Exhaust filter

[joe_puma]

I have my 2011 duramax, 60K miles in the second time in a month for the cleaning exhaust filter message coming on and not going out. First time they said it needed a manual regen. Cost me $300. Don't know this time yet. Anyone else have this problem? What did you have to have done? Anyone have the DEF and the exhaust filter removed and a different tuner put on? If so what did you get and how has it worked. Any other thoughts?
Thanks.

[sparechange]

I did the delete on my 09 and couldn't be happier. Cost wasn't bad and only took a few hours to do my self. Worst part was fishing the wire for my tuner (efi live with dsp5 switch) through the firewall. My lmm is different than your lml and there is a ton to read about doing the delete. I usually drive with the 90 hp tune and have about 25,000 miles on the delete with no problems, smoke or exhaust smell.

[N-Trouble]

Huntindog wrote:

N-Trouble wrote:

FishOnOne wrote:

Huntindog wrote:

FishOnOne wrote:

N-Trouble wrote:

The_real_wild1 wrote:
A regen with take about 40 miles. Any time is is stopped it will have to restart again. Go out on the highway and watch your mileage. During a regen the mileage should suck compared to what it normally is. Once the region is done the mileage will go back to normal.

As for your other question doing a delete is ok as long as you don't have any warranty left. You can bump up the power as well but then you will have to do upgrades as well including head studs and pump. Most will delete the egr as well. If your under warranty still this will void it. Go onto the duramax forums and do some research for more info.

1) Regens are time based (~30min) not mileage based on 2011+ Dmax trucks.

2) Head studs are not needed on a Dmax if running stock turbo. Its not a 6.0 Powerjoke...

Wow... If I had to drive ~30 min to complete a regen I think I would dump that truck. Mine completes a regen ~10 miles. And if I stop during a regen it will not restart the next time I drive the truck, but rather it will go a shorter distance before the next regen.

They are NOT time based... It least not primarily.
They go by reduction in soot levels. If your partial drive reduces the soot level by enough, it will not restart the regen on the next drive... The next regen will just happen sooner as it will achieve max soot level sooner. Doing this time after time is what can cause trouble, such as mandatory regen drives to totally burn off the soot.

Well said....

But wrong...

Once the regen STARTS it IS time based in order to complete. Soot level readings during regen are not accurate due to elevated temperature of the differential pressure sensor used to calculate "soot grams". If you have a Edge CTS monitor you can disconnect the differential pressure sensor when regen starts yet soot levels will continue to drop. How is that if the differential pressure sensor is disconnected??? Its because soot grams are simply theoretical values based on TIME the truck has been in regen. Once the tegen process is over and the diff pressure sensor cools soot grams are based on actual measured values. This is why some will see soot grams jump up right after regen completes.

As for comparing regen times/frequency between Ford and GM its "six in one, half dozen in the other". GMs have a longer but less frequent regen process. At the end of the day they probably work out to similar amount of time in regen.

Impossible. My regen "times" are all over the map...
It seems to be related to temperture. Here in AZ it gets really hot, 115 is not uncommon. Regen times are noticably shorter then. If towing in high heat, then even shorter.... So something is being monitored, and it is not the clock.

Its time at regen temperature. Yes many factors can affect ramp time but its time AT temp.

[Paul_Clancy]

There is active Regen where the truck burns fuel to clean the dpf via 9th injector and there is passive Regen where the truck is towing / hot enough for the dpf to bake off on its own.

[Huntindog]

N-Trouble wrote:

FishOnOne wrote:

Huntindog wrote:

FishOnOne wrote:

N-Trouble wrote:

The_real_wild1 wrote:
A regen with take about 40 miles. Any time is is stopped it will have to restart again. Go out on the highway and watch your mileage. During a regen the mileage should suck compared to what it normally is. Once the region is done the mileage will go back to normal.

As for your other question doing a delete is ok as long as you don't have any warranty left. You can bump up the power as well but then you will have to do upgrades as well including head studs and pump. Most will delete the egr as well. If your under warranty still this will void it. Go onto the duramax forums and do some research for more info.

1) Regens are time based (~30min) not mileage based on 2011+ Dmax trucks.

2) Head studs are not needed on a Dmax if running stock turbo. Its not a 6.0 Powerjoke...

Wow... If I had to drive ~30 min to complete a regen I think I would dump that truck. Mine completes a regen ~10 miles. And if I stop during a regen it will not restart the next time I drive the truck, but rather it will go a shorter distance before the next regen.

They are NOT time based... It least not primarily.
They go by reduction in soot levels. If your partial drive reduces the soot level by enough, it will not restart the regen on the next drive... The next regen will just happen sooner as it will achieve max soot level sooner. Doing this time after time is what can cause trouble, such as mandatory regen drives to totally burn off the soot.

Well said....

But wrong...

