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Buy Truck First or Used RV First??

RedFishBlueFish
Explorer
Explorer
Hi. I'm sure this has been discussed, and I have searched and found some information, but here goes.

I am about to retire, sell my house, hit the road, and become a full time RVer. I am single but will be taking an 80 pound lab with me. The layouts of the fifth wheels seem best suited for single individuals. So, Iโ€™m thinking about a 25-30 ft fifth wheel. Since this lifestyle will be new to me, I have no idea how long I will want to stay in it. For this reason I do not want a new RV which would cost me a bundle to sell in 6 months if I am unsuited to the life. So, Iโ€™m thinking of a relatively cheap RV, in the $10,000 range. This puts me in a 2004-2011 used fifth wheel RV in the 8,000 to 16,000 pound range. Iโ€™m looking for a truck in the $30,000 range. Not much cheaper because (1) the big three all upgraded towing capacities around 2010-2012 and I canโ€™t get the CVWR, GVWR, or rear GAWR to provide the cushion I want if I get a 3/4 or 1 ton truck made before 2010 and (2) I want a diesel as I plan to spend a considerable amount of time in the mountains. So, Iโ€™m looking at 2011 and newer F250s or F350s or 2500HD Chevy or comparable 2500/3500 Rams. I prefer SRW to DRW and am leaning toward 4WD although not stuck on that idea. I can find these kind of trucks in reasonably good condition (even certified) for about $30K depending on mileage, etc.

So, hereโ€™s my question (sorry for the long introduction), most people say buy the RV first, then buy the proper tow vehicle. And I can see this if you are buying a $60K RV or even a $30K RV. But, if I am going to sink 75% of my money in the truck, shouldnโ€™t I buy the truck first and then find an RV to fit the truck?

(One thing I am struggling with is matching the truck and RV hitch heights. People flipping axels, removing truck lifts, lifting RVs, denting their side rails, etc. Seems like this might be easier to evaluate once I have the truck. Although it took me a while, I finally have figured out the towing capacity stuff. It was a lot to learn, but now if I can get the data, I know how to buy a RV and truck that will be within the axel and tow limits. And I can see from reading these forums that a lot of folks are pushing or exceeding those limits. I just donโ€™t feel comfortable doing that. I want some cushion or safety margin on the limits. So here too, knowing the capacity of the truck helps me pick the proper RV.)

Thanks, in advance, for your comments and suggestions on this. If this seems a totally stupid idea, please tell me so!
30 REPLIES 30

C-Bears
Explorer
Explorer
If you are certain you will stay in that shorter FW range, then I would find my 1-ton truck first. After getting the truck then start a search for a gently used fiver.

We had really good luck on Craig's List with our first used fiver. Had to go one state away to get the "right" one.

Good luck with your search.
2014 Montana 3725RL (Goodyear G614 Tires, Flow Thru TPMS)

SPENDING THE WINTERS AT OUR HOME IN SW FLORIDA. THE REST OF THE YEAR SEEING THE U.S. FROM OUR LIVING ROOM WINDOW!

LarryJM
Explorer II
Explorer II
I will give you an alternative view on whether to get 4x4 or not. While 4x4 is reasonable for some I would contend it might not be cost effective for a mostly dedicated 5er tower. Also, since you don't have a strict schedule to keep for like work you have the luxury of not traveling when and where 4x4 would be needed.

Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL

APT
Explorer
Explorer
The order doesn't matter too much. You can buy an RV first, but if you have no truck to pull it, what's the point? It is wise to plan the size of both at the same time so you have enough truck to be comfortable. Skip the 3/4 ton diesels and SWR1-ton minimum. Since you are full timing, I highly recommend looking again at a dualy. You will carry a lot of stuff. Pick your RV size based on a floorplan you like as well as what kind of campsites you will fit in. There are sites for 45' motorhomes and sites for only 15' popups, but rarely both in the same campground.
A & A parents of DD 2005, DS1 2007, DS2 2009
2011 Suburban 2500 6.0L 3.73 pulling 2011 Heartland North Trail 28BRS
2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R
2x 2023 Chevrolet Bolt EUV (Gray and Black Twins)

RedFishBlueFish
Explorer
Explorer
Your responses have been very helpful. Thanks a bunch.

monkey44
Nomad II
Nomad II
Lanerd:: "Monkey, the OP is talking 5th wheels...not TTs...so there's no ball connection to worry about."


