The Official unofficial CPE 2000i Generator Thread

[pritch272]

8/1/2010 edit: Thread renamed at the suggestion of the Professor.
Renamed from: Champion Inverter and Remote Gens Promo on CPE's web site)

3/22/2011 edit: Thread renamed ...
Renamed from: Official CPE 2000 Watt Inverter Generator Thread

3/23/2011 edit: Thread renamed at the suggestion of the Professor.
Renamed from: (Un)Official CPE 2000 Watt Inverter Generator Thread

Inverter Available August 2010



Remote Available July 2010

[pritch272]

DSchmidt_2000 wrote:

DSchmidt_2000 wrote:
Called WiseSales and they said they just post what Honda lists.
Spoke to a guy there and he said I can expect 9-10 hours for a EU2000i running in eco-throttle mode. Same as the CPE 2000i so I'll likely get the CPE.

Wish Costco was running the same deal here as they are in Canada. Tried to buy it on their Canadian website for shipping to the US - no go.

Called Honda directly. They state the runtime for the EU2000i at 1/4 load with eco-throttle on is 9.6 hours, not 15. They insist it was never 15 hours.

So there is no fuel economy advantage to getting a Honda over this CPI 2000i if one goes by mfg stated specs.

This is if all you do is run at *that* load. I suspect that *loaded* there is a substantial difference.

[Old___Slow]

DSchmidt_2000 wrote:

DSchmidt_2000 wrote:
Called WiseSales and they said they just post what Honda lists.
Spoke to a guy there and he said I can expect 9-10 hours for a EU2000i running in eco-throttle mode. Same as the CPE 2000i so I'll likely get the CPE.

Wish Costco was running the same deal here as they are in Canada. Tried to buy it on their Canadian website for shipping to the US - no go.

Called Honda directly. They state the runtime for the EU2000i at 1/4 load with eco-throttle on is 9.6 hours, not 15. They insist it was never 15 hours.

So there is no fuel economy advantage to getting a Honda over this CPI 2000i if one goes by mfg stated specs.

There may be one more thing to consider. Honda Retail parts all over the US. With CPE, as far as I know, they have No Authorized Retail Parts anywhere in the US. Someone said years ago they would have Retail parts just like many other Chinese brands. Are they a Authorized Retailer in Calif. or elsewhere? Doesn't appear that way.

[DSchmidt_2000]

DSchmidt_2000 wrote:
Called WiseSales and they said they just post what Honda lists.
Spoke to a guy there and he said I can expect 9-10 hours for a EU2000i running in eco-throttle mode. Same as the CPE 2000i so I'll likely get the CPE.

Wish Costco was running the same deal here as they are in Canada. Tried to buy it on their Canadian website for shipping to the US - no go.

Called Honda directly. They state the runtime for the EU2000i at 1/4 load with eco-throttle on is 9.6 hours, not 15. They insist it was never 15 hours.

So there is no fuel economy advantage to getting a Honda over this CPI 2000i if one goes by mfg stated specs.

[Old___Slow]

Well, why can't we go to the 'Coleman Polar Cub" @ 9200 btu ~1/3 hp compressor~900/1100 watts~ full load rated @ 8.00a, for use with the 2000i Inverters. No problem for the Honda EU2000i~~~both nice and quiet. Better than my Onan and the 13,500 btu noise makers. Would be great for sleeping. Or maybe I'm just to darn old for all the noise and my ears are not so good either.:(

[professor95]

Wayne Dohnal wrote:
I don't want to ruin the thread arguing over over this, but for clarification........

:h I didn't realize we were arguing. I though my comments were in support of your findings. Different compressors, fan speeds, loads, head pressure - all variables that change from one manufacturer to another and often in identical models.

[Wayne_Dohnal]

professor95 wrote:

We all know that the current for the fan is not fixed. It will increase with speed and resistance to air movement in the fan blades (there are two). As heat increases, so does line pressure on the high side. Compressor motors must work harder (more current draw) as pressure rises.

A/C amperage ratings by the manufacturer should be maximum under these high load conditions. Thus, it is not unexpected that a 15 amp rated A/C will only draw 12 amps under low load conditions.

I don't want to ruin the thread arguing over over this, but for clarification the numbers I quoted were on a 100 degree day, air conditioner outside unit in full sun, and fan on high. I measured the power with both an AC clamp meter and a watt hour meter. If all the air conditioners are about the same than it's a darned coincidence that of those who have reported on the forum, way more than half of those with the Brisk Air run just fine with the eu2000i, while most RVP Coleman users report failure.

[professor95]

Wayne Dohnal wrote:
Not all 13,500 btuh air conditioners are equal.

Yep. But I do not believe any of them (Coleman, Dometic, etc.) build their own compressor. My bet is they come from another supplier. Mine is not a Copeland - not sure where it was made.

We all know that the current for the fan is not fixed. It will increase with speed and resistance to air movement in the fan blades (there are two). As heat increases, so does line pressure on the high side. Compressor motors must work harder (more current draw) as pressure rises.

A/C amperage ratings by the manufacturer should be maximum under these high load conditions. Thus, it is not unexpected that a 15 amp rated A/C will only draw 12 amps under low load conditions.

