RAMwoodworks,
Fordlover is spot on and add that it not just the frontal area...
Think of standing on a flatbed and then lift up a 4'x8' sheet of plywood with
a rope attached...you'd be lifted and flown like a kite...
The other and bigger issue: the ability of the TV to manhandle the trailer
and whole setup during that day(s) when Mr Murphy crosses your path
Either you have the right sized everything or not...spot on...no time to
go back to the store for bigger/better/etc...nor time to re-setup the WD Hitch system
Just like the OP and the dealer letting them go test tow...the dealer knows
just about anything 'can tow' it on the good days (the Shuttle
'can' be towed, but for how long...how will it 'manhandle' it
during a bad day, etc) by a half ton
My personal risk management decision (AKA gambling) is to have as much safety
margin as I can afford...or do NOT tow it. My family, self, etc is worth
more than to make this kind of gamble with
Too many only think of and/or recommend 'go' power and ignore why
there are dialed in design margins by the OEMs
Manhandling is performance at that worst instance out there. Braking
is just a part of 'manhandling' and again, too many asking and
providing advice ignore these attributes...
-Ben
Picture of my rig1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...