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2008 Dodge Ram Wanders

sportsman_500
Explorer
Explorer
I will try to keep this as short as possible. My truck is a 2008 Dodge Ram/Cummins 4X4 quad cab. The front end is tight and has been recently aligned. The tires are 285/70R17 Cooper Discoverer AT "E". This truck is new to me with 63k miles and I purchased it with the Cooper tires on it.
Towing I run the tires at 80 PSI and daily driving I have tried different combinations but found 50 front, 60 rear to work the best. I pull a Raptor 3018 equipped with a Reese dual cam hitch that has been properly set-up. I normally run around 1,200lb. tongue weight.

My issue is while driving the truck will not keep a straight line. It seems I am constantly making minor adjustments with the steering wheel. It is more noticeable on the highway. While towing it is even worse to the point where it is hard to tell if it is trailer sway or the truck. 60-65 MPH and it can be a handful! I went back over my hitch today. I flipped the cams and borrowed a set of new bars from a friend with no change. The only thing I noticed is if I go up one link on my chains to 4 from 5 and add some tension it helps a bit but not much.
I am at the point of trying a different set of tires but am looking for some input before I go that route.
27 REPLIES 27

Keith_Haw
Explorer
Explorer
Bionic Man wrote:
I would reduce the PSI in the front tires before trying anything else.


Same here. I think mine calls for 80 rear 60 front. But I only run that when towing. Mine wonders a little to but not bad enough to do much else, yet.

ib516
Explorer II
Explorer II
Your steering box may be worn out.
Prev: 2010 Cougar 322QBS (junk)
02 Dodge 2500 4x4 5.9L CTD 3.55
07 Dodge 3500 4x4 SRW Mega 5.9L CTD 3.73
14 Ram 2500 4x4 Crew 6.4L Hemi 4.10
06 Chevy 1500 4x4 E-Cab 3.73 5.3L
07 Dodge 1500 5.7L Hemi 3.55 / 2010 Jayco 17z
All above are sold, no longer own an RV

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
I would run the fronts at 72psi always and the rears 45 solo and 80 towing.This will get you the best tire wear. You are way too low with 50 front.

Tires can make you wander.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

sportsman_500
Explorer
Explorer
Just to give a quick update to everyone. 2 weeks ago we made our first long trip, 350 miles to Hatfield McCoy Trails. Worst ride of my life! The rig was all over the road. I couldn't keep the sway down for the life of me! It was worse in traffic. Even when getting passed by smaller vehicles they would push me all over the road! On the ride home I stopped and made another minor adjustment to the hitch with little or no difference.
I pulled the trigger and replaced the new Cooper AT3's with a set of Firestone Destination AT's. Same size and load range. Took a short test drive last night up on the highway with the Raptor and wow! what huge difference! Next weekend we are going on a 150 mile trip. Can't wait to give her a good test. I did also order the gear box brace. I still have a very small wander while driving both hooked and unhooked. I figure for $120 it can't hurt?

Turtle_n_Peeps
Explorer
Explorer
mileshuff wrote:
My 2007 Ram also wanders a bit requiring constant slight correction when on the highway. Done this since new. At the time others on forums had stated similar experiences. I had the Dodge dealer replace the steering linkage with the newer design found on 2008+ rams. Much heavier tie rods etc. Didn't help.

Others on forums have stated that Dodge's typical alignment settings have too much camber causing the wander. I don't know much about that sort of thing and have yet to have a shop adjust it different than Dodge specs. Anyone confirm this issue?


You want to put more castor into the front end not less to fix wander. I'm a drag racer so I want the most castor I can put into a front end. The more I have the more stable the car is going in a straight line.

The problem with doing this with your truck is death wobble. The more castor you put in the front end the more of a chance of death wobble showing up so you have to hit a happy medium.
~ Too many freaks & not enough circuses ~


"Life is not tried ~ it is merely survived ~ if you're standing
outside the fire"

"The best way to get a bad law repealed is to enforce it strictly."- Abraham Lincoln

mileshuff
Explorer
Explorer
My 2007 Ram also wanders a bit requiring constant slight correction when on the highway. Done this since new. At the time others on forums had stated similar experiences. I had the Dodge dealer replace the steering linkage with the newer design found on 2008+ rams. Much heavier tie rods etc. Didn't help.

