The Official unofficial CPE 2000i Generator Thread

[pritch272]

8/1/2010 edit: Thread renamed at the suggestion of the Professor.
Renamed from: Champion Inverter and Remote Gens Promo on CPE's web site)

3/22/2011 edit: Thread renamed ...
Renamed from: Official CPE 2000 Watt Inverter Generator Thread

3/23/2011 edit: Thread renamed at the suggestion of the Professor.
Renamed from: (Un)Official CPE 2000 Watt Inverter Generator Thread

Inverter Available August 2010



Remote Available July 2010

[Capt_Storm]

PrivatePilot wrote:

Capt.Storm wrote:
I think you mean turn off the charger...not the converter.
The way that I do it is to turn my batt disconnect to off if I'm plugged into my house(15 amp) if I want to run my air safely...that would be like running off a lower output gen.

Unless you have a particularly advanced converter/charger combo (or separate units) you should double check what you're doing there - it can actually be harmful to your electronics such as your fridge.

The standard RV converter uses the battery to provide voltage buffering. What you're doing by effectively removing the battery from the system is removing that failsafe. It also doesn't save a lot of draw from the generator (unless it was charging the battery at high rate at that moment in time) since you are STILL running the converter to power your interior electronics and lights, pumps, etc. (Yes, the draw is potentially very low, but some converters, even if providing ZERO output still draw a notable input wattage - they are after-all usually just a cheap power transformer....)

What I suggest (completely shutting it off) sheds the entire 12V load to the battery for the duration you need the extra power. It also effectively removes the draw from the charger side of the converter.

I was just talking about when I'm home and I'm plugged into my 15 amp house outlet and i want to run my aircon I turn the batt to off.
Has not hurt anything yet not using the batt for a buffer...and that's with my 22 12vac tv playing.
Pretty sure newer converts do not need a batt for buffering.

[professor95]

PrivatePilot wrote:
The "automatic" method of killing things while using the microwave is interesting, but not sure it's worth the hassle, at least IMHO - A simple DPST mounted beside my microwave kills my converter for however long I need it off. No, it's not automatic, but it IS simple..and cost me $2 for the switch, $2 for some wire, and my own time to install it.

Anything automatic would potentially have issues with timing, as well otherwise there's a big potential that whatever heavy load is coming online (Microwave) wouldn't kill the light load (Converter) in time to prevent a generator overload from happening anyways.

True.

I think I posted here before that early 30 amp trailers equipped with an electric water heater element had a switch next to the microwave to select one or the other. Sort of like what you have done.....

Me? My circuit breakers in my Cedar Creek fiver with 50-50 amp service are easily accessible in the kitchen area. I have them labeled. The converter is on a separate breaker, as is the microwave and the water heater. It is easy to just flip the breaker off as needed.

BTW - It did not come that way. I had to add additional breakers and split up combined circuits. I now have a total of 16 breakers in the SEP. When I bought it there were only six breakers plus the 50-50 amp main.

On the current sensing strip - It takes at least 25 watts to turn it on. I don't think the microwave clock uses that much energy. But, since my microwave has the exhaust fan and stove overhead light built in the strip really would not be a good idea. Just brainstorming - that is what us old retired electronics enabled guys do.;)

[PrivatePilot]

The "automatic" method of killing things while using the microwave is interesting, but not sure it's worth the hassle, at least IMHO - A simple DPST mounted beside my microwave kills my converter for however long I need it off. No, it's not automatic, but it IS simple..and cost me $2 for the switch, $2 for some wire, and my own time to install it.

Anything automatic would potentially have issues with timing, as well otherwise there's a big potential that whatever heavy load is coming online (Microwave) wouldn't kill the light load (Converter) in time to prevent a generator overload from happening anyways.

