' it lit during that time or circuit board drops voltage to solenoid.

Spark electrode MUST be directly engulfed in main flame to prove flame lit


See pg. 8 etc for tests/troubleshooting

[Mandalay_Parr]

If the flame does not heat the thermocouple properly the gas will turn back off.

[Guitarboss]

donn0128 wrote:
Do you smell anything strange when you open the outside access panels?
If not, then quite,likey the control board is bad. Dinosaur boards are reasonable and better than dometic boards.

No strange smell and no residue anywhere. I will check out the dinosaur board. Thanks for the info!

[1492]

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