Others on forums have stated that Dodge's typical alignment settings have too much camber causing the wander. I don't know much about that sort of thing and have yet to have a shop adjust it different than Dodge specs. Anyone confirm this issue?
2014 Winnebago 26FWRKS 5th Wheel
2007.5 Dodge 2500 6.7L Diesel
2004 Dodge Durango Hemi 3.55 (Used to tow TT)

DirtyOil
Explorer
Explorer
I did check the front end while I had the truck on a lift installing my trans temp sensor. I commented on how tight everything was.
Yesterday I had my wife turn the steering wheel back and forth and as I watched from underneath. The tie rod at the pitman arm would pop up about 3/8" every time she changed direction! No side to side play though. I replaced the part yesterday morning and it seemed to make a difference. I took the truck up on the highway and cruised at 75 straight as an arrow. I don't make my first trip with our trailer for a few weeks but I did find an adjustment off on the hitch head which should get the towing straightened out..



Good to see, that you have corrected the issue. Nothing more "white knuckle" or frustrating then fighting the front end, on these beasts. Happy Rv'ing! :B


P.S. don't waste your money on the steering box brace, had one on my 05 didn't stop the pitman arm tie rod from wearing out or prevent damage to the steering boxing, I replaced both after installing the "brace".
2013 RAM 3500 CTD Crew 4x4 Laramie
2014 Sprinter Copper Canyon 269FWRLS

GUTS GLORY RAM

sportsman_500
Explorer
Explorer
DirtyOil wrote:
As many would agree, sometimes the so-called experts miss something or another for what ever reason (we all have the odd bad day). Here's a few things you can do yourself.

If your able and can get down under the truck's front end, and you have a helper, here are few things to look at.

Have your helper, with truck running, turn the steering left and right (at a moderate speed) while your under the front bumper.

Things to look at while wheels are being steered:

Trac-Bar bushings - any movement at the joints? Replace

Pitman arm ball joint - if pitman arm is moving and the "tie-rod end" is trying to catch up. Replace pitman arm ball joint.

Steering box - look for "sloppy" movement at the steering box shaft, also look at the universal joint on the steering shaft from between the steering wheel to the steering box (some times that joint wears out and will make it feel like as you described. Replace steering box or universal joint on steering shaft.

Tie rod ends - (with truck off wheels straight) grab the linkage and see if you can twist the tie rods, if yes? Replace tie rod end(s).

Ball joints - slightly jack one tire up at a time get tire up high enough to get a pry bar under the tire and have helper lift up and down on it, while you look for excessive movement (should be very little to almost no movement, up or down at the joint) in the upper and/or lower ball joints. Replace ball joints. (although I doubt ball joints are causing "wander" they are more likely to give (besides odd tire wear)you some vibration and/or a banging sound over pavement cracks and telescope up to the steering wheel.


I did check the front end while I had the truck on a lift installing my trans temp sensor. I commented on how tight everything was.
Yesterday I had my wife turn the steering wheel back and forth and as I watched from underneath. The tie rod at the pitman arm would pop up about 3/8" every time she changed direction! No side to side play though. I replaced the part yesterday morning and it seemed to make a difference. I took the truck up on the highway and cruised at 75 straight as an arrow. I don't make my first trip with our trailer for a few weeks but I did find an adjustment off on the hitch head which should get the towing straightened out..

transamz9
Explorer
Explorer
DirtyOil wrote:
As many would agree, sometimes the so-called experts miss something or another for what ever reason (we all have the odd bad day). Here's a few things you can do yourself.

If your able and can get down under the truck's front end, and you have a helper, here are few things to look at.

Have your helper, with truck running, turn the steering left and right (at a moderate speed) while your under the front bumper.

Things to look at while wheels are being steered:

Trac-Bar bushings - any movement at the joints? Replace

Pitman arm ball joint - if pitman arm is moving and the "tie-rod end" is trying to catch up. Replace pitman arm ball joint.

Steering box - look for "sloppy" movement at the steering box shaft, also look at the universal joint on the steering shaft from between the steering wheel to the steering box (some times that joint wears out and will make it feel like as you described. Replace steering box or universal joint on steering shaft.