[Old___Slow]

professor95 wrote:

snarfattack wrote:
Even with the battery disconnected there is still going to be a draw from the converter to power 12v appliances/devices. If you completely turn off the converter, your 12v appliances/devices will run off the battery and you will have full generator power available for your high draw 120v appliances. Most of those high draw appliances only need the extra power during start-up, so PrivatePilots method of putting in a switch to turn off the converter would allow you to turn it off during the startup period, and then turn the converter back on.

If you wanted to get really fancy, you could add an extra relay to the A/C thermostat circuit that would cut power to the converter whenever it decided to turn the A/C on. With some cool electrical engineering you could make the relay only kick off for a minute to allow the A/C to finish starting up. Doing an automatic cut-out for the Microwave would require some EE skill as well.

Actually, it should not take an EE. You can purchase inexpensive current sensing switches at most any store that sells power tools. They are commonly plugged into a wall outlet and then the appliance, like a power saw or sander, is plugged into the device. When the saw cuts on, the device senses the current and provides 120 VAC to to another outlet on the device to turn ON a vacuum to pick up the sawdust.

If such a device were plugged into a microwave outlet and an extension cord run from the same device to a 20 amp Double Throw 120 VAC relay mounted in a box the relay would be moved from a normally closed state to open. If the converter was wired across the contact that is Normally Closed, it would cut off whatever was connected (converter) when the microwave was turned on. Same is true for an A/C except it would need additional wiring.

Why this method? Well, the current sensing circuit is ready made and available - nothing to build. DPDT or SPDT 120 VAC relays are readily available. All additional wiring can be done using conventional wiring boxes and materials.

OK - I'm an EE..... But I can think like a ROF.

Well I'm no EE and kinda Old and Slow so I have no idea about the'ROF' if that's me, so be it. If all these current sensing devices will make the new 2000i Champion operate the microwave and the A/C, that truly is a wonderful thing. My hats off to you.

On this day of 9/11 my heart is sad. Good news is a great thing.

Floyd

[snarfattack]

I was thinking about those current sensing power strips... but don't know if the current of the clock electronics from the microwave would be enough to trip it, requiring some EE knowledge to get it to work right...

[professor95]

snarfattack wrote:
Even with the battery disconnected there is still going to be a draw from the converter to power 12v appliances/devices. If you completely turn off the converter, your 12v appliances/devices will run off the battery and you will have full generator power available for your high draw 120v appliances. Most of those high draw appliances only need the extra power during start-up, so PrivatePilots method of putting in a switch to turn off the converter would allow you to turn it off during the startup period, and then turn the converter back on.

If you wanted to get really fancy, you could add an extra relay to the A/C thermostat circuit that would cut power to the converter whenever it decided to turn the A/C on. With some cool electrical engineering you could make the relay only kick off for a minute to allow the A/C to finish starting up. Doing an automatic cut-out for the Microwave would require some EE skill as well.

Actually, it should not take an EE. You can purchase inexpensive current sensing switches at most any store that sells power tools. They are commonly plugged into a wall outlet and then the appliance, like a power saw or sander, is plugged into the device. When the saw cuts on, the device senses the current and provides 120 VAC to to another outlet on the device to turn ON a vacuum to pick up the sawdust.

If such a device were plugged into a microwave outlet and an extension cord run from the same device to a 20 amp Double Throw 120 VAC relay mounted in a box the relay would be moved from a normally closed state to open. If the converter was wired across the contact that is Normally Closed, it would cut off whatever was connected (converter) when the microwave was turned on. Same is true for an A/C except it would need additional wiring.

Why this method? Well, the current sensing circuit is ready made and available - nothing to build. DPDT or SPDT 120 VAC relays are readily available. All additional wiring can be done using conventional wiring boxes and materials.

OK - I'm an EE..... But I can think like a ROF.

[snarfattack]

Even with the battery disconnected there is still going to be a draw from the converter to power 12v appliances/devices. If you completely turn off the converter, your 12v appliances/devices will run off the battery and you will have full generator power available for your high draw 120v appliances. Most of those high draw appliances only need the extra power during start-up, so PrivatePilots method of putting in a switch to turn off the converter would allow you to turn it off during the startup period, and then turn the converter back on.

