โDec-28-2015 08:26 PM
โDec-30-2015 01:10 PM
โDec-30-2015 12:03 PM
โDec-30-2015 09:38 AM
2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda
Toad: 91 Zuke
โDec-30-2015 09:24 AM
getpower1 wrote:
As I've been reading through this and seen how adamant everyone is about this subject, I have been reminded of something that I've found out through work. You ever seen a concrete mixer with Super Singles on the two rear axles? It's not a fun piece of equipment to drive, and that's within its weight limits.
โDec-30-2015 09:07 AM
โDec-29-2015 10:19 PM
Vinsil wrote:
Love my upgrade to 19.5's. Made the difference of not trading my truck in for a drw.
Do it, go to 19.5's. skip the new truck.....that X1 doesn't weigh than what I tow with a 42" supertruss....
My next truck will most likely be a drw...unless I swap over my 19.5's...
โDec-29-2015 10:16 PM
Reddog1 wrote:
i have tried too avoid posting on this thread, but decided I should. I do not think the sky is falling. I have to give the following disclaimer, I am not frugal, but I am cheap. I prefer not to argue with people whose only experience is from a couch. However someones rig is setup, it should be in their comfort level and hopefully within their driving skills. I have recently bought a 2004 Ram 4x4 DRW, not because I am dissatisfied with my SRW, but for its creature comforts. I do have higher expectations from the DRW.
I have had my 1996 2WD (6200 lbs), SRW Ram 2500 since 2001, and my 4200 pound (loaded) Bigfoot (11.5 ft) TC since 2004. The 4x4 version of my truck is typically 7000 lbs. I have over 170,000 milers with the TC on my truck. I have made many modifications to my truck over the years, and can state the 19.5 wheels and tires made the most obvious difference. Although I am not a member of the weight police, I am a tire member of the tire capacity police. I had several different tires and one set of different wheels. I was, and am, comfortable with the 1996 Ram. Simply stated, I upgraded the 1996 2500 with a Helwig anti-sway bar, airbags, and the 19.5's. It is my belief, no less than these upgrades is necessary. I do believe that it is very important to pay attention to road conditions as it pertains to braking. I have never had a close call, but I am definitely watchful.
I am reluctant to add the weight a Super Hitch allows. The math for a 48-inch extension takes me beyond my comfort level. I do flat tow a 2900 lb Samurai. It has no tongue weight, but does add to breaking requirements. During the past few months, I have added a brake system to the Samurai, not because I was not comfortable with my trucks braking but because every little bit helps.
Simply stated, I have no problem with your rig with the upgrades I have made. I am a bit uncomfortable with adding the super hitch extension. I really do not think the OEM hitch is up to the job. As I understand, to install a Super Hitch with the typical 24 to 48 inch extension will cost about $2500. Someone with experience can provide exact numbers. Then the question is can the truck handle the extra weight. I think it could, but I would want input from someone that has run that setup.
I am open for discussion on anything I have posted here.
Wayne
โDec-29-2015 09:30 PM
โDec-29-2015 09:10 PM
2004.5 Ram SLT LB 3500 DRW Quad Cab 4x4
1988 Bigfoot (C11.5) TC (1900# w/standard equip. per decal), 130 watts solar, 100 AH AGM, Polar Cub A/C, EU2000i Honda
Toad: 91 Zuke
โDec-29-2015 08:45 PM
getpower1 wrote:
As far as the Happijac tie down system goes...I know what I did to install it. There are a lot of people that have been using it for years and with heavier campers. I drilled the holes into the brackets that are welded to the frame and bolted them in myself. It's a lot more sturdy that the plywood that the eye bolts in the camper are mounted to. I'm more than happy with the way the system is engineered to work.
โDec-29-2015 04:33 PM
โDec-29-2015 02:10 PM
โDec-29-2015 11:40 AM
jimh425 wrote:getpower1 wrote:
"DISASTER"???
Come on bud. The guy who owned the camper before me had the exact same truck as I do to haul it.
You have no way of knowing if the guy who owned it actually used it, or drove really slow and short distances. I think the point was that you are likely significantly overloaded, and there is real risk. Even after spending money you will likely be overloaded for a SRW.
If a DRW will work for you, that's probably the best approach. Still, some of us including myself opted to go with 19.5s on SRWs for a period of time. In my case, a DRW couldn't reasonably go wear I needed to go as my daily driver. Unless you get a screaming deal on 19.5s, you can trade for a DRW probably cheaper.
Have fun!
โDec-29-2015 10:58 AM
getpower1 wrote:
"DISASTER"???
Come on bud. The guy who owned the camper before me had the exact same truck as I do to haul it.
โDec-29-2015 09:56 AM
Getpower1,
The way your truck is SETTING DOWN in rear speaks VOLUMES if you will Listen. Even with air bags and or overloads to level the truck, it is STILL overloaded. You are playing with DISASTER!!!
Your tie downs are still anchored to the BED not the frame - NOT GOOD.
A good welder can build a set of frame tie downs for a third of the cost of Tolklifts. Show him a picture of Tolklifts and see what he can do. Mine did.