Once the regen STARTS it IS time based in order to complete. Soot level readings during regen are not accurate due to elevated temperature of the differential pressure sensor used to calculate "soot grams". If you have a Edge CTS monitor you can disconnect the differential pressure sensor when regen starts yet soot levels will continue to drop. How is that if the differential pressure sensor is disconnected??? Its because soot grams are simply theoretical values based on TIME the truck has been in regen. Once the tegen process is over and the diff pressure sensor cools soot grams are based on actual measured values. This is why some will see soot grams jump up right after regen completes.

As for comparing regen times/frequency between Ford and GM its "six in one, half dozen in the other". GMs have a longer but less frequent regen process. At the end of the day they probably work out to similar amount of time in regen.

Impossible. My regen "times" are all over the map...
It seems to be related to temperture. Here in AZ it gets really hot, 115 is not uncommon. Regen times are noticably shorter then. If towing in high heat, then even shorter.... So something is being monitored, and it is not the clock.

[Grit_dog]

joe puma wrote:
Thanks for the input, I will check both my factory and extended warranty. This time he tells me they didn't find anything. All sensors and everything is working since it is all monitored when they do the manual regen. Of course they didn't try to charge me, and we'll have to see if it happens next time. I still think its something in a computer, never had this issue before.
Thinking of writing to GM, both about the warranty and a dealer that really knows how to work on diesels.
Thanks again.

At least they're working with you.
You'd still be better served to check out this issue on a duramax forum. Bet there's a bunch of reading to help you sift through or understand what's going on.
May find a reference for a dealer good w diesels if you think yours isn't.

[N-Trouble]

FishOnOne wrote:

Huntindog wrote:

FishOnOne wrote:

N-Trouble wrote:

The_real_wild1 wrote:
A regen with take about 40 miles. Any time is is stopped it will have to restart again. Go out on the highway and watch your mileage. During a regen the mileage should suck compared to what it normally is. Once the region is done the mileage will go back to normal.

As for your other question doing a delete is ok as long as you don't have any warranty left. You can bump up the power as well but then you will have to do upgrades as well including head studs and pump. Most will delete the egr as well. If your under warranty still this will void it. Go onto the duramax forums and do some research for more info.

1) Regens are time based (~30min) not mileage based on 2011+ Dmax trucks.

2) Head studs are not needed on a Dmax if running stock turbo. Its not a 6.0 Powerjoke...

Wow... If I had to drive ~30 min to complete a regen I think I would dump that truck. Mine completes a regen ~10 miles. And if I stop during a regen it will not restart the next time I drive the truck, but rather it will go a shorter distance before the next regen.

They are NOT time based... It least not primarily.
They go by reduction in soot levels. If your partial drive reduces the soot level by enough, it will not restart the regen on the next drive... The next regen will just happen sooner as it will achieve max soot level sooner. Doing this time after time is what can cause trouble, such as mandatory regen drives to totally burn off the soot.

Well said....

But wrong...

Once the regen STARTS it IS time based in order to complete. Soot level readings during regen are not accurate due to elevated temperature of the differential pressure sensor used to calculate "soot grams". If you have a Edge CTS monitor you can disconnect the differential pressure sensor when regen starts yet soot levels will continue to drop. How is that if the differential pressure sensor is disconnected??? Its because soot grams are simply theoretical values based on TIME the truck has been in regen. Once the tegen process is over and the diff pressure sensor cools soot grams are based on actual measured values. This is why some will see soot grams jump up right after regen completes.

As for comparing regen times/frequency between Ford and GM its "six in one, half dozen in the other". GMs have a longer but less frequent regen process. At the end of the day they probably work out to similar amount of time in regen.

[joe_puma]

Thanks for the input, I will check both my factory and extended warranty. This time he tells me they didn't find anything. All sensors and everything is working since it is all monitored when they do the manual regen. Of course they didn't try to charge me, and we'll have to see if it happens next time. I still think its something in a computer, never had this issue before.
Thinking of writing to GM, both about the warranty and a dealer that really knows how to work on diesels.
Thanks again.

[FishOnOne]

Huntindog wrote:

FishOnOne wrote:

N-Trouble wrote:

The_real_wild1 wrote:
A regen with take about 40 miles. Any time is is stopped it will have to restart again. Go out on the highway and watch your mileage. During a regen the mileage should suck compared to what it normally is. Once the region is done the mileage will go back to normal.

As for your other question doing a delete is ok as long as you don't have any warranty left. You can bump up the power as well but then you will have to do upgrades as well including head studs and pump. Most will delete the egr as well. If your under warranty still this will void it. Go onto the duramax forums and do some research for more info.

1) Regens are time based (~30min) not mileage based on 2011+ Dmax trucks.

2) Head studs are not needed on a Dmax if running stock turbo. Its not a 6.0 Powerjoke...

Wow... If I had to drive ~30 min to complete a regen I think I would dump that truck. Mine completes a regen ~10 miles. And if I stop during a regen it will not restart the next time I drive the truck, but rather it will go a shorter distance before the next regen.

They are NOT time based... It least not primarily.
They go by reduction in soot levels. If your partial drive reduces the soot level by enough, it will not restart the regen on the next drive... The next regen will just happen sooner as it will achieve max soot level sooner. Doing this time after time is what can cause trouble, such as mandatory regen drives to totally burn off the soot.

