โMar-10-2016 06:27 AM
โMar-20-2016 10:59 AM
โMar-20-2016 10:37 AM
โMar-20-2016 10:22 AM
Reddog1 wrote:zcookiemonstar wrote:I have very limited knowledge on electricity, but it is my understanding the reverse is true.
... Just remember it's not just the size of the cable. The thinner the strands the more resistance you will have. If you were to use welding cable because it is nice and flexible you will not get as much voltage as with a heavy stranded cable/wire. Sorry don't have a link to prove that.
Wayne
โMar-20-2016 09:51 AM
dmaxpuller wrote:If storage really is a challenge...then the portable makes much more sense; carry when you need to...leave it home when you don't. Don't have that luxury with a built-in.
Totally agree on the gas part. Its just that the one part of TC camping is the storage.
Built in generator, one less thing to haul around. We did that on our last Lance, and using it in wet weather was iffy.
โMar-20-2016 09:35 AM
mbloof wrote:
Personally, I'd go with a Yamaha/Honda 1K or 2K (if you want to run the air) over anything that runs off propane. While a built in generator offers on/off switch simplicity for operating the generator propane can be a limited resource that your heating, cooking, hot water and most importantly the fridge/freezer require for operation.
Where I live propane is not sold at every gas station and a 1 gallon gas can is much easier to fill then the on board propane tanks. When the generator and gas can is empty you'll still be able to use all your propane appliances however if you run out of propane you'll need to refill to use most of the appliances.
โMar-20-2016 08:17 AM
โMar-20-2016 07:56 AM
โMar-18-2016 05:31 AM
โMar-17-2016 11:27 AM
โMar-17-2016 10:56 AM
โMar-17-2016 09:23 AM
HMS Beagle wrote:
With a separate alternator and remote voltage sense, you would not need the large cable. #6 AWG will carry 100 amps safely, but there will be a voltage drop. Remote sense is a separate small wire (#18) running from the battery terminal to the regulator sense input, the regulator increases the voltage output of the alternator until the battery terminal is at the required set point regardless of voltage drop in the charge cable. That system would also regulate the house battery according to its needs exclusively. Equalizing the state of charge between house and start batteries in not really ideal - you do not want to bring the start battery down to the same SOC as a discharged house battery.
How far to go to finesse the system is debatable. People have been camping with a simple #10 wire in their 7 pin harness doing the charging for decades. But there are much better ways available.
โMar-17-2016 09:23 AM
billtex wrote:ticki2 wrote:
http://www.silveradosierra.com/electrical/voltage-fluctuate-on-the-dasboard-meter-t19680.html#p18011...
This may shed some light on the subject , at least as far as GM . Apparently my 02 is too old for this feature . t might also explain why some GM owners are having trouble charging coach batteries from the truck .
thanks Bob...I never knew that!
I stay in T/H most of the time...unless running really flat/long...
Not sure if it matters...but does this apply to gas/diesel or both?
I didn't see in the article.
Tx, Bill
โMar-17-2016 09:01 AM
โMar-17-2016 08:37 AM
zcookiemonstar wrote:I have very limited knowledge on electricity, but it is my understanding the reverse is true.
... Just remember it's not just the size of the cable. The thinner the strands the more resistance you will have. If you were to use welding cable because it is nice and flexible you will not get as much voltage as with a heavy stranded cable/wire. Sorry don't have a link to prove that.
2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda
Toad: 91 Zuke