I would really like to have some hard and true numbers on the new high efficiency 13.5K BTU units rated at 10 amps.

[Wayne_Dohnal]

Not all 13,500 btuh air conditioners are equal. In my former rig the Dometic standard efficiency Brisk Air pulled about 12 amps after it had stabilized on a hot day. Even with the converter on, the eu2000i ran at less than its maximum RPM. Several other forum members posted the same result. I don't have any hesitation running a generator at or below its continuous rated load. My current 15,000 btuh air conditioner starts out pulling less than 1,600 VA but after a few minutes climbs above, so it's no more air conditioner on the little Honda for me.

[professor95]

Mr.Grumpy wrote:
Hey!

Picked up my Champion 2000i last week from Costco. Today it was warm enough (17C) that the compressor would kick in on the A/C on shore power. So I fired up the Champion and like we all have been guessing, it overloaded right way. I've got the cap mod on my 13,5 A/C unit but no joy. I did have it running on a Honda 2000i last fall, day was about 24C. I will test it again as I've read that after the compressor kicks in, it's actually harder to restart it on a stop start situation like I did. I still suspect it won't work but I'll try anyways!!

Trailer is a 1998 Fleetwood Wilderness 5th with a Coleman A/C unit (of the same year I assume).

Ryan

Ryan,
The high and low pressure sides of your piston type compressor need to equalize before restarting the compressor. (low side will be around 70 psi, high 250 psi during "normal" operation) Equalization can take several minutes as the freon moves through an extremely tiny capillary tube. Restarting before equalization makes the compressor motor push against the high pressure and exerts an additional load. It is worthy to note that the high pressure side can go as high as 350 psi on a HOT (100+ degree) day. This will, of course, create an additional running load that also increases amperage draw.

Your A/C is a 15 amp unit. The CPE 2000i has a 13.2 amp circuit breaker. Starting current on your A/C, even with a larger starting capacitor, will be at least 2X to 4X the running current (30 to 60 amps LRC). It will remain a no joy item for your 2000i.

The Honda eu2000i, like my Kipor KGE2000i, may start a 13.5 A/C with no other loads, but I would not risk damage to my generator by trying to sustain A/C operation. This thread provided some interesting commentary on running a full size RV A/C with a Honda eu2000i.

[Mr_Grumpy]

Hey!

Picked up my Champion 2000i last week from Costco. Today it was warm enough (17C) that the compressor would kick in on the A/C on shore power. So I fired up the Champion and like we all have been guessing, it overloaded right way. I've got the cap mod on my 13,5 A/C unit but no joy. I did have it running on a Honda 2000i last fall, day was about 24C. I will test it again as I've read that after the compressor kicks in, it's actually harder to restart it on a stop start situation like I did. I still suspect it won't work but I'll try anyways!!

Trailer is a 1998 Fleetwood Wilderness 5th with a Coleman A/C unit (of the same year I assume).

Ryan

[DSchmidt_2000]

SplashDancer wrote:
DSchmit, it's one of the VERY few times that ANYTHING is cheaper up here, and I do mean anything.

True, though with the falling US dollar I'm thinking it's going to be more commonplace. The Canadian dollar is worth more than the US right now.

Local Sam's has it for $499 + local sales tax of 8.75%.

Got a short email from WiseSales saying that their website is correct (15 hours runtime). Guess I'll call Honda to get the question 'officially' answered.

[SplashDancer]

DSchmit, it's one of the VERY few times that ANYTHING is cheaper up here, and I do mean anything. Nice of Costco Canada to give us a break.
I bought mine last week, 1 left at the building. Then was at another store yesterday, last day of the sale, and they had at least 10 left.
I stayed with one only since it'll do what I need but up here it would have been 2 plus the paralleling kit for still about $400-500 less than the single Red 2000 model, so was a no-brainer as they say.

[DSchmidt_2000]

Called WiseSales and they said they just post what Honda lists.
Spoke to a guy there and he said I can expect 9-10 hours for a EU2000i running in eco-throttle mode. Same as the CPE 2000i so I'll likely get the CPE.

Wish Costco was running the same deal here as they are in Canada. Tried to buy it on their Canadian website for shipping to the US - no go.

[Wayne_Dohnal]

If anybody is spending a lot of time running fuel consumption or load tests I strongly suggest measuring the load with something like a kill-a-watt meter. Lamps aren't precision devices and just because one says xxx watts doesn't mean that's what it's really drawing. Portable heaters are often way off from their advertised wattage, and things like the 1825 watt hair dryers are rated at 125 volts. The amount of power drawn by a load will also vary with the make/model of generator, and things like extension cords that might be in use. Measuring is the only way to know what the load really is.

[PrivatePilot]

professor95 wrote:
Did you ever see or own an old style Beetle with an air cooled engine in the back? Cabin heat came from an air exchanger around the muffler

Some also had a gas heater, another royal treat. You got used to freezing to death in the winter when you drove a Beetle, no matter what heater option it had.

Anyhow, now *I'M* dragging the thread OT much to my own irritation! 🙂