Advice for new TV

[skwab]

Hi everyone, just wanted to get some thoughts- we have a keystone passport 3050bh - 7400lbs fully loaded, 605lb hitch weight. Currently have towed it a couple of times (not fully loaded but likely around 6500lbs) with a yukon xl 1500 and a weight distribution hitch- towing capacity 7100lbs, max payload 1592. Family of 4.

So as you might imagine we're looking for a new TV. Test drove an 2014 silverado 1500 and really liked it, and a 2500 duramax which was alot of truck. So my question is the age old half ton vs. 3/4 ton. The GM 1500s with the max tow package will be much better on capacity and a little better on payload - will that be enough? Or should I really consider the 3/4 ton? For everyday driving the 1/2 ton will be more comfortable, but for towing the 3/4 ton diesel will perform better, but would the 3/4 be overkill for our setup? we'll tow an average of 8-12 weekends a year at most. Thanks!

[CWSWine]

I posted this early and maybe this will help you.

I went from towing a 7000lbs TT with a Chevy 1500 5.3 to 8600lbs 5er with Chevy 2500 diesel.
The Chevy 1500 pulled the TT on level ground or rolling hills just fine, I had WDH and even large trucks passing didn’t affect the towing. I was getting between 9 and 11 towing and it would drop to 8 when I hit the hilly country. I took a trip to Arkansas and ended up going to Branson, Mo from the south has a lot hills in the 7 and 8 percent range. The Chevy 1500 would hit 5000 RPM and drop from 62mph to 40mph on some the hills and even down shifting going down the hills I had use the brakes quite a bit to maintain a safe speed.
I took the same the trip with the 2500 and 5er with a much difference experience. On the same hills I would leave the 2500 in tow mode and cruise control and only drop 3 miles per hour going up the same hills. Going down the hills the exhaust brake would kick in and even on the steepest hill I would only gain 3 miles per hour without touching the brakes. On the steepest hills the 2500-drop to 4th gear and RPM climb to 2200 and going down hills the RPM would like close to 2500 RPM. In the hills the MPG would drop to 10 to 11 but on just rolling hills I would get 12.5 to 13.5 and the truck get 21 to 23 highway and 14.5 to 15.5 city when not towing.
My personnel conclusion is that a 1500 will tow the correctly matched up TT just fine but if you want to be happy towing with a ½ ton truck never tow ¾ ton and don’t ever tow with diesel because you will never go back. I don’t know if this just a feeling or fact but I did feel more in control and safer towing with the 2500 and felt like I had better braking.

[dave17352]

skwab wrote:
So on your advice we found a Ford dealer open today and test drove a '13 F250 diesel. With the incentives Ford are offering on '13s it looks like we can get a well equipped F250 Lariat for not much more than a '14 Silverado with the 6.2 since they are only going to initially offer it in the higher end LTZ / Denali trims!

The F250 was surprisingly smooth and quiet - more comfortable than the Chevy 2500 and it was easier to drive than the chevy we test drove - much easier to live with day to day. But from everything I've read and what you all have reinforced, it seems like going with a 1/2 ton could possibly work, but can't really go wrong with a 3/4 ton and have some capacity down the road if things change
Thanks for the input guys.

you wrote
it seems like going with a 1/2 ton could possibly work, but can't really go wrong with a 3/4 ton and have some capacity down the road if things change

Could not agree with you more. Of course I would go with the SRW 3500 just for a little more room for future options, but that's just me.

[skwab]

So on your advice we found a Ford dealer open today and test drove a '13 F250 diesel. With the incentives Ford are offering on '13s it looks like we can get a well equipped F250 Lariat for not much more than a '14 Silverado with the 6.2 since they are only going to initially offer it in the higher end LTZ / Denali trims!

The F250 was surprisingly smooth and quiet - more comfortable than the Chevy 2500 and it was easier to drive than the chevy we test drove - much easier to live with day to day. But from everything I've read and what you all have reinforced, it seems like going with a 1/2 ton could possibly work, but can't really go wrong with a 3/4 ton and have some capacity down the road if things change. Thanks for the input guys.

[Need-A-Vacation]

I would suggest the 2500HD!!! We just upgraded from a Chevy '10 1500 ccsb 4x4 to a '13 2500HD gasser for the reason of the low payload of the 1500. We were just over the gvwr when loaded with 4 bikes in the bed by about 200lbs- but under axle ratings! Weight adds up quick!

The other big question is do you NEED the D-max? Or would the 6.0L gasser work for you? Towing you would be fine with the 6.0, but not sure how much mileage wise you drive the truck not towing. The D-max will get you a little better mpg's, but it is another $8k up front! Main reason we stayed with the 6.0 since we don't drive the truck very much not towing. Had 31k mi on our '10 in 39 months when we bought the 2500HD.

Now to really throw a curve ball, do you see a new/bigger trailer in your near future? If so, look inot a srw 3500. From what I found with the Chevy, if the options are the same, a 3500 is actually CHEAPER than the 2500!!!! Main reason is because the hitch pkg and tow mirrors are standard on the 3500! It was only about $300 less, but still surprising! Just not sure how a 3500 would ride unloaded compared to the 2500, or if you could find the truck optioned the way you would want (without ordering it!!!) in a 3500. We couldn't, so it was 2500 all the way!

Also, without actual weights of your trailer, it sounds like you are in a similar position as we were. !500 not enough, but really a 2500 (with current trailer) was a little more than we needed. If GM still had the 1500HD I think that would have been perfect for us, but oh well!!! As to the 1500 max tow pkg, it is hard to say just what the actual payload will be with that truck. I know for my '10 we had, it would have added 300lbs to the payload capacity, minus what the extra weight it added. Our 1500 had a payload of 1550lbs, so maybe it would have been 1750-1800lbs or so. May have been just enough, but now we don't have to worry about it (new truck payload is 2750lbs (until maybe a new trailer is hooked up!!! Lol)).

Good luck deciding!!!
Chris

[love2rvcamp]

The website limits are always on the low side since they do not include any add on weights, propane tanks, WDH weights etc. The calculation of 10-15% is the closest to the actual number with out actully weighing.

We just upgraded from a 1/2 ton (f150) to a F250 6.2 gasser. We didn't want a diesel and this has been a perfect fit for towing the trailer and as a daily driving vehiche around Atlanta.

I would consider the 3/4 ton if I were in your shoes.

[skwab]

Thanks for the replies guys - Kevin - I got the weights off the manufacturers website - I haven't taken it to a scale yet.

[ktosv]

Is your tongue weight calculated or did you get it from weighing it?

Our 2910 has an axle weight of about 6400# and tongue weight of 820# (from a CAT scale). Having towed our trailer with a 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton and a 1 ton I would recommend a 3/4 or 1 ton. The ride and handling is night and day difference.

[sail2liv]

bigger bigger and more bigger is always better.....plus longer wheel base is better....so biggest you can get with crew cab and 8 ft bed....good luck

[texasclarks]

There is always a Suburban 2500. Great TV for the TT and very family friendly.

[NWKomfort350]

Your hitch weight should be much higher. Your hitch weight should be 10-15% of your fully loaded trailer weight. 7400lbs @ 10% = 740 lbs. 7400lbs @ 15% = 1,110lbs. Also, your wdh will weigh 90lbs. So, add those with your family weight dressed. Dont forget anything you travel with inside tv. If your under payload, on the truck you prefer (1500 or 2500) perfect.