Tie rod ends - (with truck off wheels straight) grab the linkage and see if you can twist the tie rods, if yes? Replace tie rod end(s).

Ball joints - slightly jack one tire up at a time get tire up high enough to get a pry bar under the tire and have helper lift up and down on it, while you look for excessive movement (should be very little to almost no movement, up or down at the joint) in the upper and/or lower ball joints. Replace ball joints. (although I doubt ball joints are causing "wander" they are more likely to give (besides odd tire wear)you some vibration and/or a banging sound over pavement cracks and telescope up to the steering wheel.


His Ram ball joints will have up and down movement even with new joints. It's the type of joints they are.
2016 Ram 3500 Mega Cab Limited/2013 Ram 3500 SRW Cummins(sold)/2005 RAM 2500 Cummins/2011 Sandpiper 345 RET (sold) 2015 Sanibel 3601/2008 Nitro Z9 Mercury 250 PRO XS the best motor made.

DirtyOil
Explorer
Explorer
As many would agree, sometimes the so-called experts miss something or another for what ever reason (we all have the odd bad day). Here's a few things you can do yourself.

If your able and can get down under the truck's front end, and you have a helper, here are few things to look at.

Have your helper, with truck running, turn the steering left and right (at a moderate speed) while your under the front bumper.

Things to look at while wheels are being steered:

Trac-Bar bushings - any movement at the joints? Replace

Pitman arm ball joint - if pitman arm is moving and the "tie-rod end" is trying to catch up. Replace pitman arm ball joint.

Steering box - look for "sloppy" movement at the steering box shaft, also look at the universal joint on the steering shaft from between the steering wheel to the steering box (some times that joint wears out and will make it feel like as you described. Replace steering box or universal joint on steering shaft.

Tie rod ends - (with truck off wheels straight) grab the linkage and see if you can twist the tie rods, if yes? Replace tie rod end(s).

Ball joints - slightly jack one tire up at a time get tire up high enough to get a pry bar under the tire and have helper lift up and down on it, while you look for excessive movement (should be very little to almost no movement, up or down at the joint) in the upper and/or lower ball joints. Replace ball joints. (although I doubt ball joints are causing "wander" they are more likely to give (besides odd tire wear)you some vibration and/or a banging sound over pavement cracks and telescope up to the steering wheel.
2013 RAM 3500 CTD Crew 4x4 Laramie
2014 Sprinter Copper Canyon 269FWRLS

GUTS GLORY RAM

safn1949
Explorer
Explorer
My 99 2wd dually wanders a bit,combination of frame flex and the old style steering box. New tires helped a lot as did a complete front end rebuild,I am definitely going to look at that frame kit.

The 4x4 tends to be worse as the frame and trac bar really flex,I had that problem on my 78 Bronco,new bushings cured it but on the dodge as some have said heavy duty trac bar and frame brace will be a big help.

beergardens
Explorer
Explorer
As mentioned, the ball joints seem a bit suspect to me. These trucks don't like Moog ball joints; they are often too tight and cause poor steering returnability to center, which causes the sensation you describe. The OEM aren't a bad choice once people realize a small amount of axial end play is normal and desirable. There is a wear spec on many ball joints and it should be followed instead of simply replacing a joint because it shows some end play.

transamz9
Explorer
Explorer
Megadesertdiesel wrote:
the dodge front end is notorious for slop. between tie rod ends, steering box, trac bar ends and the trac bar bolt holes in the frame all of that adds up and you get wonder.

best is to upgrade to the 08 and newer steering,add a steering box brace, and go with a Thuren tracbar with bigger bolts.


My 05 is tight with all original parts except ball joints.
2016 Ram 3500 Mega Cab Limited/2013 Ram 3500 SRW Cummins(sold)/2005 RAM 2500 Cummins/2011 Sandpiper 345 RET (sold) 2015 Sanibel 3601/2008 Nitro Z9 Mercury 250 PRO XS the best motor made.

Megadesertdiese
Explorer
Explorer
the dodge front end is notorious for slop. between tie rod ends, steering box, trac bar ends and the trac bar bolt holes in the frame all of that adds up and you get wonder.

best is to upgrade to the 08 and newer steering,add a steering box brace, and go with a Thuren tracbar with bigger bolts.