Yes, I knew that, even mentioned 5'er ... I was taking about lowering the connector in the bed where the ball-type fitting drops into the bracket. There are different ways to make that lower - via the way it sits in the bed or the truck itself is lower to the ground. But I'm unfamiliar with the way 5'er hubs connect ... so just suggested to him to see the variety of ways that can be done and then make a choice.

For example, if he gets a flat-bed, and builds his own sides, it can be lower than the Ford he's looking at (high bed rails) ... or, other methods to lower the truck, or raise the entire trailer. He has to find out which way suits his driving style. Hope that clarifies a bit ... ๐Ÿ™‚ M44
Monkey44
Cape Cod Ma & Central Fla
Chevy 2500HD 4x4 DC-SB
2008 Lance 845
Back-country camping fanatic

therink
Explorer
Explorer
From my experience, I second the suggestions of a late model 1 ton SRW. That will suit any fifth wheel with a gvwr of 14k or less.
4wd? It's a matter of choice but where I live I wouldn't be without it. You never know.
Most fifth wheel rvs 2010 or newer will have the proper pin height to ride level with all stock 2012 and newer HD trucks. The bed rail height on most late model HD trucks is around 59". In my case (see signature) I have 6 to 8 inch bedrail clearance with my fiver.
If using full time, I recommend a fiver suited for 4 season living and higher R values and dual pane wimdows. This will make the rig much more comfortable in extreme Temps and less costly to heat/cool. The upfront cost and weights are higher but are generally better built as well.
Steve Rinker
Rochester, NY
2013 Keystone Sydney 340FBH 5th Wheel, 12,280 lbs loaded (scale)
2015.5 GMC Sierra Denali 3500, SRW, Duramax, CC, Payload 3,700 (sticker- not scaled yet)

Take my posts for what they are, opinions based on my own experiences.

donn0128
Explorer II
Explorer II
Never ever consider 2500 variant if your towing a fiver. Just not enough capacity. A 3500 series truck may in fact be cheaper to buy used. If you think the life style might be right for you get a 3500 find what you like in a used trailer and go. If your prudent shopper you might end up zero sum I'd you trade within a year to a larger unit. Our last fiver ended up as our last fiver. 10 years and we're still pleased with the floor plan. We're not full timers but do spend a month at a time out. Personally 36 feet is about right for two adults and our 85 pound rescue. But if DW was no longer around I would not go smaller.

lanerd
Explorer II
Explorer II
Monkey, the OP is talking 5th wheels...not TTs...so there's no ball connection to worry about.

Redfish...I agree with others, a one ton is the way to go and will cover just about anything you want to tow. You may have to have the trailer's axle/springs reversed to get the necessary clearance but I highly doubt it.

When purchasing any truck other than the 1 ton, I would recommend getting the trailer first and matching the truck....but if you get the truck first, I would ONLY go with a 1 ton to make sure I could pull/carry almost anything.

Good luck

Ron
Ron & Sandie
2013 Tiffin Phaeton 42LH Cummins ISL 400hp
Toad: 2011 GMC Terrain SLT2
Tow Bar: Sterling AT
Toad Brakes: Unified by U.S. Gear
TPMS: Pressure Pro
Member of: GS, FMCA, Allegro


RETIRED!! How sweet it is....

korbe
Explorer
Explorer
I don't think it matters which you buy first, but to understand the limits and capacities of the different trucks is key, IMHO. While you're looking at RV's, you will know what would be necessary to pull it, and while looking at trucks, you will know what it will pull.
.

monkey44
Nomad II
Nomad II
Not an easy learning process, but you came to the right place. Weed thru the answers to find what suits you. Lots if different experience will lead to various answers and options. Most of it is good advice under certain circumstances, and you'll have to sort thru these to see what fits you and your goals.