Well said....

[Huntindog]

FishOnOne wrote:

N-Trouble wrote:

The_real_wild1 wrote:
A regen with take about 40 miles. Any time is is stopped it will have to restart again. Go out on the highway and watch your mileage. During a regen the mileage should suck compared to what it normally is. Once the region is done the mileage will go back to normal.

As for your other question doing a delete is ok as long as you don't have any warranty left. You can bump up the power as well but then you will have to do upgrades as well including head studs and pump. Most will delete the egr as well. If your under warranty still this will void it. Go onto the duramax forums and do some research for more info.

1) Regens are time based (~30min) not mileage based on 2011+ Dmax trucks.

2) Head studs are not needed on a Dmax if running stock turbo. Its not a 6.0 Powerjoke...

Wow... If I had to drive ~30 min to complete a regen I think I would dump that truck. Mine completes a regen ~10 miles. And if I stop during a regen it will not restart the next time I drive the truck, but rather it will go a shorter distance before the next regen.

They are NOT time based... It least not primarily.
They go by reduction in soot levels. If your partial drive reduces the soot level by enough, it will not restart the regen on the next drive... The next regen will just happen sooner as it will achieve max soot level sooner. Doing this time after time is what can cause trouble, such as mandatory regen drives to totally burn off the soot.

[The_real_wild1]

FishOnOne wrote:

N-Trouble wrote:

The_real_wild1 wrote:
A regen with take about 40 miles. Any time is is stopped it will have to restart again. Go out on the highway and watch your mileage. During a regen the mileage should suck compared to what it normally is. Once the region is done the mileage will go back to normal.

As for your other question doing a delete is ok as long as you don't have any warranty left. You can bump up the power as well but then you will have to do upgrades as well including head studs and pump. Most will delete the egr as well. If your under warranty still this will void it. Go onto the duramax forums and do some research for more info.

1) Regens are time based (~30min) not mileage based on 2011+ Dmax trucks.

2) Head studs are not needed on a Dmax if running stock turbo. Its not a 6.0 Powerjoke...

Wow... If I had to drive ~30 min to complete a regen I think I would dump that truck. Mine completes a regen ~10 miles. And if I stop during a regen it will not restart the next time I drive the truck, but rather it will go a shorter distance before the next regen.

And you get 28mpg too I bet.

[FishOnOne]

N-Trouble wrote:

The_real_wild1 wrote:
A regen with take about 40 miles. Any time is is stopped it will have to restart again. Go out on the highway and watch your mileage. During a regen the mileage should suck compared to what it normally is. Once the region is done the mileage will go back to normal.

As for your other question doing a delete is ok as long as you don't have any warranty left. You can bump up the power as well but then you will have to do upgrades as well including head studs and pump. Most will delete the egr as well. If your under warranty still this will void it. Go onto the duramax forums and do some research for more info.

1) Regens are time based (~30min) not mileage based on 2011+ Dmax trucks.

2) Head studs are not needed on a Dmax if running stock turbo. Its not a 6.0 Powerjoke...

Wow... If I had to drive ~30 min to complete a regen I think I would dump that truck. Mine completes a regen ~10 miles. And if I stop during a regen it will not restart the next time I drive the truck, but rather it will go a shorter distance before the next regen.

[Grit_dog]

First figure out your warranty. It's 5/50...7/70 depending on what's wrong.
Second, 2.5-3 hrs shop time to do a regen is robbery, so I'd sort that out before going further w that dealer, unless they did more than that.
Last, in general, LMLs are generally decent preforming emissions systems. No tell what the cause is from here, but they can handle more putting around than the LMM engine emissions. But you still have to drive it long/hard once in a while. These diesel emissions systems aren't completely idiot proof as we would expect with 21st century stuff.
If you can delete it, it will perform flawlessly, like an old pre 08 truck, if emissions testing isn't a concern.
You'll need a private shop not the dealer to do it, if you're not planning on doing it yourself. Check out diesel place.com to learn about deletes.

[N-Trouble]

The_real_wild1 wrote:
A regen with take about 40 miles. Any time is is stopped it will have to restart again. Go out on the highway and watch your mileage. During a regen the mileage should suck compared to what it normally is. Once the region is done the mileage will go back to normal.

As for your other question doing a delete is ok as long as you don't have any warranty left. You can bump up the power as well but then you will have to do upgrades as well including head studs and pump. Most will delete the egr as well. If your under warranty still this will void it. Go onto the duramax forums and do some research for more info.

1) Regens are time based (~30min) not mileage based on 2011+ Dmax trucks.

2) Head studs are not needed on a Dmax if running stock turbo. Its not a 6.0 Powerjoke...

[RinconVTR]

The_real_wild1 wrote:


As for your other question doing a delete is ok as long as you don't have any warranty left.

I mentioned the same to the OP in another forum and the EPA fear mongers came out. Get "reported to the government"...."$500,000 fine"...and on and on.