Dodge Ram Charging Line

[phishheadmi]

Hello,

Have a question about my 2013 Dodge Ram.

I have the tow package, which according to my salesman and the service manager, has a charging line to the 7 pin connector to charge the battery on my TT.

I'm not getting a charge, so I asked about it last week while I had the truck in for an oil change...service manager looked at it and told me it was a blown fuse, but they didn't have the correct replacement size. I told him no problem, I'd just swing into an auto parts store and grab one...which I did yesterday. As I was removing the old fuse, I thought to myself "boy, this doesn't look blown" but I figured I'd replace it anyway in case it was blown and just not visible. Much to my chagrin, the new fuse did not correct my problem. Now, I'm leaving on about an 800 mile trip with the TT and have no battery charging from the TV. Of course, the dealer can't get me in until a week from tomorrow. What can I troubleshoot on my own to get this charge line working? Any suggestions? Thanks!

Oh, also, for anyone uber-familiar with the 2013 Dodge Ram, I have the large in dash touch screen that the back up cam uses, but no back up cam. is this something I can likely add inexpensively? Is there an aftermarket cam that would hook into my display?

Thanks again.

[Perrysburg_Dodg]

Look in the fuss box under the hood and see if the fuss is there. Mine was not from the factory and the RV shop found it when I came back complaining about the battery going dead all the time.

Don

[RamRider]

Leaving a trailer plugged in to our 2013 Ram 1500 overnight will drain the truck battery. I experienced this while pulling our daughters popup (as a favor) which apparently had a defective battery. Dealer tech told me that the line is always hot when plugged in. I have not had this issue when plugged into our 2013 Bullet.

[bucky]

Gee, the old owners manual trick. Ya think that's why they they print them? Good on you for looking. It always amazes me the number of allegedly trained techs and writers at dealerships that don't know Richard about towing. What do they think these trucks are for?

[Majja13]

What is the other issue he is saying is normal. I do not
Think I would trust him.

[phishheadmi]

So...funny story...kind of.

I pulled out my manual to try and locate the relay in the fuse box as mentioned above. I decided I better double check that the fuse I replaced was the right one. Sure enough, the fuse the service mgr at my dealer told me was the problem, a 40A green fuse(I know I had the one he showed me because I snapped a pic of it) has nothing to do with the 7 pin connector! I figured out which fuse was for the charge line, found it (a 30A pink fuse, which was blown) replaced it (pulled the same fuse from the rear window defrost which I don't have) and I'm good to go!

Kind of makes me wonder if I should trust the same guy's diagnosis of the other issue I was having as "normal".

Thanks again for the suggestions everyone.

[john_bet]

So you are saying you had no voltage between the pin at one o'clock(+) and the pin at 7 o'clock(-). If so, then it is in the wiring harness some where or a bad connection on the back of the connecter. Suggest you pull the fuse, put a jumper between + and - of connector then go to fuse box with your meter and check for continuity between frame the the lug of the fuse that does not show voltage to the - of the battery. If no continuity then the charge line is broken or the - is not connected to the truck frame good at the back of the truck. I doubt that they run the - all the way back to the battery. Just my thoughts.

[phishheadmi]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I should have mentioned I did meter the 7 pin connector and it was zilch. One nice thing is that they have the schematic embossed right on the plug cover (why didn't someone think of that sooner?) so it's easy to tell which plug is what. I did have the truck running when I tested it.

NChauler, I do have the 8.4" uconnect in dash information/radio whatever...I hate it, it's like touchscreen technology from 10 years ago. Why are automobile manufacturers so woefully lacking in consumer technology? Anyway, I have that, but not the backup cam or sensors. It's a 2013 (early year, not the 8 speed) ram bighorn edition. I had no idea ram wasn't dodge any more, lol.

So, now I'm off to locate and check that relay, thanks again everyone!

[retispcsi]

First did you put a meter on the 7 pin connector and see if you have a hot connection there if you do then the problem is in the trailer. That could be a bad ground, bad plug, bad cord or even a dead battery. If you do not have a hot connection and fuse is good, check the relay which should be a square little fuse. If all that is good go under the truck and make sure the connections are ok. I have had this issue before. One time the battery was dead and needed to be replaced and the other the fuse was blown. Good luck.

[FLY_4_FUN]

are you sure that the 30a fuse on your trailer isn't blown?

Daryll

[ScottG]

Your "RAM" (not Dodge) should always be hot. If it's not the fuse then there's another problem and it's time to get the dealer involved.

[ChooChooMan74]

Not sure about Ram Trucks (Split from Dodge in 2009),but did you have the key on when you checked for voltage? Are you checking the correct pin?

[RoyB]

My 2010 Ford has the fuse plus a relay in that circuit. The ignition key has to be on before charge voltages goes back to the trailer battery. Don't know if Dodge does it this way or not...

Both the FUSE and the RELAY is in the same up front fuse panel. My manual calls both of these items TRAILER TOW...

When I first got my 2010 Ford truck both this fuse and the relay was in a unmarked plastic zip bag in the glove box with no instruction as to what they were for.

Roy Ken

[NC_Hauler]

What 2013 model do you have? Are you saying you have the 8.4 Uconnect big screen in dash information/radio set up? Did your truck come with the back up camera and back up sensors?


Might need more information...Sounds like something may have to be re-wired in your connector on your truck, or the one coming from your rv to charge your battery. One would think that your Ram/Chrysler dealer would have schematic for the connector on the truck to see which wire, if any, charges your battery..it would help with a re-wire.