If you wanted to get really fancy, you could add an extra relay to the A/C thermostat circuit that would cut power to the converter whenever it decided to turn the A/C on. With some cool electrical engineering you could make the relay only kick off for a minute to allow the A/C to finish starting up. Doing an automatic cut-out for the Microwave would require some EE skill as well.

[PrivatePilot]

Capt.Storm wrote:
I think you mean turn off the charger...not the converter.
The way that I do it is to turn my batt disconnect to off if I'm plugged into my house(15 amp) if I want to run my air safely...that would be like running off a lower output gen.

Unless you have a particularly advanced converter/charger combo (or separate units) you should double check what you're doing there - it can actually be harmful to your electronics such as your fridge.

The standard RV converter uses the battery to provide voltage buffering. What you're doing by effectively removing the battery from the system is removing that failsafe. It also doesn't save a lot of draw from the generator (unless it was charging the battery at high rate at that moment in time) since you are STILL running the converter to power your interior electronics and lights, pumps, etc. (Yes, the draw is potentially very low, but some converters, even if providing ZERO output still draw a notable input wattage - they are after-all usually just a cheap power transformer....)

What I suggest (completely shutting it off) sheds the entire 12V load to the battery for the duration you need the extra power. It also effectively removes the draw from the charger side of the converter.

[Capt_Storm]

I think you mean turn off the charger...not the converter.
The way that I do it is to turn my batt disconnect to off if I'm plugged into my house(15 amp) if I want to run my air safely...that would be like running off a lower output gen.

[Old___Slow]

PrivatePilot wrote:

professor95 wrote:
The advice from CPE given to contributor/member Fixx to try turning off his converter was good advice. ... If one's desire is to be able to run everything just like being plugged into a 50-50 split 100 amp shore power outlet or even a 30 amp outlet without rotating power loads then something like the Marquis Gold 7500 might be a better generator choice.

Agreed.. Small generators require creative use of the output and a lot of people forget that the converter running can be the difference between being able to run the AC or Microwave....or not. I was able to start and run my 13.5KBTU AC on my old Honeywell 2000 inverter generator without much issue..but I HAD to kill the converter first. Since it shared a circuit with a rather important plug elsewhere in the trailer I eventually just wired in a separate switch in the kitchen to turn it off.

I'm reading some of the replies here ("Turn off my converter? OMG never!") and wondering WHY people are scared of it. So long as you conserve when you turn it off and the battery is in good shape you can run for days without the converter on a single battery....to turn it off for even a full day (to run AC, for example) shouldn't freak people out - just turn it back on later when you've shed enough load from the generator in order to have enough capacity to turn it back on.

PrivatePilot,

Your statement is vary interesting. To summarise what 'Professor95' stated a few posts back and from the chart given, here we go. The 13,500 Btu compressor 'Locked Rotor Amp' for the 13,500 Btu A/C is 58amps. It is EXTREMELY doubtful that a 1600w Inverter can produce 13/15 amps. (unquote)I have the Champion C46540 and captured with a clamp on meter, a peak of 49.5 amps when my 13,500 compressor started. It has been stated many times, the rotating mass of the non Inverter gen will produce a far greater peak than the Inverters. I have read many posts of folks with the 3000w peak/2600w running 3000w Inverters having trouble starting some 13,500 btu A/C's. If someone will come on here and give creditable testing to prove the Inveters can produce the 58a peak needed to start any 13,500 A/C without fail, that will be a 'boon' to the world of the Inverters.

One exception. There is one trusted report of the Honda 2000i at near sea level, starting one certain A/C when near new.

Please, will someone show the true facts of what the new 2000w Champion will show with a clamp on meter for the peak starting any A/C. And the max 30 minute running output. Either it will or it won't perform as advertised. And the true dBA with full output.

