Run Solar Circuit and Shore Power at the same time?

[RedRocket204]

I'm about ready to install a smaller 200W solar system and have a question that I am finding multiple responses to. Do you run both your Solar circuit and Shore power at the same time?

Now, keep in mind I will be adding a + side 30A DC Disconnect Switch between the Charge Controller and battery bank. I already own the 30A DC Disconnect Switch and want it on there in the event I need to disconnect the Solar circuit from the battery bank. There will also be a 30A inline fuse between the Charge Controller and DC Disconnect Switch. That being I will have the ability to shut off the Solar circuit when connected to Shore power. But is that needed? Same would go for if I needed to run a generator for the AC.

Here is one source stating that it is no problems to run both at the same time: amsolar.com - Charge Controllers. Info is about 1/4 of the way down the page. But I've also read where you want to run those circuits isolated from each other.

Charge Controller is a Renogy branded 30A PWM. I've also recently replaced the TT battery charger with a Go Power! GPC-75-MAX 75 Amp 4-Stage Converter/Battery Charger.

Thanks.

[MrWizard]

i had over 600watts of solar on the previous RV, it was always connected even if on shore or generator, it was never disconnected unless i was working on the battery cables, changing batteries, inverter etc..

there is NO NEED to disconnect the solar from the batteries, if you have decent controller with the correct settings for your batteries

[time2roll]

Dirtclods wrote:
Do you run both your Solar circuit and Shore power at the same time. NO!

What kind of batteries are you running and how many?

Generally my converter stays off but I most certainly have run both at the same time. No issues.

Truck charges at the same time as we drive. Still no issues.

[Dirtclods]

Do you run both your Solar circuit and Shore power at the same time. NO!

What kind of batteries are you running and how many?

[hypoxia]

I have a disconnect between the panels and controller. I leave the solar connected all the time. The only issue I see is the solar has its equalizing schedule and the charger has its equalizing schedule. The batteries may use more water on two equalizing cycles, so you have to pay attention to the water.

[austinjenna]

I also never disconnect the solar, when i get the rv park I just plug into pedestal and thats about it, no need to disconnect anything.

[pianotuna]

You would have to have permission to sell power back to reduce the bill.

[time2roll]

TexasJwdd wrote:
So how do you push power back into the grid to lower your electricity bill when plugged in?

If you have solar you can unplug from the grid and run just on battery to save grid power.

You will need a grid-tie inverter to actually back feed the grid. Probably not worth the effort unless you are at 1000+ solar watts.

[TexasJwdd]

So how do you push power back into the grid to lower your electricity bill when plugged in?

[RedRocket204]

jplante4 wrote:

pianotuna wrote:
replace the controller with the Grape 40 amp. The one you have is pretty low end.

X2 on this. Great controller and it has bluetooth built in. Email customer support at Grape for a link to the phone app that will read the current status and history directly from the controller.

UPDATE: Got everything installed with the current kit (pun intended). I do appreciate the info on the controller and most likely will replace my current controller. Everything with the install went fine and was not difficult at all, routing the wiring and getting everything sealed up took most of the time. And as mentioned, I did put the disconnect between the solar panels and controller.

Just got back from my 5 day trip where we went to central CO and camped at around 9,500 feet. We were blessed with great weather, mostly sun shine with scattered clouds and scattered light rain in the afternoon. I was out riding all day, every day so not sure how long it took to recharge my two 12 volt batteries but seemed extremely efficient. We usually left camp by 9am and it seems the batteries were already at full charge by then.

Battery usage was fairly light, maybe 4-5 LED lights, "propane" refrigerator, propane detector, directly connected USB charger for two phones and ipad, and the propane OEM heater. Morning lows were cold, down to 29 degrees every morning with lots of frost, brrrr.

It was AWESOME not having to run a generator!!! Eventually, I do want to add in an inverter for some minor AC electrical items and realize I may need to add an additional panel or two along with upping my battery Ah ability. I am glad I still have my generators as a backup, but so happy I didn't have to run them. Just a great first experience delving into solar.

[jplante4]

Kayteg1 wrote:
My converter takes 50W doing nothing and overcharges the batteries at 14.2V, so when I plug in power, I disconnect the batteries unless they need charging.
If you have good solar controller, it will extend battery life instead of shortening it like most converters do.

If your charging circuit is a 3 stage charger, then this voltage is correct. My Xantrex goes to 14.5 for a while when I first plug in. It's called boost or bulk mode. The Grape solar controller will do this as well.

[jplante4]

pianotuna wrote:
replace the controller with the Grape 40 amp. The one you have is pretty low end.

X2 on this. Great controller and it has bluetooth built in. Email customer support at Grape for a link to the phone app that will read the current status and history directly from the controller.

[pianotuna]

replace the controller with the Grape 40 amp. The one you have is pretty low end.

[RedRocket204]

red31 wrote:
what power source is used to open/keep open/close the gas valve?

I was of the understanding it does use battery to re-ignite and I did mention that piece for parasitic draw. However, I do not really know how the fuel line is kept open... I suppose I thought it was a thermocouple or similar. I don't recall exact fridge type as it's stored about 30 minutes from my house. I'm thinking it is a Dometic, OEM installed.

An item I did forget about was extending and bringing in the slide.

[red31]

RedRocket204 wrote:
My fridge is only Propane or AC.

what power source is used to open/keep open/close the gas valve?