I've no experience with 5'ers, so will fall off on that one. But will say you will never go wrong with a 4x4 ... resale, situations you don't expect, much better traction when backing in or departing some campsites (some are pull-thru, but not all) You'll never regret 4x4 unless you don't have it, and need it. It only takes once.

There are various ways to adjust the height of the ball connection -- once you get more into the choices available to you, you can make an informed decision about which one will fit your driving style.

Take your time, get all the info first, and don't believe much of what a truck salesman says (some are good, some are not) but many do not know about trucks and towing, they know about truck sales.

Educate yourself in both areas, and you'll have a great time on the road.
Monkey44
Cape Cod Ma & Central Fla
Chevy 2500HD 4x4 DC-SB
2008 Lance 845
Back-country camping fanatic

RedFishBlueFish
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks for your replies and advice.

I'm looking at a 2012 F350 4WD 6.7 diesel. It has the towing power for the size 5ers I'm looking at. But, being ignorant about most of this, I'm seeing where this Ford is so high off the ground, and the side walls so high, that the RVs pull nose up even after the hitch and king pin are adjusted or, even worse, people are denting the side walls in certain situations. People are addressing this by flipping the axels, elevating the RV, lowering the truck (some of these mods seem OK, some not so OK), and other ways. I'm also seeing that the king pin heights vary by RV. This has been pretty difficult to sort out. Apparently, the 2WDs sit lower and fit most RVs better.

I'm definately a novice here. We have a 2008 F250 diesel at work and pull a trailer with it, but it is a bumper pull and the trailer is less than 10,000 pounds. So that experience doesn't help me much.

dave17352
Explorer
Explorer
I agree with a 1 ton SRW, forget the 3/4 tons. You will just spend the money to upgrade to a 1 ton capacity. I also believe you should get the 4*4. If you don't like the life style it will be easier to sell. Where I live 4*4 is almost a must in the winter. Nothing more pathetic than a two wheel drive pickup with no cargo on trying to get around in ice and snow! I can see you buying the truck first as long as you buy a 1 ton, I just can't see you having a problem with capacity. I would also think if you buy your 5th wheel in the 2005 to 2011 range you shouldn't have a big problem with bed height. Of course if you have the truck you can check it out before you buy. JMHO
NOW 2017 Leprechaun 260ds
2005 Forrest River Cardinal 29rkle FW
1998 Lance 980 11'3" TC
2017 CHEVY 3500 SRW 6.0
B@W turnover ball @ companion Hitch
Honda eu3000 generator mounted on cargo rack
Crestliner 1850 Fish Ski boat mostly fishing now!

BB_TX
Nomad
Nomad
I agree with above to get an F350 or 3500 SRW. Those will be more than enough for the size you mention, and many 5ers even longer. 4 wheel drive is a very personal thing and relates directly to your driving style and location. I have 4 wheel drive mainly because it is hard to find a 2 wheel drive F350 equipped with all I wanted. But in 8 years of towing the 5er I have never used 4 wheel drive while towing. I have used it a number of times getting into and out of our hunting camp, and a few times when we have had snow and/or ice, so it does come in handy at times.

IdaD
Explorer
Explorer
I would strongly advise 4wd for this scenario (emphasis on the word strongly). You'll be completely dependent on this truck and need it to be functional in case you run into unexpected adverse conditions.
2015 Cummins Ram 4wd CC/SB

transferred
Explorer
Explorer
Buy a SRW Ram 3500, GM 3500HD or F-350 and then there's a 99.99% you'll be good for the 25-30' trailer you decide to buy by all weight parameters from RAWR to GVWR to GCWR. I recommend always staying within these when on public hwys.

Happy shopping the big three make great trucks, just remember Ram got a new frame in 2013 and GM in 2011 so I'd go the newer side respectively of those two model years.

You don't need a dually unless you're going to trailer has a GVWR of more than 17,000lbs.
05 Ram 3500 SRW QCSB Laramie 4x4 Cummins, 610lbs, 23k GC, 9.9k GV
(totaled) 16 Ram 3500 SRW RCLB SLT 4X4 Cummins Aisin, 900lbs, 25.3k GC, 11.5k GV
06 F550 4x4 PSD, 570lbs, 33k GC, 19.5k GV