[PrivatePilot]

professor95 wrote:
The advice from CPE given to contributor/member Fixx to try turning off his converter was good advice. ... If one's desire is to be able to run everything just like being plugged into a 50-50 split 100 amp shore power outlet or even a 30 amp outlet without rotating power loads then something like the Marquis Gold 7500 might be a better generator choice.

Agreed.. Small generators require creative use of the output and a lot of people forget that the converter running can be the difference between being able to run the AC or Microwave....or not. I was able to start and run my 13.5KBTU AC on my old Honeywell 2000 inverter generator without much issue..but I HAD to kill the converter first. Since it shared a circuit with a rather important plug elsewhere in the trailer I eventually just wired in a separate switch in the kitchen to turn it off.

I'm reading some of the replies here ("Turn off my converter? OMG never!") and wondering WHY people are scared of it. So long as you conserve when you turn it off and the battery is in good shape you can run for days without the converter on a single battery....to turn it off for even a full day (to run AC, for example) shouldn't freak people out - just turn it back on later when you've shed enough load from the generator in order to have enough capacity to turn it back on.

[orionpaxx]

you'll hear more of a follow-up when there is more to say... right now i've got the champion inverter powering the lights (2 cfl bulbs) a titan hot water heater and my water pump. so far, it's a great little geny.
i do plan on getting another and either getting running them in parallel all the time or running them to 2 separate sets of outlet on the truck. i've also had no problem brewing coffee with my commercial bunn brewer, though i didn't have anything else running at the time.
i'll be glad to answer any questions i can or post any photos or videos. i'm excited to hear about a 3000 watt version!
as of now, i don't really run anything on the truck with a motor, most equip. just has heavy duty heating elements.

[GrWhiteNorth]

Unfortunately, I don't have much information to report back...and no hard evidence. I only needed to use the generator (73552i) twice during my last trip. Only used to charge the batteries...didn't try the micro.

I have heard Honda's in campgrounds before and was pleasantly surprised at the noise level of my new gen. All I can say is my wife thought it hardily audible. 🙂

[Old___Slow]

Old & Slow wrote:

orionpaxx wrote:
hey all,
new here. picked one of these inverters up today at sams club for $499usd.
i've got to say i'm happy so far, the plan is to get another and run the parallel kit.
i'll be using these in a espresso concession trailer. so, i'll need the combined power.
the unit started on the first easy pull, warmed up and took a few heavy loads.
commercial bunn brewer rated 1600 watt 13.3 amps...
on idle it's very quiet! i'll post more as it unfolds.
Jay

I'm always amazed with the first posts by someone new, that appear on these 'Plug-a thons' They all seems to hit where the discusions question something about the product. Like above, it will output 1600w/13.3 amps. I would think the 'espresso concession trailer' would need some real heavy duty power. Their are many first time posters we never hear from with follow ups. And true usefull info'How does this happen? As for this 'Official CPE 2000 Watt Generator' I still want to see some creditable post showing the use of an 1200w Microwave or any A/C. Or any real proof of 1600w running and 2000w peak. Either it will or it won't, preform for 30 minutes with a 1600w load.

Comment on the first video. Sounded to me like the engine might fly apart. I do hope these new Champion Inverters prove they are well engineered and manufactured and give many years of great service just like the Honda EU2000i that seems to be the 'Gold Standard' The question is, can/will the Chinese do this?

Lot's of questions remain. As per above. There must be something to the Kipor story. We are told the Kipor/Champion 1000i for Canada is just a rebadged Kipor. And now we see all the new Kipor units are the color Yellow and Black. Will more future Inverters with the Champion badge be produced in a Kipor Mfg plant?

[professor95]

Wayne Dohnal wrote:
I hope it doesn't look like I'm trying to infiltrate the CPE thread with Honda info.

And I likewise hope it doesn't look like I'm trying to infiltrate the thread with Kipor info.

At least there will be some data here for comparison when the CPE 2000i gets into the hands of more RVers.